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Old 07-09-2012, 08:26 PM   #1
cfan10
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Cool Switching worth the trouble...

My pwr locks work fine, windows no longer work. They were working last September, now nothing. Really just tired of having to mess with 'em, this may sound nuts but I'm considering wind down windows.

Does it make more sense to try to get this working right, or just go manual?

Is it possible to switch from pwr to manual without changing doors out?

How much work/money am I looking at?

Window motors are fairly new, switches are in good shape. How do I trace down window wires to my alarm to find out if the problem is connected (alarm isn't working right)?

84 swb 305
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Old 07-09-2012, 08:39 PM   #2
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Re: Switching worth the trouble...

Put some power to the motors. one wire when positive moves the window up, the other down when it gets power.

The window motor gets ground from being bolted to the door.
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Old 07-09-2012, 09:59 PM   #3
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Re: Switching worth the trouble...

I love Manual windows. I wish I had a set of 4 for my Suburban, its the only truck out of my 4 vehicles that has power doors . And guess what....They don't work. Goes down a few inches and just starts making a clicking grinding sound.

If it's a constant problem for you id say switch to manual. but check the harness and beakers/fuses first to make sure it's not a small issue. or Just install manual windows and never look back.
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Old 07-10-2012, 02:42 AM   #4
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Re: Switching worth the trouble...

Before giving up, I would just remove the plug on the end of the motor and insert a 12V tester in the motor plug ends, then operate the window switch to see if you get power when operating the window switch. My problem was that the plug at the window switch was defective and gave intermittent contact. You can still buy that plug as part of that short harness from AC Delco. My experience is that the switches are rarely the problem but are what we all replace first. I had my best luck with AC Delco motors, but I did get one with an unknown loose connector on the end of the motor - another intermittent no power situation. If you have power then it may be the regulator binding up - I went aftermarket with my regulator and it was junk, so I would stick with Delco if that was the problem - more than likely it will just be the plastic regulator wheels, but those are hard to find exact replacements and they are spot welded in place.
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Old 07-10-2012, 04:21 AM   #5
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Re: Switching worth the trouble...

first see if you have power on the driver side door switch for the both sides they ground back through the switch to a common ground not the door. look at wiring diragram. it will show u how they work and what wires do what. thw two wires that go to the motor are both power and ground, depends on the way u push the switch. also check the fuse that powers it sometime its something simple.
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Old 07-11-2012, 03:03 PM   #6
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Re: Switching worth the trouble...

piece of cake do go from power to manual
did that in the 88 burb
found wires cracked in door opening
unbolt and bolt in...
only thing i regretted was waiting so long to do it

oh and not having any rear motors from the factory didn't help
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Old 07-11-2012, 03:07 PM   #7
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Re: Switching worth the trouble...

If you can obtain used manual regulators to keep the costs way down it would be a worthwhile swap. Otherwise those motors are pretty dang cheap compared to a new regulator.
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Old 07-27-2012, 06:06 AM   #8
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Re: Switching worth the trouble...

So a power door on a 89 suburban already has the holes to install manual regulators???? What about the track glued to the window itself, is that the same for manual?
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Old 07-27-2012, 06:37 AM   #9
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Re: Switching worth the trouble...

Quote:
Originally Posted by motomech View Post
So a power door on a 89 suburban already has the holes to install manual regulators???? What about the track glued to the window itself, is that the same for manual?
Bolts right in ,yup
And the crank comes out where the switch goes
The only issue is your drivers power door panel has a 4switch hole
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Old 07-27-2012, 06:49 AM   #10
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Re: Switching worth the trouble...

Quote:
Originally Posted by motomech View Post
So a power door on a 89 suburban already has the holes to install manual regulators???? What about the track glued to the window itself, is that the same for manual?
Most if not all auto manufacturers design the door to mount both manual and power regulators. One door shell stamping equals lower production costs.

The track to mount the regulator should be the same as well.
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Old 07-27-2012, 07:25 AM   #11
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Re: Switching worth the trouble...

I'm so doing this x4 on the suburban. maybe I can keep my power locks as well.
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Old 07-27-2012, 07:43 AM   #12
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Re: Switching worth the trouble...

might be a gap issue,make sure to get the foam doughnut for support
my 87 burb had the crank and power locks
those panels are now in the 78 jimmy
with the 89 inserts to match the buckets
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Last edited by motornut; 07-27-2012 at 01:19 PM.
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Old 07-27-2012, 02:55 PM   #13
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Re: Switching worth the trouble...

You should do a write up on this! So what did you do with the window wiring harness? Did you strip all the unnecessary wires and just make it a power lock harness?

So I would need?

4 manual window regulators
4 foam rings
4 window cranks

Strip the harness to just a locking harness???? What else?
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Old 07-27-2012, 03:56 PM   #14
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Cool Re: Switching worth the trouble...

Quote:
Originally Posted by motornut View Post
might be a gap issue,make sure to get the foam doughnut for support
my 87 burb had the crank and power locks
those panels are now in the 78 jimmy
with the 89 inserts to match the buckets
Adorable pooch. I was wondering about this as well, but I think I fixed the issue with mine, the driver switch black wire was off the switch contact. Only issue now is the windows are moving snail slow, oh well.
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Old 07-27-2012, 05:19 PM   #15
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Re: Switching worth the trouble...

pulled the main four bolts,push it in
between moving the window and sliding the arm ,
you get to a spot to remove it from the track

i removed to under dash as i was going to swap this 89 to the 88 solve all the probs
you see my 88 rear door ahead,
turns out that switch was lock lol not window
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Old 07-27-2012, 07:27 PM   #16
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Re: Switching worth the trouble...

OK Now I am on the hunt for all the parts needed to convert from power to manual. Glad all the holes are there to make this an easy bolt in swap. This is gonna be so nice.
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1989 V2500 Suburban 350/400.. SOLD!
1974 C10 Custom10 LWB 350/350.. SOLD!
1974 C10 Custom10 SWB 350/400.. SOLD!
1999 Silverado Z71 LS1.. Wife's rig WRECKED!
On the hunt for a new project.......
I'm a Chevy guy.....I'm just not a "NEW" Chevy guy.
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Old 07-27-2012, 07:45 PM   #17
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Re: Switching worth the trouble...

Looks like the manual regulators for the rear doors are more expensive and hard to find. Are they really different or can I use front regulators on the back door's????
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1987 K10 Silverado 383/400.. Wife's rig WRECKED!
1989 V2500 Suburban 350/400.. SOLD!
1974 C10 Custom10 LWB 350/350.. SOLD!
1974 C10 Custom10 SWB 350/400.. SOLD!
1999 Silverado Z71 LS1.. Wife's rig WRECKED!
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Old 07-27-2012, 10:52 PM   #18
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Re: Switching worth the trouble...

Sometimes a little cleaning will do wonders. I Cleaned my motor contacts and plugs on my other 87 , and had them working again in about 20 min. These motors really hold up well. this cost me only time
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Old 07-28-2012, 01:13 PM   #19
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Re: Switching worth the trouble...

Quote:
Originally Posted by motomech View Post
Looks like the manual regulators for the rear doors are more expensive and hard to find. Are they really different or can I use front regulators on the back door's????
nope they are diff i think i got a front/back here in pics....
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