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11-27-2011, 12:45 AM | #1 |
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1972 C10 350 Charging Issue
I dont know whats going on here, but my battery keeps getting drained to the point where I cant start my truck. I replaced the battery a week ago trying to solve the issue and it seemed to do the trick, until this morning I went out to start it and it didnt have enough juice. So naturally I assume it's the alternator, so I bring it in and have it tested at autozone. They tell me it's good and is charging 14.6v. So I buy a new voltage regulator, and install that in my truck. Heres the weird thing, if I start my truck and check the voltage coming from the red wire on the back of the alternator, its at 12.6v... i get the same reading on the battery, it seems to fluctuate between 12.6v and 13.10v depending on how long i let it run after jumping it. I'm seriously stumped, I have cleaned the battery cables and the ground to the engine. Tested all the wires going from the positive distribution block and they are putting out the same voltage as the batter post. What else could be wrong?
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11-27-2011, 01:15 AM | #2 |
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Re: 1972 C10 350 Charging Issue
How long have you owned the truck? Are you certain to not turn the key all the way back when you remove the key? Bad habit....
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11-27-2011, 01:19 AM | #3 |
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Re: 1972 C10 350 Charging Issue
Nah thats not the problem, thanks though =) also would like to note that there is no stereo installed in this truck, the dome light has been disconnected at the fuse block. I'm going to go through all the fuses tomorrow
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11-27-2011, 01:33 AM | #4 |
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Re: 1972 C10 350 Charging Issue
I would say there may be something shorted, therefore drawing current...like an antennae, parking light , taillamp...
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Bagged | 6.0L LS | T-56 (6-Speed Manual) | Turbo Burnout/Rolling Video: Chevy C10 Stepside 6.0L LSx & 6-Speed Manual |
11-27-2011, 02:24 AM | #5 |
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Re: 1972 C10 350 Charging Issue
with all of the wires going to the alternator disconnected, and the engine running off the battery, what should the voltage be coming from the circled connector?
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11-27-2011, 02:48 AM | #6 |
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Re: 1972 C10 350 Charging Issue
Trick question?
Disconnected alternator should have 0 volts if not mistaken, as it s not being used to charge if inactive. When driving under throttle, I'd say north of 13 volts (13.8 or so). Posted via Mobile Device
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Best Regards, Leon M. Instagram: @TheDirtyDianah
Bagged | 6.0L LS | T-56 (6-Speed Manual) | Turbo Burnout/Rolling Video: Chevy C10 Stepside 6.0L LSx & 6-Speed Manual |
11-27-2011, 03:11 AM | #7 |
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Re: 1972 C10 350 Charging Issue
You most probably have a wire chafed to ground somewhere. Until you figure it out, keep your battery disconnected so it won't drain. Quickest way to check is to see if there's a little spark when you hook the battery up with the key off and truck not running. Easier to see at night. If you have a spark, disconnect wires until you don't; then you'll know which circuit is causing the evil.
Kinda hard to explain. Wish you were closer, I'd give you a hand. |
11-27-2011, 12:10 PM | #8 |
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Re: 1972 C10 350 Charging Issue
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Unhook the + battery cable and connect a multi-meter between the post and cable to see if there is a draw with the switch off. If there is remove the fuses one at a time. Check the meter each time. You only have to pop one side of the fuse up, you don't have to remove it all the way. LockDoc
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11-27-2011, 12:44 PM | #9 |
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Re: 1972 C10 350 Charging Issue
Most of those fuses aren't energized with the key off. I got a dollar says his problem is before the fuse box.
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11-27-2011, 01:57 PM | #10 |
Who's got steelies?
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Re: 1972 C10 350 Charging Issue
Does your horn work? I ask because the horn relay is not fused. If there is power to the relay, it will drain the battery. Unplug the relay under the dash. If you hear it click, you know it was drawing current. Other than that, there are only a few things that are hot at all times thru the fuses. The 3 15A fuses labeled Traffic Hazard, Tail Stop Dome, and Gl. Box & Spot Lp. Are the only ones hot with the key off.
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1969 C10 LWB W/ 250 I6 & 3spd 1970 C10 with '67 small window cab, 68 front end, blue; 305/TH350, 3.08 limited slip rear end, manual brakes, power steering; & 4-wheel drums-My daily driver. 1975 Chevelle Malibu Classic Coupe 350/th350 mint green 1970 C20 Suburban 350/700R4 4.10 gearing green & white 1978 Big 10 Silverado 350/th350, working ac, 2 tone blue-My summer daily driver 1983 GMC 1500 Sierra 305/SM465 2.73 rear end How to add a trip odometer to your 67-72 stock speedometer How to rebuild your Q-Jet My Truck Page My Youtube Channel Last edited by oldgold70c10; 11-27-2011 at 02:01 PM. Reason: changed attachment |
11-27-2011, 07:14 PM | #11 |
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Re: 1972 C10 350 Charging Issue
Thank you for all this information, I will check out some of these solutions when the weather leats up. Unfortunately I dont have a garage =( I will update you with what I find
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11-27-2011, 07:16 PM | #12 |
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Re: 1972 C10 350 Charging Issue
also the truck seems to be holding at 13.10v while running after I changed the voltage regulator. Is this good enough to keep the battery charged?
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11-27-2011, 08:39 PM | #13 |
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Re: 1972 C10 350 Charging Issue
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11-27-2011, 09:12 PM | #14 | |
The Older Generation
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Re: 1972 C10 350 Charging Issue
Quote:
LockDoc
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11-27-2011, 09:51 PM | #15 |
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Re: 1972 C10 350 Charging Issue
No, with the engine running the alternater should be producing electricity I assume?
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11-27-2011, 10:27 PM | #16 |
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Re: 1972 C10 350 Charging Issue
Unless it's a permanent Magnet rotor you won't get anything out of it no matter how fast you spin the engine.
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