S10 swap driveshaft question

[vintage_car]

What did you guys use on the driveshaft for the s10 swap? I have the 2 piece from my s10. Should I measure it and mark it for a driveshaft shop to cut and balance it for the new dimension? Any suggestions or input on it would be great.
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[Thadious]

I had the two piece as well since I started with a extended cab frame, but having swapped everything out now... I have a nice single piece carbon fiber wrapped one I'm going to have shortened to fit.

Cheers,
Ted.

[vintage_car]

can you use the 2 piece, or is that something that should be changed out. If it is recommended to change out, is there a desirable one to start with or look for?

[rhodog77]

vintage,

I got mine from a junkyard. I found a single shaft at the exact length I needed. Its been a while but think I paid 40.00 for the shaft, and less than 20 for brand new u joints from autozone. My local driveshaft shop wanted 250.00 for one made to my specs. My yard had a trailer full of driveshafts so Im not sure what it came out of but I think it was a full size regular cab chevy truck. I got lucky, I didnt have to crawl under a bunch of cars to find what I needed. I pressed new joints in myself, a job anyone can do at home with a vice or a press. I posted a youtube link on how to remove the nylon thread seals from stock gm driveshaft. Hope this helps.

YouTube - GM universal joint threads.AVI

[vintage_car]

I guess I just gotta get measurement and go digging for a one piece if that is what I want. I just wanted to see if I could use the 2 piece...but if I could save that rebalance money I sure would like to!
Did you need to set your pinion angle up like mentioned in this post?
http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/s...d.php?t=435095 #8

[rhodog77]

my pinion angle ended up being a hair above 2 degrees. If you use a stock
s10 4WD rear end the saddles will dictate what degree the rear end will sit. There are (for lack of better word) nipples on the top leaf spring where your rearend will sit. Not much adjust much adjustment there for you to make. Its all on the motor end where you need to watch your angle.

[vintage_car]

I'm keeping the 2wd, not going the 4wd rear end route. but from what I have read the tailshaft and pinion should basically cancel each other out...correct? I'm welding up my trans brace today and need to know how to set the angle.
do I level the engine, then drop tailshaft a few degrees, not sure what the procedure is on this and what to have level and take angle measurements from.
Do you actually adjust the rear end upwards to get the matching angle to the tailshaft?

[Thadious]

Your drivetrain must be at the same angle... if your rear pinion angle is 2 deg up, then your engine/trans must be at a 2 deg down angle... If you don't, what happens is the "U" joints spin a different speeds and wear out quicker, not to mention the vibration!

My pinion angle is 4 degrees up with my setup and so my engine is 4 degrees down. Doesn't matter if they point directly at each other so long as they are parallel. I just picked up a $30 digital level and went from there. Made up my trans x-member and bolted it up.

Cheers,
Ted.

PS I went with the 4x4 rear... the extra mounting distance is invaluable! (I'd even hesitate to find a rear about 2-3" wider than that, maybe when I find a posi rear).

[vintage_car]

THANK YOU for the simple translation- ted.
I tubbed my bed to clear the rear tires, the previous owner had some wide rear tires that were not about to fit without tubbing. Since I did that, I didn't see a need to get the 4x4.

[RootBeer 6117]

Originally Posted by vintage_car

What did you guys use on the driveshaft for the s10 swap? I have the 2 piece from my s10. Should I measure it and mark it for a driveshaft shop to cut and balance it for the new dimension? Any suggestions or input on it would be great.
Posted via Mobile Device

I know this has probably been answered but I used a drive shaft from a 96 Buick roadmaster and it fit really well lengthwise. I still have room to slide the engine back more but the LT1 engine brackets are up agaisnt the crossmember I am going to have to do a mech fuel pump style notch to get it back more.

[vintage_car]

I read in a couple other posts that had measurements of the driveshaft around 58-59 1/2"...mine is almost 62"? I have a 350 w/ 350 trans...anyone else have this measurement for their driveshaft? I found a shop close that will cut, balance, replace carrier bearing and u joints for about $150 out the door...so I guess I will stick with the 2 piece that I have...unless Thadious you want to send me your carbon fiber wrapped one (shortened to my dimensions).