Chrome Aternator Source Help

[mtchevytruck]

My three wire alternator on my new 1977 project truck is over charging so I need a new one. Decided to go chrome. Would like a 80-100 amp three wire. Can anyone give me any direction on a good quality three wire at a fair price. Local shop can build a triple chrome, 80 amp, for $150. Found this for $70 after shipping.

http://www.startersalternators.com/p...94_a_7cA7294CN

[mej005]

I have a 200 amp from db electrical on my s-10 for the past 2.5 yrs with no problems. I plan on getting this one for my 81 c10.

http://www.dbelectrical.com/c-8468-110-amp.aspx

[slammed427]

Have you tried powermaster.com ? I've used them in the past on my bagged trucks.

[78 Chevyrado]

I also highly recommend db electrical. I have their 140A 3 wire in mine. I love it

Here's a 110A Chrome one
http://www.dbelectrical.com/p-5313-n...adr0336-c.aspx

Stick with a 3 wire setup. One wire is inferior.

[piecesparts]

Everyone has something that works for them. I am using chrome alternators from TUFF STUFF and they give you a quality product that holds up well. My alternators carry 80 amps at idle, not the 35 amps most others do. It was worth then money for the extra abioity to carry heavy loads and the chrome is a good quality.

Give them a call

http://www.tuffstuffperformance.com/

[rfmaster]

Originally Posted by mtchevytruck

My three wire alternator on my new 1977 project truck is over charging so I need a new one. Decided to go chrome. Would like a 80-100 amp three wire. Can anyone give me any direction on a good quality three wire at a fair price. Local shop can build a triple chrome, 80 amp, for $150. Found this for $70 after shipping.

http://www.startersalternators.com/p...94_a_7cA7294CN

From your photo it looks like you have a 10-SI alternator. A complete rebuild kit costs around $20 + shipping. Typical kit should contain voltage regulator, diode trio, brush holder with brushes, rectifier, pulley bearing and rear needle bearing. Most of the time over charging is due to a corroded sense wire (S) connection. You could rebuild your alternator (and find why it is over charging) for about $25 and some elbow grease.

//RF

[mtchevytruck]

Originally Posted by rfmaster

From your photo it looks like you have a 10-SI alternator. A complete rebuild kit costs around $20 + shipping. Typical kit should contain voltage regulator, diode trio, brush holder with brushes, rectifier, pulley bearing and rear needle bearing. Most of the time over charging is due to a corroded sense wire (S) connection. You could rebuild your alternator (and find why it is over charging) for about $25 and some elbow grease.

//RF

Rfmaster, Thanks for the info. would seriously consider a rebuild if nothing more than just to do one. How does a guy pick/adjust amp out put at idle and at rpm? I thought maybe my regulator went bad. As far as the "s" sensor wire, could I perform a ohms test or something similar to determine if I'm getting the correct voltage? After all these questions I'm posing I'm still probably going to go with a chrome unit for the bling. I believe I'm going to order this one from
http://www.startersalternators.com/p...94_a_7cA7294CN
It's hard to beat $70. It doesn't give idle amp out put in description and my local shop warned against cheaper chrome quality. His is triple plated (thus the double price) Probably his is a better built unit all joking aside. He builds them to spec.

[rfmaster]

If you look on the back of your alternator there should be two small recessed male spade lug connections usually labeled #1 and #2. Terminal #1 is the "exciter" or "field" wire - this is usually connected to BAT light. Terminal #2 is the "remote voltage sensing wire". This is commonly referred to as three wire hook up (uses a white plug).

Sense wire is connected to remote sense (#2) terminal of the voltage regulator (inside alternator). Regulator uses voltage level on the sense wire to control alternator output voltage to compensate for voltage drop between alternator +B terminal and the battery. Alternator should put out between 13.8 and 14.6 volts. If there is no electrical load battery voltage (at the battery terminals) should be around 13.0 to 13.2 volts which would indicate fully charged battery. Most regulators have a set point of 14.6V which allows alternator to compensate for a voltage drop between battery and main distribution block (it is mounted on the firewall and has two studs). Place DVM with test leads connected at the battery terminals - with engine idling voltage should be varying between 13.0 and 13.5 with occasional excursions above 14 volts (if something turns on).

There should be no confusion regarding alternator BAT+ connection. This is a large insulated threaded terminal post on the back of the alternator and provides all the current for your accessories and charges your battery.

//RF