Sandblast or POR15

[longbed67]

So here is my predicament I just degreased and powerwashed my framerail today and turns out what I thought was surface rust was just grime and 85% of the rail is still covered in the factory paint. The other 15% not covered I either power-washed off when I got to close or is light surface rust and could be hand-sanded off. SO.... I already own the equipment and material to sandblast the entire frame and I already have POR-15, Do I take the time and blast the frame and take off the factory paint and start from bare metal and then POR-15 it, or do I just sand the factory paint to scuff it up and sand off any of the remaining rust and POR 15 the frame? Any thoughts or other ideas. On a side note it is not in my budget to pay someone to powder coat the frame as nice as that would look...

[darkone]

how bout hitting major problem areas only with the sandblast and then scuffing the rest? sandblasting the whole thing is a biotch, trust me, i know. ive done it. at least with the cab on it is..... in the snow.... with an underpowered 13horse compressor, and a ****ty eastwood sand pod. good luck suckuh!

[slikside]

Originally Posted by longbed67

So here is my predicament I just degreased and powerwashed my framerail today and turns out what I thought was surface rust was just grime and 85% of the rail is still covered in the factory paint. The other 15% not covered I either power-washed off when I got to close or is light surface rust and could be hand-sanded off. SO.... I already own the equipment and material to sandblast the entire frame and I already have POR-15, Do I take the time and blast the frame and take off the factory paint and start from bare metal and then POR-15 it, or do I just sand the factory paint to scuff it up and sand off any of the remaining rust and POR 15 the frame? Any thoughts or other ideas. On a side note it is not in my budget to pay someone to powder coat the frame as nice as that would look...

I have never used used POR-15, but have read several threads here from guys who have...what I remember:

You must follow the directions...EXACTLY in order for it to perform.

Part of that (I believe) is applying it to bare metal. So if you want to use it, you should blast the whole thing. And since you already have everything you need, maybe you should just go for it...blast it all, then POR.

Alternatively, you could just scuff up the factory, blast/sand the surface rust, and then just prime/paint the frame. I,e. not use the POR.

I'm sure others with experience will chime in.....good luck.

[turp mcspray]

As they say..."anything worth doing, is worth doing right!" If you are going through the trouble of a frame off, blast it to bare metal, and then do the POR. If you don't remember anything else anyone tells you, remember this...when your truck is finished, you will never say "I wish I would of half-assed it together."

[dfwright]

Count my vote for blasting the entire frame and then go with the POR-15. I don't think you'll regret giving it the works later.

[Ryan5O]

I just went through a quart of POR 15 over the weekend. Goes on real easy with a brush. If the body is still on the frame (like mine) wear gloves and long sleeves. The directions arent kidding when it says that if you get any on your skin and it dries, you will be wearing it for a few days. It made going to work the next day kinda interesting.

[Willys47]

isn't por15 paint over rust paint. Why not use a paint that is for bare metal? will the por hold to baer metal good? or dose it need rust to bond right

[jocko]

por 15 will work on bare metal - but you highlight a great question - IF you sand blast the rust, then POR 15 really shouldn't be necessary - you can simply apply chassis paint. On the other hand, POR 15 will probably last longer. Kinda like FOREVER, so not sure that is always a good thing. But either way - agree with the folks that recommend blasting first. I would not think POR 15 would work very well over scuffed paint. My 2c.

[Ryan5O]

When I ran across some spots with paint, the POR 15 wouldnt adhere to it all.

[1972hays]

both

[OJ1988]

When painting non rusted metel with por15, you must first use there etching wipe.

[cdowns]

dont use POR15 on painted surfaces it will not go on good or last goodly

[leddzepp]

Originally Posted by OJ1988

When painting non rusted metel with por15, you must first use there etching wipe.

correct.

[longbed67]

Looks like I will be pulling the motor and trans and all the lines off on thursday night and Blasting on Friday! Which leaves Sat. to Paint! Thanks for all the input!

[dfleming7]

Originally Posted by longbed67

Looks like I will be pulling the motor and trans and all the lines off on thursday night and Blasting on Friday! Which leaves Sat. to Paint! Thanks for all the input!

I sandblasted the rusty areas and then put the acid on. POR15 on the entire frame. It came out pretty nicely.

[ChevLoRay]

I had mine sandblasted, then we painted it with some black low-gloss paint from Tractor Supply, with a hardener added. I feel good about it.

[1972hays]

i hate to do this but we need frame pics

[808_67C10]

Wire brush.. Soak with kbs clean and kbs it! It's a lot easier and cheaper than por15.... Imho - holds up just as good! I have used both but like the kbs better
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[fastwillie 696969]

anytime you can sandblast and take it down and repaint the frame. powdercoated it too

[Street Smart]

Originally Posted by 808_67C10

Wire brush.. Soak with kbs clean and kbs it! It's a lot easier and cheaper than por15.... Imho - holds up just as good! I have used both but like the kbs better
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Sorry for the rookie question, but whats "kbs".

[fishingjred73]

Originally Posted by Street Smart

Sorry for the rookie question, but whats "kbs".

http://www.kbs-coatings.com/rustseal.html

[turp mcspray]

Por and its variants, are whats called "moisture cured urethane". They work excellent over sandblasted surfaces. They require a rough surface to properly adhere. Yes POR stands for "paint over rust" but when you apply the metal etch, that product is left on the surface for the por to stick to. It isn't actually touching the rust. The name is a little misleading.
Moisture cured urethanes have been around for a very long time. Originally designed for bridges, water pipes etc, that would spend their lives subject to an extreme enviornments. Someone came up with the idea to market them to the automotive market, and the rest is history, as they say.

[JON70CST]

When I built my 68, I sandblasted the complete frame, and then applied POR 15. That is what I would recommend as it worked great! and I guarantee would last for a very very long time. It can be a bit of a pain sandblasting the whole frame if you don't have the right equipment, but if you can get your hands on it, and take the time to do it it'll more than pay off in the long run. Just my two cents

[Street Smart]

Originally Posted by fishingjred73

http://www.kbs-coatings.com/rustseal.html

Thanks!

[longbed67]

Here is the framerail before blasting... I have started blasting but have not finished... I will post photos after blasting...and after POR 15