Harbor Freight 90 amp flux core wire welder

[wilberweb]

Hey Guys
hope every one had a great holiday...
I bought a Harbor Freight tools 90 amp flux core 110 wire welder over the holidays with my gift cards of course. my question is. Has any one welded a frame clip with this kind of welder is this possible, and also a question on fill welding after I drill out the spot welds to replace the lower rocker panels whats the properer welding for this application? I have heard that for this type of weld they don't recommend flux core, only solid core. whats the difference in welds between this application why can't one use flux core verses solid core. also if it is possible to weld a frame with this kind of inexpensive welder with good results. has any one welded a clip with this welder? and whats the best way to get good results for a frame clip.

Thanks
-Larry

[dicer]

I've not used one. But with that power level only thin materials can be welded, I'd say for a frame 180 amps for a mig. And flux core is not the way to go for mig. You minds well stick weld then.
Flux core will, if your not a welder likely introduce porosity into the weld. Solid wire welders use an inert gas to sheild the molten puddle from oxygen. On the flux type its the flux that flows onto the molten metal to shield it, and can get into it if not hot enough and slow enough.

[Thadious]

As a shipwright in the military, I've been stick welding for the last 25 years (5 as a hobby), TIG'ing for the last 20 and MIG'ing for the last 2 (since I started my project). Everyone of them has it's pro's and cons, but for MIG, here's my experience...

Flux core is good for heavier stuff and when you're welding outside as the shielding gas is produced by the heat of the weld and stays pretty local to the puddle. If you're welding heavier (1/8" to 1/4") you'll find flux core is pretty good, but will leave a slag that you have to clean off. Due to the polarity of the process, if you're trying to weld anything thinner, you'll find the heat generated by the weld will burn holes through most sheet metal and you'll just get frustrated.

Solid core uses an inert type of shielding gas depending on the material being welded. Be it argon, helium, CO2 or another mix, but it's easily blown away when working outside... so "indoors" will be your best bet here. There is no slag to clean off and so you will find that it's much easier to deal with... and you're weld is exactly what it looks like. The polarity of a solid core wire is reversed from the flux core and as such, the weld puddle is cooler and designed for more buildup than penetration (not that MIG has much anyways). As such, it works best for sheet metal welding ( I use 0.024" wire for mine... great control ).

If you're looking at cost... buy your welder once... Personally... I'd recommend a 220v welder but that's just me. If you're looking at the cost of wire... the flux core is more expensive (and you don't need shielding gas), but if you figure the lower cost of solid core wire + shielding gas (buy your own bottle), you will see that it works out pretty much the same in the end... with a better result from the solid core wire. The 110v will do most small stuff but don't count on it for anything serious. Also keep in mind the duty cycle of the welder... alot of the cheaper ones have a 10-20% cycle... which means you can weld for 1 or 2 minutes out of every 10 (as rated). Reality is, you will probably weld for more than that, but that's what the manufacturer rates their machine for....

So really... you need to look at what it is that you want to do and where you want to do it, look at your final costs in the end and the desired outcome for your work... and go from there...

Hope this helps...
Ted.

[S10Fan]

Originally Posted by Thadious

As a shipwright in the military, I've been stick welding for the last 25 years (5 as a hobby), TIG'ing for the last 20 and MIG'ing for the last 2 (since I started my project). Everyone of them has it's pro's and cons, but for MIG, here's my experience...

Flux core is good for heavier stuff and when you're welding outside as the shielding gas is produced by the heat of the weld and stays pretty local to the puddle. If you're welding heavier (1/8" to 1/4") you'll find flux core is pretty good, but will leave a slag that you have to clean off. Due to the polarity of the process, if you're trying to weld anything thinner, you'll find the heat generated by the weld will burn holes through most sheet metal and you'll just get frustrated.

Solid core uses an inert type of shielding gas depending on the material being welded. Be it argon, helium, CO2 or another mix, but it's easily blown away when working outside... so "indoors" will be your best bet here. There is no slag to clean off and so you will find that it's much easier to deal with... and you're weld is exactly what it looks like. The polarity of a solid core wire is reversed from the flux core and as such, the weld puddle is cooler and designed for more buildup than penetration (not that MIG has much anyways). As such, it works best for sheet metal welding ( I use 0.024" wire for mine... great control ).

If you're looking at cost... buy your welder once... Personally... I'd recommend a 220v welder but that's just me. If you're looking at the cost of wire... the flux core is more expensive (and you don't need shielding gas), but if you figure the lower cost of solid core wire + shielding gas (buy your own bottle), you will see that it works out pretty much the same in the end... with a better result from the solid core wire. The 110v will do most small stuff but don't count on it for anything serious. Also keep in mind the duty cycle of the welder... alot of the cheaper ones have a 10-20% cycle... which means you can weld for 1 or 2 minutes out of every 10 (as rated). Reality is, you will probably weld for more than that, but that's what the manufacturer rates their machine for....

So really... you need to look at what it is that you want to do and where you want to do it, look at your final costs in the end and the desired outcome for your work... and go from there...

Hope this helps...
Ted.

Well said!

I wouldn't trust a 110volt machine for welding a frame clip. I'm sure it's been done many times over, I'm just not convinced it's safe.

Soon I will be welding a clip on my '50 project. My plan is to tack/brace everything together with my Hobart 135 (gas) welder. The rolling frame will be transported to a friends shop and finish welded with a high amp 220volt machine.

[msgross]

that's a better plan....

I suggest that you return the Harbor Freight welder and use your gift cards for an engine hoist, truck stands, impact sockets or something else...

I paid $500 for a Miller 135 Mig with cart/bottle and helmet on Ebay (local guy).... I suggest to go that route or save money for a Miller 180amp machine...

Also, if you aren't good at welding then I wouldn't weld the frame myself... Pay someone a little money to make sure it's safe...

[wilberweb]

I know its cheap... but its all I could get at this time, So I Will have to keep it for now and try and practice to get super good.I have welded a little years ago for a fab shop in ca.
but that's been so many years ago I forgot how. I know argon is the way to go with miller or Lincoln. So I will probably just weld the patch panels with this welder and leave the frame to some one else.

-Larry

[OrrieG]

I would agree that if you are not experienced weld the non-structural stuff yourself and have a certified welder do the frame. You can tack it but to get the right penetration you need lots of experience. I seen pretty welds that when tested failed. I learned the basics form my Dad, took basic classes and have been doing it as a hobby for 45 years and still take anything that has to do with suspension to one of the fabricators I work with on metal buildings. That is the reason most of the brackets, supports, etc. on mine are bolted on, I can calculate the bolt strength.

[Thadious]

I know argon is the way to go with miller or Lincoln.

This isn't exactly true, just to keep you on track...

Argon is the way to go for welding aluminum and some types of stainless (in a pinch, but helium is preferred). Most would agree that a CO2/Argon mix is best for welding mild steel. The type of shielding gas you will be using is totally dependent on the base metal you are welding... (filler must match the base metal).

Cheers,
Ted.

[wilberweb]

Right on thadious, Thanks
I have haven't got the best welder but it will do for now I was talking to the guy at harbor freight tools he has a fab shop he was telling me that the upgrade welders with gas and flux combos have the same welding hose and internal parts so I am thinking about getting a stand for this one that accommodates the bottle get the hoses at a home plumbing supply and redo some electronics so I can reverse the polarity from stinger to ground and add an extra transformer for some extra voltage adjustment switch and see if I
am able to upgrade this welder to gas combo unit does any one have some more Ideas on this subject or know of any one that has done it?

-Larry

[Spackle100]

Since we are on the topic, how small of a welder (amps) can you go for body work? Using shielding gas of course. Thanks!