1965 gmc frame motor mounts

[moovinmetal]

Where can I find the correct pair of frame engine mounts for a 1989 350 with a 700 r4 installing into a 1965 gmc 1/2 ton swb. I have installed with mounts in the rear holes but, must have the incorrect mounts because the trans hits on the seam below the firewall and cannot install the HEI. Thanks,Jack
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[Captainfab]

Those are the correct frame brackets for a small block in the '63-'66 trucks. Do you have the small hump trans cover? The HEI will fit.....it is close but it does fit. So it sounds like you are wanting a set of small block '67-'72 frame brackets?

[Rannos]

From what your saying I am guessing you used the rear mounts from your old engine on the later model engine. What you need is the later model engine perches and mounts that mount closer to the front of the engine block. You can either run some out of 67 and newer truck or use aftermarket. CPP makes a nice tubular engine perch that's a direct bolt in and comes with hardware and is cost effective. With them you can run the later model engine mounts and it gives you more clearance for exhaust and what not.

[Captainfab]

The CPP tubular brackets utilize the '60's style passenger car motor mounts.

[moovinmetal]

Will the small block 67-72 mounts line up in the front position with all holes? Ireally do not want to drill any holes. If I move forward to the front holes it appears the transmission will have clearance needed. It appeRs to have the small hump. Thanks for the help on this.
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[moovinmetal]

I just called the man I got my mounts from he advised they are from 67-72 truck.
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[padresag]

sometimes one has to manipulate the floor seam that protrudes down from the floor at the b/housing area.. if you require new body mount insulators or if you have some rust in that area (cab mounts,floor), repairing the sheet metal in that area will also help to put the body back in it's proper position.
ron

[BarnFind]

There are three holes on the top of your frame. The 60-66 stands use the back two holes and the 67-72 use the front two holes. Though the two perches look similar and will both bolt right up to your frame, the 67-72 have a tighter bend on the end that bolts to the crossmember. Sean

[kieth]

I recently used engine mounts from a 91 suburban (same as 87 pickup) we did use the front 2 holes in the frame but ended up having to modify the location of the rubber block (lower in the bracket) and we notched the frame to keep all dimensions the same as the suburban donor) it worked great and no interferance with the tbi 350 700r4 combo and the cab. Kieth

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[BarnFind]

I dont think anyone is trying to buy or sell anything via this thread. I thought he was just asking for a little info. Sean

[Andice]

Right?

[SFTorange]

I'm going to revive this thread with a few questions of my own. My 1966 C-20 came from the factory with a 283 andhigh transmission hump. I installed a 350 with an HEI distributor in place of the 283, and the clearance was tight, but manageable. While doing my frame-off I decided to use a set of 67-72 engine perches to move the engine forward 2.5 inches. This was relatively easy since I was installing a 700r4 and was going to be doing driveline modifications, trans crossmember relocation, etc anyway.

I've got the engine mounted with the new perches in place, Luckily, the difference in length between the Turbo 350 and 700r4 offset each other and my driveline is still the right length. However, my original dual exhaust won't fit. The stock ram's horn manifolds dump straight down over the front suspension crossmember, and the bend in the exhaust is too deep now. There is 6" of clearance between the bottom of the manifold and the crossmember. I went to a local custom exhaust shop today, and the owner told me that he most likely cannot bend exhaust to clear the suspension crossmember with my stock manifolds. He strongly recommended that I go back to my original engine mounting setup in the rear holes.

I'm trying to figure out if he knows what he is talking about, or if he is just opinionated. If I move back to the original engine perches, the exhaust will clear, but the HEI will be tight, and some people have clearance trouble with the 700r4. If I stay in the forward location, I'll have trouble with the exhaust.

My main question is: Do trucks that came from the factory with a high transmission hump have more HEI/700r4 clearance than trucks with a short hump? It seems like some people have trouble with clearance and some don't. I'm tempted to move the engine back, but then I will have to modify the driveline and deal with tight clearances on the distributor. I can't remember for sure how close it was before, but before I move it back, I want to make sure that the transmission will clear the firewall.

Secondly, has anyone gotten exhaust to fit with stock manifolds and the engine in the forward perches? The exhaust guy says that he'll try to bend the exhaust to fit, but will make no guarantees.

I'm open to suggestions, what do you think?

[padresag]

700r4 have no problem with the h/hump
some people have trouble with everything. the hei should clear with the stock mounts, may be close but close only counts in horseshoes and hand grenades
ron

[BarnFind]

Change the exhaust manifolds. Even with chevelle 3/4 length headers, I had to massage the engine stand. IMO the engine moved forward not only works better but, the engine looks right in the engine bay. In the back position, it seemed like I had to run a long water pump and fan spacer to get it close enough to the radiator. When I looked in the engine compartment, I didnt like looking at mostly fan shroud. Sean

[Rich 5150 69]

Originally Posted by SFTorange

I'm going to revive this thread with a few questions of my own. My 1966 C-20 came from the factory with a 283 andhigh transmission hump. I installed a 350 with an HEI distributor in place of the 283, and the clearance was tight, but manageable. While doing my frame-off I decided to use a set of 67-72 engine perches to move the engine forward 2.5 inches. This was relatively easy since I was installing a 700r4 and was going to be doing driveline modifications, trans crossmember relocation, etc anyway.

I've got the engine mounted with the new perches in place, Luckily, the difference in length between the Turbo 350 and 700r4 offset each other and my driveline is still the right length. However, my original dual exhaust won't fit. The stock ram's horn manifolds dump straight down over the front suspension crossmember, and the bend in the exhaust is too deep now. There is 6" of clearance between the bottom of the manifold and the crossmember. I went to a local custom exhaust shop today, and the owner told me that he most likely cannot bend exhaust to clear the suspension crossmember with my stock manifolds. He strongly recommended that I go back to my original engine mounting setup in the rear holes.

I'm trying to figure out if he knows what he is talking about, or if he is just opinionated. If I move back to the original engine perches, the exhaust will clear, but the HEI will be tight, and some people have clearance trouble with the 700r4. If I stay in the forward location, I'll have trouble with the exhaust.

My main question is: Do trucks that came from the factory with a high transmission hump have more HEI/700r4 clearance than trucks with a short hump? It seems like some people have trouble with clearance and some don't. I'm tempted to move the engine back, but then I will have to modify the driveline and deal with tight clearances on the distributor. I can't remember for sure how close it was before, but before I move it back, I want to make sure that the transmission will clear the firewall.

Secondly, has anyone gotten exhaust to fit with stock manifolds and the engine in the forward perches? The exhaust guy says that he'll try to bend the exhaust to fit, but will make no guarantees.

I'm open to suggestions, what do you think?

Try this style it will make life easier, found on 69 and later 350 cars / trucks, plus what I `ve come to the conclusion is some people use differant trans mounts, ( height mounting position) which will dictate how close the disttributor or 700 r4 will reside at the body flange.

[SFTorange]

I found an exhaust guy who told me it should be no problem to get my original manifolds to work. I'll bring the truck in and see what he can do. I also like the look with the engine forward. I've taken care of everything else with moving it forward, so the exhaust should be the last thing.

[BarnFind]

Originally Posted by SFTorange

I found an exhaust guy who told me it should be no problem to get my original manifolds to work.

You gotta be flexable with the need to stay original. Locating the engine forward is stock for a 1967. Using the stock manifolds for a 67-72 will still have the stock appearance without the exhaust outlet headache. Just my.02 - Sean

[SFTorange]

Originally Posted by BarnFind

You gotta be flexable with the need to stay original. Locating the engine forward is stock for a 1967. Using the stock manifolds for a 67-72 will still have the stock appearance without the exhaust outlet headache. Just my.02 - Sean

I have a ton of flexibility, just not a lot of extra money. I might try to look for a set of 67-72 manifolds because I agree it would be easier. I'm just not sure how much they would cost.

I've already sandblasted and coated my original manifolds, and if I can get the exhaust bent up easily enough there's no reason to worry about it. If the original manifolds don't turn out then it's nice to know I'll have a fall back option.

Thanks for the input.

[Dusty457]

There is also a set of ram horn manifolds that angle back at the flange that probably would give you the clearance that you need that is what was on my 66 and the engine was set in the forward position also. Hope that helps.
thanks Dusty457

[SFTorange]

As usual, you can find out what you need on here with a little research. A lot of guys want to run the 2.5" Vette manifolds on their 67-72 trucks. Those manifolds dump straight down like ours. The following thread shows that a good exhaust guy can make the bend if he knows what he's doing.

http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/s...d.php?t=440965

[BarnFind]

Here is a pair that need a couple of studs but more than fair price. You should be able to get a pair for this price or cheaper. Just a thought. Sean
http://seattle.craigslist.org/skc/pts/2237754890.html