Coil spring compressor type to buy?

[lwb66step]

Anyone own one? I would rather buy one than borrow from the parts counter. Which one is best? Thanks. I have a 63 coils on all 4 corners...
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[S-31]

My opinion- Dont waste your money on a spring compressor. All four springs on these trucks can easily be removed with a jack, jackstands and basic hand tools.

[lwb66step]

It's cool I like to keep all my fingers lol...safety first as they always tell me.
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[lwb66step]

Plus installing the once they are out seems easier with the spring compressed....IMHO
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[XtechX]

Just run a piece of chain through the control arm and through the bottom of the coil on the front and put your floor jack under the lower control arm, break the ball joint loose and then lower the control arm down with the jack. The spring will fall out of the pocket and will be secured with the chain. Remove the chain, pull out the spring, done. No compressor needed. The back comes out real easy, undo the bolts that hold the top spring keeper in place and jack up the frame in the back and the tension is completely off the springs undo the bottom keeper bolts and out come the springs.

[trevrolet65]

Yeah leave the ball joint nut on the ball joint, just loosen it up with all the threads in the nut part holding. Wack it with a seperator tool, jack up to loosen the nut and let down the jack slowly, the spring will be unsprung and just fall out. Nothing to it

[Born Lucky]

I just recently installed new springs, (2in drop), and I have to say that I really did not need to use a coil spring compressor. Before starting the project I rented the tool from AutoZone, as SAFETY was number one concern.
Right from the start I realized that I did not need the tool. I used a jack to support the lower control arm( this allowed me to remove my upper ball joint nut) and slowly released the control arm. The spring came loose and I handled it with my hands.

[markeb01]

I’ve owned mine for about 35 years and use it every time I replace front springs. It was a reasonably expensive version of the internal type that looks like this:



It also made it easy to assemble my front suspension before it was installed in the truck:



I’ve seen cheaper versions start to unbend the arms under tension, or partially strip the center bolt. So rather than buying a cheap model it would probably be wiser to rent a commercial spring compressor if you choose to use one.

A compressor may not be essential on short springs, but most of my installations have been either full length stock springs or station wagon versions that are even stronger or taller. And even when using a spring compressor I always install a safety chain through the spring and lower control arm, with the ends of the chain connected together with a bolt. The few minutes it takes to use safety equipment just seems like cheap insurance compared to getting hit with a flying spring in the unlikely event something goes wrong.

I’ve never used a compressor on the rear springs of our trucks because they just aren’t needed. Spring tension is completely relaxed once the control arms are lowered.

I won’t replace the tool I already have because it will rarely if ever get used again, but if I were just starting out now the external type shown below might be easier to use. I don’t remember these being available when I bought mine:

[blackedoutharley]

Apparently some people have never seen what can happen with an unrestrained spring coming out....

I use the one shown in Markeb01's first photo.

The rears are not a big deal but it makes the fronts much easier (and safer) to install.

[61_FL_Apache]

Originally Posted by S-31

My opinion- Dont waste your money on a spring compressor. All four springs on these trucks can easily be removed with a jack, jackstands and basic hand tools.

I agree with this. I never used one either. Just take the shock off and pop one of the ball joints and there ya go. Make sure you have a jack under it.

[lwb66step]

Originally Posted by markeb01

I’ve owned mine for about 35 years and use it every time I replace front springs. It was a reasonably expensive version of the internal type that looks like this:



It also made it easy to assemble my front suspension before it was installed in the truck:



I’ve seen cheaper versions start to unbend the arms under tension, or partially strip the center bolt. So rather than buying a cheap model it would probably be wiser to rent a commercial spring compressor if you choose to use one.

A compressor may not be essential on short springs, but most of my installations have been either full length stock springs or station wagon versions that are even stronger or taller. And even when using a spring compressor I always install a safety chain through the spring and lower control arm, with the ends of the chain connected together with a bolt. The few minutes it takes to use safety equipment just seems like cheap insurance compared to getting hit with a flying spring in the unlikely event something goes wrong.

I’ve never used a compressor on the rear springs of our trucks because they just aren’t needed. Spring tension is completely relaxed once the control arms are lowered.

I won’t replace the tool I already have because it will rarely if ever get used again, but if I were just starting out now the external type shown below might be easier to use. I don’t remember these being available when I bought mine:

This is what iwas looking for. The "internal" type compressor seems sturdier to me. I will post pics after springs are cut. Thanks everyone for their input!
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[old cruiser]

I use the jack method also no probs. Note as xtechx said "floor jack" or trolly jack . Don,t rely on a bottle or screw type jack , only a quality safe sturdy jack.

[joeydirt]

anyone know if the spring compressors that advanced auto parts rents will work?

[hd74]

do not waste your money or time,just use a floor jack..

[joeydirt]

do I need to worry about damaging the bj or should it be replaced at the same time? is it possible to remove the control arm pivot bolt instead?

[LostMy65]

I'd feel kinda nervous recommending someone do it a way that has risks no matter how unlikely the risk.

Slim chance, but still likely Scenario;
Jack slips. Spring flies out and smacks you or someone else in the head.
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[ljackson]

Originally Posted by XtechX

Just run a piece of chain through the control arm and through the bottom of the coil on the front and put your floor jack under the lower control arm, break the ball joint loose and then lower the control arm down with the jack. The spring will fall out of the pocket and will be secured with the chain. Remove the chain, pull out the spring, done. No compressor needed. The back comes out real easy, undo the bolts that hold the top spring keeper in place and jack up the frame in the back and the tension is completely off the springs undo the bottom keeper bolts and out come the springs.

^This method will eliminate most of the risk of the spring leaving unexpectedly.

[Idaho64GMC]

I've always just used 2 plates and a threaded rod. worked on a 1 ton so I'm sure it will work on these little springs

[Brad54]

I have one of the internal compressors shown, and another with the fingers on one end, and at the nut-end there's a Y-shaped plate that slips past the shaft with the fingers grabbing the spring on one side, and the tail grabs it on the other side.

I've found that you will sometimes run out of room, as the shaft will bottom-out in the top of the spring pocket, before the spring is compressed enough to come out. It's that way on my '56 and '57 Chevy, a couple of Novas/Camaros I've worked on, and my '54 Buick. The fix is to take a 2-inch length of black pipe and install it between the adjuster nut and the lower set of fingers, taking up the "slack" or excess length of the shaft.

I absolutely think you need these compressors to get the fronts out.

for the rear, they aren't captured in a top and bottom pocket, and they aren't under compression like the fronts are. On the front, the lower control arm never fully lowers, taking away the compression.

Out back, you can jack up the back of the truck until the rear wheels are just barely off the ground, and the springs are fully uncompressed--they're under no pressure and have no stored energy. At that point you can safely unbolt them and pull them away.

-Brad

[64fleetside]

I've done it hundreds of times, never even got close to having one come flying out-if you are using lowering springs up front they will simply fall into place. You need a quality, wide-set, heavy, 3 ton or so floor/trolley jack capable of around 20" of lift. Those skinny little ones you keep in the car trunk is not enough. Jack the truck up on stands high enough so the lower arm can drop far enough for the spring to come out. Keep the jack parallel to the truck so that it won't roll. You should be up front using the handle so you are not in line with anything. Line up the lower spring end in the lower arm, jack up the arm until the ball joint can be seated in the spindle.

[joeydirt]

so can this be done without damaging the bj or do you replace them at the same time?

[russellrox]

Did you compress the spring then install it into the control arms? Or did you use the compressor through the bottom of the lower control arm hole to compress the spring? My truck is disassembled right now and not enough weight on it to go with a jack to install the spring.

[urmyboyblue]

I have always used a jack and a chain. Works and is not dangerous, just use a real chain. By the time the A arm is down low enough to let the spring come out, most if not all of the spring compression is relieved.

As for the Advance Auto spring compressor- I borrowed one from them or O Riellies and it worked great on a 2004 Crown Vic. DO NOT buy one from Harbor Freight. One of those broke under load with me.

[Bigdav160]

This is the style I own. Seems pretty safe to use:

[Shaky]

I'm planning on buying a decent one...