Holy Crap!!

[DRASTiK]

man did I just get lucky. A friend of mine had a 350 that his work was gonna scrap. There isn't anything wrong with it other than the fact that it has quite a few miles on it and it could use a rebuild. Well I spoke up and said that I'd take it so I could have a project motor to start on for when ever the motor in my 89 suburban dies. It was on it's last leg.

Well since then, my 89 was stolen and we got an 84 suburban with a crate motor in it that runs great.

He called me yesterday and told me we'd go and get this motor this morning. I said okay, and we went and got it. Not only did I get a complete motor minus a carb, but I got an alternator, starter, pwr steering pump, two water pumps, and all the brackets. Bonus!!

But wait, it only gets better. I dropped the pan on this motor a few minutes ago, and it's a 4 bolt main!! I asked him when we got it if it was a 2 or 4, and he laughed and said "if it was a 4 bolt main, I wouldn't be just GIVING it to anyone." He assured me it was a 2 bolt main, which is what I was expecting anyways, so it was a huge surprise to me when I saw the crank. This motor has never been bored over or machined in any way since it was made in 1978.

Sorry to gloat guys, it's just that lately I've had nothing but horrible luck, and now this happens and I just have to tell people who understand.

So all in all, I got a lot of spare parts, and a 350 4-bolt main for free. Instead of a stock rebuild, maybe I should be considering a 383 or something more fun. lol

Thanks for your time,
Dave

[MSL]

Man talk about falling into a bucket of sh@t and coming out smelling like a rose. Man i wished i was that lucky good deal i would build it up and that guy must not know much to give a motor away before checking it out.

[low 84]

congrats! thats a good block.

[Mike76251]

I have a spare 350 block that I got for free sitting around.
Here is how:
I bought a 350 4-bolt roller (rare bird) off of eBay for $300 plus shipping.
I won the auction and sent the money.
I talked to the seller a few days later and he said he would put the block in the mail the next day.
I waited a week and nothing.
Well.... three months, fifteen phone calls and twenty emails later he called.
I might add that by this time had filed a felony case of mail fraud, a FTC case, a eBay case, and several others in his hometown.
He only called when this heat had been applied.
He even asked why I was doing all this to poor little him.
I had made a mpeg of me mailing the payment to him at the post office and I just sent him a few frames off that.
I wound up getting a roller block, a new roller spider, new roller lifters, roller retainers, several Vette parts AND all my money back from this clown.

[apstguy]

Nice! A project to keep you busy

[fast71]

okay I dont mean to gloat either but I had the same thing happen to me recently . I was helping a friend clear his land and ifound this engine in the back of a old 72 long horn .He told me to take it home with me . Well it set in the garage for a month and then I took one of the valve covers off . the casting numbers as follows 3947041. I about died . I ran the suffix codes and found out she is from a 1969 a,f, or x body 350 cid 300 horse .

[DRASTiK]

well I didn't get lucky with the heads, 462624 (prone to cracking), and the crank isn't steel, it's cast, but you can't have your cake and eat it too sometimes. My friend is the head mechanic at a huge company and he just assumed that it was another run down plain old two bolt 350 that he deals with daily. I guess I just got the pick of the litter.

I need some suggestions on the smartest way to build this motor. I want to find a 67-69 camaro and use this motor for it. I want it to be a street warrior, but not an all out drag racer No more than 400hp.

It will see the track a few times, but it will also be used to drive on the street for whatever.

I'm definately not made of money, so budget is a big factor. I'm in no rush though, which is something new to me. I'm used to having a motor out of a vehicle that needs to be fixed ASAP. I've never had the opportunity to go through the bottom end of an engine at all because I never had time to try it myself. As far as the assembly of the rest of the engine, I've got plenty of experience there.

I'm asking you all for your personal opinions of how this engine should be built. It's a 1978 longblock that's never been rebuilt. I assume it will need to be bored .030 over, and I'd like forged pistons. I don't think I'll be buying a steel crank due to cost.

I also don't think I'll be able to buy a set of aluminum heads for this one, so if that's the case, what heads should I be searching for at local yards? Any casting numbers would be great. As far as the cam, I'll decide on that later. I'll go with something big enough to work well with a Performer RPM intake.

Should I just buy a new cast crank or have this one cut?

If new: Who sells a good quality rebuild kit that includes crank and bearings, rods, etc.?

If I turn the crank: again which parts are suggested for the build? I definately want to do this right the first time.

Should I be looking into a stroker, or just a built 355?

Tell me what YOU think please.

Thanks and sorry this is so long,
Dave

[Mike76251]

Originally posted by DRASTiK
well I didn't get lucky with the heads, 462624 (prone to cracking), and the crank isn't steel, it's cast

I'm definately not made of money, so budget is a big factor. I'm in no rush though, which is something new to me. I'm used to having a motor out of a vehicle that needs to be fixed ASAP. I've never had the opportunity to go through the bottom end of an engine at all because I never had time to try it myself. As far as the assembly of the rest of the engine, I've got plenty of experience there.

I'm asking you all for your personal opinions of how this engine should be built. It's a 1978 longblock that's never been rebuilt. I assume it will need to be bored .030 over, and I'd like forged pistons. I don't think I'll be buying a steel crank due to cost.

I also don't think I'll be able to buy a set of aluminum heads for this one, so if that's the case, what heads should I be searching for at local yards? Any casting numbers would be great. As far as the cam, I'll decide on that later. I'll go with something big enough to work well with a Performer RPM intake.

Should I just buy a new cast crank or have this one cut?

If new: Who sells a good quality rebuild kit that includes crank and bearings, rods, etc.?

If I turn the crank: again which parts are suggested for the build? I definately want to do this right the first time.

Should I be looking into a stroker, or just a built 355?

This is a tough one indeed.
Here is what I would do based on the info given;
Get some books on Small Blocks at the bookstore and read them.
Get a Jegs and Summit catalog.
Buy a complete engine kit from the many offered based on your budget.
Get a new Eagle cast crank with the kit.
Buy some World Products cast iron heads.
Buy a Fel Pro gasket set if it's not included.
A 355 will give you the power you seek.
A 383 is doable but it takes more work on the block (by you) and I don't know your level of your time in a machine shop or what tools you have so I can't say do it.

Take your time and check stuff twice when you assemble.
DO NOT use Plastigage. Get some real calipers made by Starret or the like and check clearences.
Check the machine shop's work fully.
Those books you need will have a blueprint section to show you how.
Prime the new engine before you install.
Never reuse lifters.
Lube the cam with the moly that comes with the Crane cam kit you need.
One thousand things I am forgetting but it is all in the books.

[1FaastC10]

Originally posted by Mike76251
I bought a 350 4-bolt roller (rare bird) off of eBay for $300 plus shipping.

Mike, i hate to burst your bubble, but ever 350 built after 1986 is a roller block and 90% of them are 4 bolt mains. 4 bolt mains arent really that rare altogether, and they arent THAT much stronger than a 2 bolt setup. however, it does sound like you scored pretty good on this one.

[DRASTiK]

will I need new main caps? I should only need new bearings and not caps right?

[1FaastC10]

i would recomend having the main bearing bored checked for wear. if they do happen to be out of spec the machine shop can cut the existing caps down a little bit, and straighten them right out.

[DRASTiK]

If you all wouldn't mind, I'd like your opinion on the following thread:

http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/s...threadid=47933