Be Cool Aluminum Power Cooling Modules (radiator with electric fans) is it worth it?

[Hazieview]

I have a sb400 and I live in texas where it can get well over the 100 degrees no problem. My engine should be around 450 hp or better at a best guess.

Just wondering if this aluminum radiator and dual electric fan setup was worth it. My truck is not a show truck by any means but I want to keep my engine cool as possible.

Well... What do you say for $1,694.95 ?

http://www.summitracing.com/parts/BCI-86013/


Brand Be Cool
Manufacturer's Part Number 86013
Part Type Radiators
Product Line Be Cool Aluminum Power Cooling Modules
Summit Racing Part Number BCI-86013

Radiator Style Crossflow
Overall Width (in) 35.000 in.
Overall Height (in) 21.000 in.
Row Quantity Dual-row
Radiator Finish Natural
Radiator Material Aluminum
Transmission Cooler Yes
Inlet Location Upper driver side
Inlet Size 1 3/8 in.
Outlet Location Lower passenger side
Outlet Size 1 5/8 in.
Core Height (in) 18.500 in.
Core Thickness (in) 2.000 in.
Core Width (in) 27.500 in.
Tube Size 1 in.
Fan Included Yes
Fan Diameter (in) 11.000 in.
Fan Quantity Dual
Maximum Fan CFM 2,780 cfm
Blade Color Black
Blade Material Plastic
Shroud Color Black
Shroud Material Plastic
Quantity Sold as a kit.
Notes With engine oil cooler.


Be Cool aluminum radiator power cooling modules are designed to properly cool your vehicle.

Kits include:

* Aluminum dual 1 in. core performance radiator with oval fluted tubes
* Aluminum fan mounting brackets or straps with hardware (where applicable)
* Diamond-cut, vented coolant recovery tank
* Fan wiring harness(es) with 40 amp relay(s)
* Be Cool billet radiator cap
* One 16 in., dual 11 in., or two 13 in. high-torque Euro black electric puller fan(s) (in selected kits)
* Natural or polished aluminum finish
* Bolt-in installation
* Fan upgrades sold separately

Warranty

[Restrorob]

That's alot of bones for a radiator set-up, I couldn't justify it on any of my rigs. But if ya got the green go for it !

[Hazieview]

I know! I feel the same way. I really want to run electric fans and an aluminum radiator but it just seems to expensive for an every day driver....

I really like the setup but hate the price. haha! Am I a little for considering this setup?

[cableguy0]

Theres no good reason whatsoever to drop 1700 bucks on a radiator and fans. A stock 4 core radiator for around 250 bucks and a junkyard dual fan setup for well under 100 bucks is all you need.

[Hazieview]

Originally Posted by cableguy0

Theres no good reason whatsoever to drop 1700 bucks on a radiator and fans. A stock 4 core radiator for around 250 bucks and a junkyard dual fan setup for well under 100 bucks is all you need.

I'd at least like to go with the aluminum radiator for sure. I've seen several for under $500.... Still too much?

http://www.summitracing.com/parts/BCI-60013/


Brand Be Cool
Manufacturer's Part Number 60013
Part Type Radiators
Product Line Be Cool Custom-Fit Aluminum Radiators
Summit Racing Part Number BCI-60013

Radiator Style Crossflow
Overall Width (in) 35.000 in.
Overall Height (in) 19.000 in.
Overall Thickness (in) 3.000 in.
Row Quantity Dual-row
Radiator Finish Natural
Radiator Material Aluminum
Transmission Cooler No
Inlet Size 1 1/2 in.
Outlet Size 1 3/4 in.
Core Height (in) 18.000 in.
Core Thickness (in) 2.000 in.
Core Width (in) 27.000 in.
Tube Size 1 in.
Fan Included No
Quantity Sold individually.
Notes 450 HP max, 1,000 HP max with electric fan(s).

[cableguy0]

In all reality the stock style copper/brass radiator will cool just as good or better than the aluminum aftermarket rads. If you want an aluminum rad just because thats fine but dont worry about spending big dollars on a trick piece that is totally not needed. These trucks dont have an airflow problem at all. Its really not an issue. Pretty much any decent new radiator 3 or 4 core will cool your engine. So long as everything else is up to par.

[Toxic Redline]

A cheaper way to find a radiator to cool well is get a radiator out of a dumptruck, there are penty that will fit out of the old chevy dumps, My friend bought one of those aluminium becool ones and it started leaking out of one of the welds in the corner,,, they did replace it but it took a week.

[tucsonjwt]

Just curious, have you already had a problem with overheating in your truck with this 450 hp engine? Why not use a stock thick radiator and see what happens - assuming you have a functioning temperature gauge you can keep an eye on it during hot weather. You could get an aftermarket temperature gauge with an audible annumciator when you go over a set temperature. I live in AZ desert and we can get hotter than your neighborhood. I have a stock 454 Goodwrench rebuilt engine(with factory A/C and oil cooler) and I have always had a thick 3 core Ready Rad radiator for 8 years with no overheating. I got a new one two summers ago for about $140 (less $35 salvage value for the old one.)
I have known street rodders who favor other aftermarket aluminum radiators over BeCool, so you might want to check out the competitors. I never liked aluminum radiators since the one I had in my 63 Corvette split window had the overflow fitting break off - back in the day, nobody wanted to fix it - different now I am sure.

[Restrorob]

Here's the radiator I bought for project 74; http://www.summitracing.com/parts/SUM-380331/

The two 1" cores cool just as well as a 4 core stocker....

And I'm doing the Jeep fan swap because it looks clean and is CHEAP; http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/s...d.php?t=254617

I just got the fan in last week from here; http://www.chryslerpartsdirect.com/

$73 plus change to my door !

Then you need a fan wiring/sensor kit or I've got one of these sensors ordered since I already have everything else already;http://haywireinc.com/catalog/produc...o4io8gvtgljkd5

This fan and sensor is going in my 97 GMC, Then I'll install the same in project 74....

[Orangetonicclicc]

Great question!!! Did you have to do any mods to this radiator? have you installed it yet. How is it working. What about the wiring for the fan?

[Restrorob]

Originally Posted by Orangetonicclicc

Great question!!! Did you have to do any mods to this radiator? have you installed it yet. How is it working. What about the wiring for the fan?

I assume you are asking me ? I had to fab brackets to hold the radiator in the 74 because it's a tad smaller than stock, It did keep the engine running cool with no problems for the short time I drove it before stripping it to the frame.

I haven't gotten too deep into the fan install on my 97 yet, But will be taking pics as I go.

Summit has the sensor kits;http://www.summitracing.com/parts/MRG-1992/

[Orangetonicclicc]

Originally Posted by Restrorob

I assume you are asking me ? I had to fab brackets to hold the radiator in the 74 because it's a tad smaller than stock, It did keep the engine running cool with no problems for the short time I drove it before stripping it to the frame.

I haven't gotten too deep into the fan install on my 97 yet, But will be taking pics as I go.

Summit has the sensor kits;http://www.summitracing.com/parts/MRG-1992/

Yes it was for you!!! Thanks, I'm needing to get me a radiator and electric fan. I too considered the Be Cool, but the price is outrageous. You can get a nice Marck Pulley Set for that price!!!! A entire full disc brake set chrome upgrade, A level 1 ART air suspension, and a nice set of 22inch Foose Nitrous Rims minus the tires, Trust me!!!! Look at my thread!!! Getting the Foose this week, It was a toss up on rims and Air ride!!! Static Drop and Rims won!!!! Just a few options.

[3r!c84]

ok talking about stock radiators. im still using my stock one that came with 305/th350 combo. i droped in a pretty healthy 400sbc still running stock clutch fan from the 305.still no heating problems. and 400sbcs are known to have heating problems. just my .02

[502ss]

Originally Posted by cableguy0

In all reality the stock style copper/brass radiator will cool just as good or better than the aluminum aftermarket rads. If you want an aluminum rad just because thats fine but dont worry about spending big dollars on a trick piece that is totally not needed. These trucks dont have an airflow problem at all. Its really not an issue. Pretty much any decent new radiator 3 or 4 core will cool your engine. So long as everything else is up to par.

I am not sure I fully agree. I had a standard 4 core copper rad in my 77 c10. When I put the 502 in it, it would keep it cool when moving but if you got stuck in traffic it would overheat. I put a be cool 5 core in it and even on the hottest summer days in traffic it never overheated.
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[85/05Silverado]

i got my aluminum rad from jegs they make a direct fit and universal fit ones they are 2- 1" cores i believe and then i got a 14" electric fan wth aluminum shroud from summit for it 300 for the rad and 160 for the fan/shroud combo

http://www.summitracing.com/parts/SUM-381006/
http://www.jegs.com/i/JEGS+Performan...51910/10002/-1

[GVazquez]

http://item.mobileweb.ebay.com/viewi...id=33805695721

I was thinking if getting one of these, they make them to fit 73-87, has anyone bought one??
Posted via Mobile Device

[Orangetonicclicc]

It's $1250.00 FROM jEGS WHICH IS STILL PRETTY STEEP HERE'S THE LINK:

http://www.jegs.com/i/Be+Cool+Radiat...-1#accessories

[SCOTI]

Originally Posted by GVazquez

http://item.mobileweb.ebay.com/viewi...id=33805695721

I was thinking if getting one of these, they make them to fit 73-87, has anyone bought one??

I've seen a couple of them in person & they're very decent looking parts. I'm not sure on how well they function but my bet would be every bit as good as a BeCool w/o getting robbed.

[gchemist]

No way!! I run a dual LS1 fan setup.


I do have a problem with the A/C. I'm fixing that problem this Spring. I'm installing a crossflow condensor. Then, I'm closing off the gap between the condensor and radiator. Max air flow across the condensor is need for cooling. I need to run my engine hot. Aluminum heads like heat for efficiency. I run an on/off swith of 205/190. It works great but the A/C suffers. Closing off the space/gap should help A/C cooling.

Read this article!
http://www.fordmuscle.com/archives/2...cfan/index.php

I may upgrade to the Mark VIII fan. I can use the low speed for A/C cooling. Max speed for engine cooling as necessary. A bypass switch on the low side is helpful too. The low speed is not nessary as long as speed is above 30 MPH. A bypass switch is great for long distance driving. I don't need run a 145 amp all the time.

[SCOTI]

Originally Posted by gchemist

No way!! I run a dual LS1 fan setup.


I do have a problem with the A/C. I'm fixing that problem this Spring. I'm installing a crossflow condensor. Then, I'm closing off the gap between the condensor and radiator. Max air flow across the condensor is need for cooling. I need to run my engine hot. Aluminum heads like heat for efficiency. I run an on/off swith of 205/190. It works great but the A/C suffers. Closing off the space/gap should help A/C cooling.

Read this article!
http://www.fordmuscle.com/archives/2...cfan/index.php

I may upgrade to the Mark VIII fan. I can use the low speed for A/C cooling. Max speed for engine cooling as necessary. A bypass switch on the low side is helpful too. The low speed is not nessary as long as speed is above 30 MPH. A bypass switch is great for long distance driving. I don't need run a 145 amp all the time.

Wouldn't it be the opposite.... low speed to maintain engine operating temp & high speed for when the a/c is enabled?

[SBTork]

A few years back I bought a new GM radiator for my '86 C10 and it was perfect. Aluminum with the plastic/composite side tanks, plenty good and also stock for any vehicle built in the last 10 years or so. I think I paid under $200 for it at the time. I still have it, not the truck, and will wind up putting it in my suburban when the stocker goes bad.

[CHROMAHOLIC]

http://www.prchotrod.com/

[Hazieview]

Originally Posted by 502ss

I am not sure I fully agree. I had a standard 4 core copper rad in my 77 c10. When I put the 502 in it, it would keep it cool when moving but if you got stuck in traffic it would overheat. I put a be cool 5 core in it and even on the hottest summer days in traffic it never overheated.
Posted via Mobile Device

Thanks for all the replies guys but this is the main thing that I'm concerned with right here.

I know it is hot temperature wise in other places but the humidity is what kills us in texas. 110 degress cought in bumper to bumper traffic (especailly during truck shows) with humidity that is rediculous you are worried about your truck that you invested a lot of money in.

My stock sb400 never had a problem with overheating unless I threw a belt.

I dont want to really spend a couple hundred bucks on a stock radiator only to find out it doesn't work and then that is money I could have spent on an aluminum radiator.

Is anyone actually running an aluminum radiator right now?

[Orangetonicclicc]

Originally Posted by CHROMAHOLIC

http://www.prchotrod.com/

I just called that Website. $750.00 to my door in Oklahoma. That's 2 fans, aluminum radiator, and harness. Only the brackets will need to be drilled for installation. Not a bad deal!!! I'm probably going to get on. They build them by request so it would take 3 weeks at the most.. Check the site out..
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[spudz]

I have bought runing, driving square bodys for less money then that radiator setup... Just so you know.... aluminum doesnt cool as good as the factory copper/brass. rad.. Its doesnt transfer heat the same way. Unless its a big money show truck..... your crazy to spend that much. If anything I would have a factory 4 core redone by a good radiator shop.