I Started The Front Suspension/Disc Brake Upgrade. A Few Pics

[BigPhil66]

Well,, after working my Azz off at work and being sick for over a week...I finally started the Suspension/Disc Brake Upgrade. Working by myself weak as a little boy I beat the crap out of those ball joints which I am willing to bet are original...I got all but one. For those that don't know, this is on my 66 Chevy truck project which I converted the manual steering to power and now changing almost all the front suspension parts with a bit of a drop (front & rear) and Disc brake upgrade (front & rear). I still need to get the last ball joint off and remove the A arms to replace the bushings/media blast...as you can see the underside is covered in years of dirt. Here are a few pics...I like the last one of the new tie rod ends with the turn buckles...Purdy!!
more to come.

[stealth_weapons]

where did you get the parts from/how much? if you dont mind me asking. i am waiting on my tax return to do the exact same things, disk brakes (all 4), front end rebuild kit, sway bar kit, drop spindles, etc...(all from CPP i think) should ride like a brand new truck

[BigPhil66]

Originally Posted by stealth_weapons

where did you get the parts from/how much? if you dont mind me asking. i am waiting on my tax return to do the exact same things, disk brakes (all 4), front end rebuild kit, sway bar kit, drop spindles, etc...(all from CPP i think) should ride like a brand new truck

That is where I got my parts. My dad and I may a day of driving into Orange County picked up the parts and had lunch. I believe it was 1,500 for the complete kit that they were offering after taxes. I just went on there site and I couldn't find the kit that I got but all the components are there. The only things that I didn't get for the front is the A arms and tie rod...everything else was included in the kit. For the rear I got the brakes, shocks, & springs.

[daverod]

A 10 lb sledge works great. Also know as a BFH.

[Ratone71]

Love the sledge hammer! The only way to go!

[BigPhil66]

Originally Posted by daverod

A 10 lb sledge works great. Also know as a BFH.

Ah....I need 10lb sledge and maybe that ball joint fork. Will that work on the bottom ball joint? The tops popped like nothing and the passenger side bottom with about 6 good wacks. The driver side lower will not budge. I am going to see if I can borrow the neighbors torch if I have to.

[daverod]

I used it on the bottom. Thats the one that required the BFH. I beat on it for about 20 min with the LFH. Most auto places will let you use the fork.

[BigPhil66]

Originally Posted by daverod

I used it on the bottom. Thats the one that required the BFH. I beat on it for about 20 min with the LFH. Most auto places will let you use the fork.

Yea, here in Cali we have to rent the tool with 20 or 30 dollar deposit but I think I can get it even if I have to go by a BFH since I can always use one of those. Thanks!

[Clyde65]

I would concider getting your parts from ECE, instead of CPP. lots of neg feedback about CS for CPP on the board check out the review section.

[BigPhil66]

What if I forget where the shims were...front, rear, driver side, passenger side? How hard woul it be to get the front end back to where it needs to be?Can an alignment shop fix it?

[daverod]

I'm pretty sure you'll have to take it to a shop anyway. That's what pictures are for.

[allengator]

Originally Posted by BigPhil66

What if I forget where the shims were...front, rear, driver side, passenger side? How hard woul it be to get the front end back to where it needs to be?Can an alignment shop fix it?

I would think that where the shims USED to be will no longer be relevant...
Let them start from scratch...

[BigPhil66]

Originally Posted by daverod

I'm pretty sure you'll have to take it to a shop anyway. That's what pictures are for.

There was so much caked up crap that I really couldn't tell what is what. I know where they go its just that there are 3 different size shims and a spacer creating a gap for each bolt and I don't want to mix them up. I guess like measuring the tie rod ends to get the steering as close to where it was so that there is little adjustment...I want to try to do the same for the A arm. It will probably cost the same either way....I hope.

Originally Posted by allengator

I would think that where the shims USED to be will no longer be relevant...
Let them start from scratch...

I probably that I could let them start from scratch but I will also need to drive the truck to the alignment shop. The truck drove good when I bought it, nice and straight and smooth so I am hoping that I don't crew that up. I am a rookie at this even though my dad was a master mechanic...he has forgotten a bit in his many years although he did warn me about the shims.

[daverod]

I would put the shims back in. I don't think you get full arm travel with out them. Maybe you do on a normal truck I know on my 66 I did'nt put the shims in and it would'nt lay frame. I guess if your just driving to the shop that would'nt matter.

[protrash64]

To get that lower to pop I had to jack up the drum so the spring would push down on the balljoint and air hammer in the pickelfork on its side to get enough wedge. I think I had something else in there too; cant remember!!

Lot's of fun!!!!!!

[BigPhil66]

Originally Posted by daverod

I would put the shims back in. I don't think you get full arm travel with out them. Maybe you do on a normal truck I know on my 66 I did'nt put the shims in and it would'nt lay frame. I guess if your just driving to the shop that would'nt matter.

I have the shims zip tied to a cardboard and labeled and I am for sure going to put them back where they were.

Originally Posted by protrash64

To get that lower to pop I had to jack up the drum so the spring would push down on the balljoint and air hammer in the pickelfork on its side to get enough wedge. I think I had something else in there too; cant remember!!

Lot's of fun!!!!!!

I also used the jack on the drum and with three wacks it popped.

[protrash64]

I also used the jack on the drum and with three wacks it popped. [/QUOTE]

.......always nice when that happens!!! Downhill from here!

About the shim packs: I just needed to do some driveway adjustments on my alignment after lowering. My truck had positive camber( top of tire leaning out) so I measured and reduced the shims by an equal amount front/rear to get a negative camber situation. I measured from the frame to the rotor to get an equal measurement on both sides.

[stealth_weapons]

maybe i missed it but what wheels are you going with?

[BigPhil66]

Originally Posted by protrash64

I also used the jack on the drum and with three wacks it popped.

.......always nice when that happens!!! Downhill from here!

About the shim packs: I just needed to do some driveway adjustments on my alignment after lowering. My truck had positive camber( top of tire leaning out) so I measured and reduced the shims by an equal amount front/rear to get a negative camber situation. I measured from the frame to the rotor to get an equal measurement on both sides.[/QUOTE]

Thanks...good info that I can use.

Originally Posted by stealth_weapons

maybe i missed it but what wheels are you going with?

I have some 17" Eagle Alloys that I don't even know if they are going to work. I got them from my brother in law. These are the wheels. Not exactly what I wanted but I got them in a trade...still not sure but I will probably go Old school.