09-09-2012, 10:27 PM | #1 |
Registered User
Join Date: Aug 2012
Location: N Texas
Posts: 136
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Break Help
Hey everyone. So when driving around yesterday in my 72 K5 I almost rear ended a guy at a stop sign...STOOD on my breaks and really didn't think I was going to be able to stop, but thankfully I did. The break felt super hard, like I could only push it in an inch at most..so I talked with a friend that is more mechanically inclined than I am, not saying much, and he said 'oh yeah, it's your power break booster'...sounded good to me so I ordered a new booster, picked it up today, and surprisingly was able to install it without much fuss at all in about 30 minutes. Problem is that I am having the same exact problems with the new booster that I was having with the old booster..break is super hard, hardly pushes down at all. So, I started looking around the engine and found where the hose connects to the intake from the booster, and in the picture is what I found..a connector with 3 outlets, 1 of which was for the break booster hose, and the other 2 just open..looks like maybe they had some sort of cover on them at some point..but nothing now. I started the truck back up, and with the air filter removed was able to feel that these 2 ports were just sucking in air. My question is are these 2 ports supposed to be open or closed? Perhaps they should be closed, and since they are open I'm not getting good vacuum? What are some ways I can test this for sure? If it is a simple as covering these 2 ports, then maybe the other booster was fine and I didn't need to spend the $$ on a new one?
Any advise is greatly appreciated! |
09-09-2012, 10:41 PM | #2 |
Registered User
Join Date: Sep 2007
Location: pontiac, illinois
Posts: 85
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Re: Break Help
they should be closed. and yes they could be affecting the brakes also the idle of the engine.
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09-10-2012, 12:38 AM | #3 |
20' Daredevil (Ret)
Join Date: May 2003
Location: Jefferson State
Posts: 13,722
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Re: Break Help
Yup. Any chance you can return that new booster for a refund? BTW with those open ports, you should hear a loud sucking sound (like an air leak).
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- Mike - 1972 K20 LWB 350/350/205 RIP El Jay |
09-10-2012, 09:10 AM | #4 |
Registered User
Join Date: Aug 2012
Location: N Texas
Posts: 136
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Re: Break Help
Great, thanks guys..I'll test this out today as soon as I get the little valve covers. Stocker-it was a refurb booster..$100 at Oreilly...I'll cover those valves and check the new booster that is on, then put the old one on and check again. I don't know what their policy is, but based on the number of trips I've made there in the past 3 weeks, I'd hope they'd accept a return...I'll just be turning around and giving them the $100 back on something else anyways
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09-10-2012, 09:21 AM | #5 |
Active Member
Join Date: Jul 2007
Location: Centrally located between Houston, Austin and Waco. BCS area.
Posts: 7,947
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Re: Break Help
Probably can't return the booster but if it works good you're better off. I dismantled one of my old ones and the insides were all rust and the rubber seals were hardened from sitting in the sun.
Be sure and redo the idle and maybe the carb settings after you plug the two open ports and check for any other ports on the carb that may be sucking in air.
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68 GMC 250/3 speed Saginaw p/b p/s 69 Chevy 350/350 currently in pieces still lookin for a cab 06 Trailblazer I just want a vehicle that I can work on, that won't talk to me, leave error msgs or keep track of how I drive... |
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