...ok what gives???

[CEE1NG_RED]

...so the oil dipstick tube is not broken, but it is not snug into the block? The previous owner used RTV (shown in the pic), but did not really help in making the dipstick tube secure. It looks like a factory dipstick/tube so does anyone have any solution? It's from a '78 c/10 motor (so he says), but not sure. Took a pic of the #s on the block, so maybe you guys can help me out. I haven't driven it since I brought it home. Not until I get this resolved. Any solution that works (permanently), not for the time being...




I also noticed that the tranny oil dipstick bracket is not screwed to the block, but there is no holes for it to screw it on. It is also too close to the firewall. Could it be an aftermarket or mickey mouse work? Anyway to fix this?



Last, I also noticed other quick fixes that the previous owner had done with the carburetor

and the lower suspension where the spring perch, a piece has been cut off.

Any help and guidance to fix this issues so I can enjoy my '67 again would be greatly appreciated.

[Jeffs70]

Dipstick tube:
this seems to happen often with dipstick tubes. maybe clean the area as best as you can and even in the hole where the tube fits as well as clean the tube before doing anything farther. It may not be a bad Idea to get some JB Weld and put on the tube where it sits. and let it sit over night and day that may help keep it where it belongs. just make sure you dont put to much and let it drip into your crank case.

Tranny Dipstick:
Mine bolts up to the bell housing off the tranny. if there is no holes on the dipstick then you may need to get the correct one.

It looks as if the PO plugged a few vacum lines with screws and bolts, You can find some plugs for this purpose at any part store.

Lower control arm Piece that is cut off is the bump stop bracket and bump stop. I am guessing your truck has been lowered with coil springs and they was hitting the bump stops so the P.O cut those off to get more travel in the suspension.

[geezer#99]

I've pinched the end of the tube a bit to make it slightly ovalled and put some silicone on it to seal it and reinstalled with no problems.
The dipstick on your tranny is made for a different vehicle. It should stick out between your header tube and the firewall. Lokar makes flexible ones.
Saw on your other thread about your dipstick falling out. Do you have a pvc on one valve cover. Just breathers on your valve covers won't allow all the crankcase pressure out. Maybe your dipstick was blown out by crankcase pressure.
That kinked heater hose will give you problems too. You need better wire seperators.
And that chrome water neck will be a leaker.
And that rubber fuel line could result in an engine fire. Better to bend a tube line to fit.

[67chevemall]

use a round pryrod and bend the tube so it becomes wider around then snug it back in the block.

[Jessechop]

Looks to me that the insert in the block is missing. There is another tube that goes into the block before the dip stick tube.

[gkesseru]

Do not JB weld or glue in place. The reason that tube is loose is that the header on this side cannot be removed or lowered without pulling the oil tube. It's loose because the previous owner pulled it too many times getting the headers to seal. It's supposed to be a tight fit without any extra tubes or glue. Just deform it a little and tap it back in place. You can use a cold chisel (very lightly) tapping on the flange to get it back in. You can pull it back out for header gasket maintenance by putting a pair of vise-grips on the top of the tube and tapping it up with a small hammer.

[CEE1NG_RED]

Originally Posted by geezer#99

I've pinched the end of the tube a bit to make it slightly ovalled and put some silicone on it to seal it and reinstalled with no problems.
The dipstick on your tranny is made for a different vehicle. It should stick out between your header tube and the firewall. Lokar makes flexible ones.
Saw on your other thread about your dipstick falling out. Do you have a pvc on one valve cover. Just breathers on your valve covers won't allow all the crankcase pressure out. Maybe your dipstick was blown out by crankcase pressure.
That kinked heater hose will give you problems too. You need better wire seperators.
And that chrome water neck will be a leaker.
And that rubber fuel line could result in an engine fire. Better to bend a tube line to fit.

Is Lokar a member? The driver side had a filler cap, but the previous owner took it out and put a regular closed cap; just the passenger side has a filler cap now. Ill drop by NAPA sometime this week to figure out which heater hose will work since I guess a lot of the parts are from different vehicles; same goes with the fuel line.

Originally Posted by 67chevemall

use a round pryrod and bend the tube so it becomes wider around then snug it back in the block.

k

Originally Posted by Jessechop

Looks to me that the insert in the block is missing. There is another tube that goes into the block before the dip stick tube.

Where's this insert you're talking about?

[Jessechop]

Originally Posted by CEE1NG_RED

Is Lokar a member? The driver side had a filler cap, but the previous owner took it out and put a regular closed cap; just the passenger side has a filler cap now. Ill drop by NAPA sometime this week to figure out which heater hose will work since I guess a lot of the parts are from different vehicles; same goes with the fuel line.

k


Where's this insert you're talking about?

I dont know where it is, maybe the previous owner lost it. It goes all the way through into the pan

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/73-74...Q5fAccessories

[mcbassin]

On the dipstick tube, I would find a cheapy deepwell socket that you don't mind hammering on. The socket needs to be a little bigger than the I.D. of the tube. Drive it in enough to make the tube larger. Kinda like they do with mandrels at a muffler shop. This is pretty common for them to be loose. good luck!

[maynardtruckin]

Don't worry about the bump stop mount missing. It was removed probably because the truck was lowered and If you need a bump stop just get one for a 73 chevy 4x4 that bolts on. as for the dipstick tube you can enlarge it till it fits snug and then a little RTV will seal it and not hurt it.

[maynardtruckin]

"The dipstick on your tranny is made for a different vehicle. It should stick out between your header tube and the firewall. "

My 70 half ton had the same trans dipstick location as yours when it was stock with a 350 and now I have a 700r4 and it is still in the same location. As for the bottom end of the dipstick tube It looks like it is still in the engine. If it was not in the dip stick would have marks ware it hit the crank shaft.

[CUSTOM 72]

Here are some picks for you of the lower control arm bump stop hop this helps, i cut mine off when i installed my air ride and have had no problems, my kit came with a small bolt on stop that mounts to the upper spring perch.

[geezer#99]

Lokar is a company.
http://lokar.com/

Saw your heater is bypassed. That's why the hose is kinked. No biggy. If you hook up your heater core then worry about the hoses.
Napa won't have a fuel line. You'll need to make one cause of your edelbrock carb.

[CEE1NG_RED]

Originally Posted by maynardtruckin

"The dipstick on your tranny is made for a different vehicle. It should stick out between your header tube and the firewall. "

My 70 half ton had the same trans dipstick location as yours when it was stock with a 350 and now I have a 700r4 and it is still in the same location. As for the bottom end of the dipstick tube It looks like it is still in the engine. If it was not in the dip stick would have marks ware it hit the crank shaft.

Wait?? So you're telling me there's another piece to the oil dipstick tube and it's stuck in the engine?? Will this hurt the engine if I left it there and install a new dipstick tube??

And about your tranny dipstick...where did you mount the bracket to?? Mine has no place to mount it too??? It doesn't wiggle though, but may later on so a solution to mount the bracket securely from minimizing the tube from shaking would need to be fixed.

[maynardtruckin]

The lower tube is suppose to be there it is bad if it is not there. The oil dipstick tube is stock as a 2 piece.

The trans tube mount to the top bell housing bolt on the passengers side.

[CEE1NG_RED]

Originally Posted by maynardtruckin

The lower tube is suppose to be there it is bad if it is not there.

The trans tube mount to the top bell housing bolt on the passengers side.

Anyway to check if the lower tube is in the motor w/o taking it apart? Also, why is it bad? The dipstick doesn't look like it was broken off (if it had been connected w/ the lower tube). Anyways, Im a bit confuse....is the lower and upper dipstick tube suppose to connect like a mandrel piping (bigger and smaller tubes connected)?? If not, I'm hoping the lower tube is there and all I need to do is to just tap the (I guess) upper tube of the dipstick on top of the lower tube.

[maynardtruckin]

Originally Posted by CEE1NG_RED

Anyway to check if the lower tube is in the motor w/o taking it apart? Also, why is it bad? The dipstick doesn't look like it was broken off (if it had been connected w/ the lower tube). Anyways, Im a bit confuse....is the lower and upper dipstick tube suppose to connect like a mandrel piping (bigger and smaller tubes connected)?? If not, I'm hoping the lower tube is there and all I need to do is to just tap the (I guess) upper tube of the dipstick on top of the lower tube.

The lower tube is separate from the upper and the upper justs gets put in the block not the lower tube. If the lower tube was not there you should have marks on the dipstick ware it would hit the crank shaft. as it looks from the pic of that side of the block it is in there and you have nothing to worry about.

[maynardtruckin]

Originally Posted by CEE1NG_RED

Anyway to check if the lower tube is in the motor w/o taking it apart? Also, why is it bad? The dipstick doesn't look like it was broken off (if it had been connected w/ the lower tube). Anyways, Im a bit confuse....is the lower and upper dipstick tube suppose to connect like a mandrel piping (bigger and smaller tubes connected)?? If not, I'm hoping the lower tube is there and all I need to do is to just tap the (I guess) upper tube of the dipstick on top of the lower tube.

The lower tube is separate from the upper and the upper justs gets put in the block not the lower tube. If the lower tube was not there you should have marks on the dipstick ware it would hit the crank shaft. as it looks from the pic of that side of the block it is in there and you have nothing to worry about.

O and with out the lower tube your reading will be off and if the oil hit the dipstick it could push it up in to the crank shaft and cause problems.