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05-12-2003, 02:16 PM | #1 |
"Ochre Ogre"
Join Date: Apr 2000
Location: Springfield, MN
Posts: 3,558
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4x4 raised steering arm removal
Is there a trick to removing the stock steering arm? I left my truck with the mechanic to finish the 4" lift spring install. The last thing to install is the raised arm. The old one just doesn't come off. Any helpfull hints????
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Bowtie Truck Stop Inc. Mid-West GM Truck Restoration Parts Supplier Your Key Parts, Auto Metal Direct, Dynacorn, and Goodmark dealer. like us @ www.facebook.com/BowtieTruckStop 1971 C-10 Suburban (Ochre) 1971 K-10 Suburban (Ochre) 1972 C-10 Suburban (Ochre) 1972 K-20 Suburban (Yellow- that just aint right!) Springfield, Minnesota 56087 |
05-12-2003, 03:19 PM | #2 |
Registered User
Join Date: Dec 1999
Location: Old Mission, MI, USA
Posts: 2,510
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Hit it from the side, hard, with a big hammer. You want to hit from the side right next to the studs, one at a time. This will deform the holes in the arm (momentarily) so that the cone washers that are in there will break loose. It is the same idea that is used to get tie rod ends and drag link ends to separate.
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Tim |
05-12-2003, 08:35 PM | #3 |
user # 2756
Join Date: Jun 2001
Location: Chesapeake, Virginia
Posts: 4,612
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Like Tim said hit it from the sides (I used the back of a 3.5lb axe). Trying to strike from the bottom or using a jack and the vehicle weight to remove will only make them tighter.
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1970 K25, 8' stepside bed 350/465/205 44 up front, 60 in the rear 4.10s rolling on 33" Dunlop MTs 1986 K5, 350/465/208 Dana 60/14 bolt from a cucv 36" Super Swampers TSL/SX 1983 K20 w/ CUCV axles, 350/700R4/208 sitting on 37" Goodyears 1986 M1031 6.2 diesel, TH400/NP205 locker in the rear and a LS in the front, all stock for now..... 1986 K30, 350/400/205 dana 60 and 14 bolt. I kept the drivetrain. Body/bad and chassis are gone. 1981 K30, 350/465/205 dana 60 and dually 14 bolt. Has a G80, and a flat bed. Going to replace the flat bed. 1985 K20, 350/400/208 10 bolt and SF 14 bolt. I wonder where I can find some 1 tons. Hmmmmm |
05-12-2003, 10:57 PM | #4 |
Registered User
Join Date: Dec 1999
Location: Austin, TX, USA
Posts: 7,723
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Sometimes they are a BEE-OTCH to get off. To say the least. Soak them in penetrating oil and use an air chisel at the top. This worked on one of mine. Next thing is to put some heat on the wedges. I FINALLY got mine out after a couple of sessions with hammers, chisels, oil and heat. FYI, I had to go get new tapered shims.
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05-12-2003, 11:08 PM | #5 |
"Ochre Ogre"
Join Date: Apr 2000
Location: Springfield, MN
Posts: 3,558
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Oh this sounds like so much fun! I am starting to remember why I stayed away from 4x4's for the first 24 years of vehicle ownership.
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Bowtie Truck Stop Inc. Mid-West GM Truck Restoration Parts Supplier Your Key Parts, Auto Metal Direct, Dynacorn, and Goodmark dealer. like us @ www.facebook.com/BowtieTruckStop 1971 C-10 Suburban (Ochre) 1971 K-10 Suburban (Ochre) 1972 C-10 Suburban (Ochre) 1972 K-20 Suburban (Yellow- that just aint right!) Springfield, Minnesota 56087 |
05-13-2003, 07:35 AM | #6 |
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Join Date: Jun 2001
Location: Houston, TX
Posts: 126
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Not everything is as big a PITA as that steering arm. The 1-ton front axles are easier to work on. The steering arm is held on by 4 1/2" nuts (on studs.) Easy. Also, no ball joints - very easy to rebuild and not special tools.
Once you get the steering arm off you'll feel better -- Mike
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http://home.houston.rr.com/chevy73/ |
05-13-2003, 12:15 PM | #7 |
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Join Date: Jul 2001
Location: utica, oh,
Posts: 249
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Yep beat the sh!t out of it with a 3 lb mini sledge and some time after your arm wears out it will come off. I was helping a friend do his one time and he offered a free steak dinner to the person that got it off. I beat on that thing till i couldn't feel my arms any more then his dad hit it three time and it fell off on the floor.
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69 3/4 ton 4x4 gmc with 6" sky jacker soft ride. 350 / th350 / 205 work in progress |
05-13-2003, 12:56 PM | #8 |
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Join Date: Feb 2001
Location: East Central, MO
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Ah come on guys they all arent that bad! LOL You have to hold your mouth in the right position and say the right words.
694x4 you should have wacked it 3 more times! LOL |
05-13-2003, 04:56 PM | #9 |
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Join Date: Jul 2001
Location: utica, oh,
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Trust me mudder i was saying some words maybe not the right ones but words all the same.
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69 3/4 ton 4x4 gmc with 6" sky jacker soft ride. 350 / th350 / 205 work in progress |
05-14-2003, 01:34 PM | #10 |
"Ochre Ogre"
Join Date: Apr 2000
Location: Springfield, MN
Posts: 3,558
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It's off!!! And what a diff it made in the steering. Now I have the complete Tuff Country 4" lift kit on the truck at all 4 corners.
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Bowtie Truck Stop Inc. Mid-West GM Truck Restoration Parts Supplier Your Key Parts, Auto Metal Direct, Dynacorn, and Goodmark dealer. like us @ www.facebook.com/BowtieTruckStop 1971 C-10 Suburban (Ochre) 1971 K-10 Suburban (Ochre) 1972 C-10 Suburban (Ochre) 1972 K-20 Suburban (Yellow- that just aint right!) Springfield, Minnesota 56087 |
05-15-2003, 10:47 PM | #11 |
Senior Member
Join Date: Mar 2003
Location: Colfax-California
Posts: 8,592
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arm
For future removal for any one. I do these all day long and for the stubborn ones after soaking and side hitting try this also--- put the nuts on half way and with an air chisel with blunt end [such as you would use to blow out rivets thru the frame] hit the top of the stud also. The nut prevents damage to the threads-most of the time.
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05-18-2003, 12:43 AM | #12 |
No Brakes Club
Join Date: Jan 2003
Location: Carthage, N.C.
Posts: 263
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Hit it from the side! That's how I got mine off when doing my lift. Just tap it on the sides and watch for the cone washers to start lifting up. Then you can just pull them up and then the whole thing will slide off.
Hope this helped? Later,
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05-31-2003, 07:06 PM | #13 |
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Location: 283 Small Block ln. apt k10 Chevyland N.J.
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take the wheel and breake assembley off, heat it till it glows, then hit the snot out of it with a heavy hammer.The tech from tuff country told me to hit it wuth a soft hammer, I told him that the 5lb maul that I used must have been to heavy....
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