Need to slam my doors shut; HELP NEEDED!

[erikgto]

I've been trying to figure this out....

My C10 has had it's body pretty much restored, but somehow I need to slam the doors too hard to get them closed properly.

'The doors don't sag. And there's nothing else as far as I can see or feel that appears to be wrong with it.

I know most of these trucks don't have doors that shut as nice as a new Lexus.
But a friend of mine has a '90 Suburb which has really nice closing doors......they simply click onto the doorpin.

Do I need to grease the locks? Or is it something else?!?!?.

[Doug_J]

have you tried adjusting the latch on the door, and if I remember right the pin on the cab is adjustable also.

[hotrodhomi]

lube and adjust the latch. It made a huge difference on mine.

[Keith Seymore]

Try it with the window down and see if it's better.

Those doors are light and they push a lot of air. The relief valves in the cab cant' vent the air fast enough, particularly with a regular cab (that's why a Suburban can be better - because it's got more internal room to compress the air).

Mine got much worse after I replaced the door seals. I usually keep my door open while the passenger closes his/her door, then close mine after them.

You can take the Pressure Relief Valves our of the bottom of the doors and that will sometimes help; the tradeoff is you will get a bit of cold air through them during the winter.

K

[silvereagle07]

Look at the door striker and see if the plastic bushing is distorted. Replace it and adjust the striker.

[72freak]

Do you have the plastic round things on the stricker studs?

You may need to replace or ad them.

[LOW1TON]

I agree with 72 freak those plastic sleeves on the door strykers make a huge difference.

[glhman222]

it may sound weird but have someone put your truck up on a lift, mine did the same thing but after i put er up on the lift it shuts a lot better now

[SCOTI]

Originally Posted by LOW1TON

I agree with 72 freak those plastic sleeves on the door strykers make a huge difference.

If the doors are difficult to close & rattle, it's usually related to the striker bushings. If they don't rattle, try the window down strategy & see if there's improvement (since it was 'pretty much restored', that might mean is has fresh door rubber/seals).

[gchemist]

Crack your window a bit. Check the flap not the passengerside kick panel. It should be open a bit when the heat is off.
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[erikgto]

All rubbers and seals are new.

I'll try the styker first.
And lube the vents.

[Keith Seymore]

Originally Posted by erikgto

All rubbers and seals are new. I'll try the styker first.
And lube the vents.

I'd try rolling the window down first since it's easy (no tools required). That will tell you if it is a "mechanical" problem or an "air management" problem. The solutions are different depending on which it is.

Then go from there.

K

[classicchev]

[QUOTE=erikgto;4429460]All rubbers and seals are new.


I would say thats your problem. My front doors need a slam, and I could not get the rears to even latch, so I went to the local Pick and Pull and grabbed the rear set out of a newer burb and now they shut like a Caddy. I will change the fronts when I change the doors.



Darren

[2badgn]

Originally Posted by 72freak

Do you have the plastic round things on the stricker studs?

You may need to replace or ad them.

How do u remove the door striker to put on the sleeve?

[classicchev]

Unbolt the post from the back, and the large washer unscrews and the plastic slides off.

Remember the position of the post so you can put it in the same spot.

[SCOTI]

Originally Posted by classicchev

Unbolt the post from the back, and the large washer unscrews and the plastic slides off.

Remember the position of the post so you can put it in the same spot.

Mark it w/a sharpie before loosening/removing.

[karl]

My 75 does the same thing even with new doorhinge pins/bushings and the window cracked open. I will check the striker. Didnt know they had a bushing? News to me.

[TeXaS 86 C10]

you might need to remove the rear speakers on the 86 to access the back of the striker panel area... and grab a couple extra plastic bushings for future replacements

[72freak]

Also remember when you remove the striker bolt that the threaded backing plate will now fall down in the pillar. This is a real treat to deal with when doing the front doors of a crew cab or a Suburban. You basically have to take all the trim out in that area to do it. ANOTHER GREAT GM DESIGN!!!