Thoughts on this rear bag setup..

[kev2809]

i wanted some opinions, pros and cons to this rear setup im thinking of switching to.

i want it something like this, well a lot like this..



i was thinking of ordering 36" Rectangle square tubing 1.5" x 3" x 3/16" Wall, and 4 circle plates. weld the cirlce plates on the trailing arms, further along away from the stock coil spot, and gusset them of course. then run the top rectangle tubing crossmember across, bolt it in, and also weld it on. weld the top circle plates to the crossmember, and also gusset it. im switching to smaller blocks to help with scrub line issues (2" blocks with 15's is too close for me), so i would like to gain it back by moving the bags. and also my rear driver side bag is not centered correctly, causing it to twist when fully deflated.

so i figure moving them will get me lower, and center my bags correctly.

any thoughts or opinion, input is greatly appreciated. thanks!

[redsled04]

The lower bars will bind up. unless the ends were turned into bushings.


He mayswell made new lowers if he was gonna do a 45link.Or just leave the lowers stock and use a panard bar.

[kev2809]

they will bind up because the bags are off centered? would it help if there was another crossmember connecting the trailing arms under the bags?
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[PGSigns]

My only concern with the bags that far forward on the trailing arms is the bending moment being put on the arms and the greatly increased pressure needed to lift the truck making for a very stiff bag. Moving the bag closer to the pivot reduced the leverage of the trailing arm. These stock arms were not designed to be center loaded and will flex at that point and could fail after repeated cycles.
Jimmy

[tubbedII]

My bro has that set up...never made it on the road so can't really say much about how it holds up. I know he's willing to sell it if you're interested...

[gringoloco]

Originally Posted by kev2809

im switching to smaller blocks to help with scrub line issues (2" blocks with 15's is too close for me), so i would like to gain it back by moving the bags.

If this is your main reasoning for moving them, you could do a setup like the Airlift system's lower mount, coupled with an ART frame side upper mount. Would be a whole lot easier, and cheaper; you could prolly do it for $100 or so. With them being mounted using the stock spring hole, you don't have to worry about flexing the arms, will maintain the same ratio, but get your drop. Twisting would be minimal, if any, due to them being so close to the axle mounts.

Originally Posted by kev2809

they will bind up because the bags are off centered? would it help if there was another crossmember connecting the trailing arms under the bags?
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I think his concern was with the upper links in the OP's pic. With the trailing arms fixed at the axle, it will cause binding issues in a four link setup.

[kev2809]

do u have a pic of that setup? and that last bracket u posted, does it bolt on and weld on?
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[gringoloco]

The second one is from ART and is a bolt on, I suppose you could weld it too. There are also weld on versions from them, suicidedoors, etc.

The lower bracket is from this Airlift kit. I don't particularly care for the upper setup, as it doesn't buy you any extra drop over 'stock' mounting, but the lower brackets would work well for your application if you could buy them separately, or would be very easy to fab. It is also VERY expensive for what you're getting. The idea of using the ART upper bracket would be to move it up 3" or so on the frame rail, buying you the drop lost by the compressed height of the bag between the framerails. This could be used to eliminate the drop blocks, or to utilize a mild step notch.

Classic Trucks installed the kit here.

[kev2809]

so the second pic is the upper mount bolted to the frame?
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[N2TRUX]

Different application, but same bracket...

[memphisrain]

Originally Posted by gringoloco

If this is your main reasoning for moving them, you could do a setup like the Airlift system's lower mount, coupled with an ART frame side upper mount. Would be a whole lot easier, and cheaper; you could prolly do it for $100 or so. With them being mounted using the stock spring hole, you don't have to worry about flexing the arms, will maintain the same ratio, but get your drop. Twisting would be minimal, if any, due to them being so close to the axle mounts.

I think his concern was with the upper links in the OP's pic. With the trailing arms fixed at the axle, it will cause binding issues in a four link setup.

The only problem I see with that bracket setup is that it doesn't leave much room for wider aftermarket wheels. I wonder if a guy could flip them the other way and put the air bags in board.

mR

[kev2809]

^^ thats what i was thinking. i was lookin at my truck today and there is no room for that bracket to be on the outside. i dont see why it wouldnt work on the inside, as ive seen a lot of setups with bags on the inside. the only problem with mine is directly above the bag is where my frame notch starts. but, since that top bracket is flat, i suppose i could make it work. the lower backet may have to be angle and not straight out though.

[kev2809]

just looked up the prices, not to bad i guess for a bolt on bag kit. top mounts are 25 bucks a piece..hmmm, wonder if i should give it a shot..

[memphisrain]

Post up some pics if you do. I'm thinking this might be the way I do mine.


mR

[kev2809]

will do, i just ordered the upper brackets from ride tech. 67 shipped. now i need to find/or make the lowers..

[lolife99]

http://www.*****************/catalog/bag-brackets

[tubbedII]

Originally Posted by kev2809

will do, i just ordered the upper brackets from ride tech. 67 shipped. now i need to find/or make the lowers..

You planning on mounting the bags in front or behind the axel? If behind the axel, is there enough room with the tank back there? If in front, what are your plans for exhaust?

I only have a c-notch right, but if this set up works, I could see about getting a step notch installed and still be in my budget!

[kev2809]

i think it will be easier for me to mount in front of the axle. im not worried about the exhaust as i plan to dump it just under the seats. one thing i didnt think of before i ordered the brackets is the outside of the frame that these would normally bolt to, is flat. the inside where i want to bolt it to, is the open side. lol

im thinking of maybe getting some c channel, and bolting/welding my bracket to that, then welding and bolting that c channel to my frame where i need it...unless anyone can think of a better idea!


and i checked suicidedoors, but i didnt see a bracket that i could bolt in the original spring location, or one that would even be long enough to where i could drill a hole in it myself. im thinking i need one like the first pic in post #6.

OR

find a bracket that could bolt behind the axle ( like the setup in post #10) using the u bolt holes.


decisions decisions...

[kev2809]

any ideas?

[memphisrain]

You could make a small boxing plate for the frame and weld that in. C-channel might work, but I don't know if the section of frame at that point would be straight enough to slide it over.

mR

[kev2809]

ya, i have to check when the brackets come in. another thing i noticed, if i bolt this thing right above where the original coil spring goes, it doesnt get me any lower because the top mount will sit nearly flush with the bottom of the frame, getting me no lower. i will play around with it when i get them in, still looking for ideas and a lower bag mount if anyone has anything to suggest.

[kev2809]

got the ride tech upper brackets in today, so now i need to figure out how to get these things on my frame! lol

im thinking of putting here...but flush with the frame across (not above the frame like im holding it).



would the easiest thing to do is grab some c channel, bolt in on the c channel, then weld it on, then weld and bolt the c channel on. then....make a lower bracket that bolts in the stock coil location and to reach to be centered with the upper one?


just trying to find the easiest way to do it without doing it more than once.

[tubbedII]

Sounds like you got the right idea. I can't weld, but if I could, this is what I'd do:

Take the bags out and push the TAs up to the frame (as low as the burb will go). Then make a block of wood thats 2.9" tall with the mounting holes drill in the top and bottom to match the bag (I think those are 2600 doms and that's their compressed height). Mount the top bracket to the wood and then try to figure out where it could be put after that. Then make the bracket for the bottom based off of the block of wood.

With it this way, you'll get the most out of the drop and you'll ensure the bag is centered on the mounts. The tricky part (figuring out the mounts) is all in your imagination and welding skills.

[kev2809]

well, what i was thinking was pull out the blocks and bags.mount the bottom mount and bolt the bag up. then let it all the way down til the frame hits with the arm..measure the 2.9" up the frame and mount it there..this would basically let it lay out with no blocks. is this making sense..?
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[kev2809]

i also think that i remove the blocks completely, then i wont have to compensate for the collapsed bag height..the difference will only be about .8 or. 9 of an inch. that will let me mount the bag and upper brackets now..then figure out the lower bracket length. right?
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