Very frustrating rear end dilema

[DoubleL]

So I bought a posi rearend from a 1969 C-10. I thought it would be a bolt in for my 66 c20 eaton rear end. I have someone putting it in for me but found out it needs at least an offset u-joint and an adjustable control arm for the mod which would be several hundred dollars. He is really advising me against dropping down to a smaller 6-lug axle. I am starting to second guess it as well.
My first choice would be to rebuild this rearend but with no aftermarket parts for this particular rear end I am looking at close to $1400 to rebuild it.
Of course I would have to eventually convert my front to 6-lug as well if I went with the back end I have.
To complicate matters more i have already bought new tires and rims for the 6-lug...... really confused right now...

[shawno72]

What is your ultimate goal. To make it a half ton or leave it 3/4 ton?
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[FetchMeAPepsi]

As the forum tightwad if it were me I'd bide my time and wait until I could find another c20 with the correct rear end, buy that and use the rear end for parts. Or if it's better than mine I'd just use mine for parts. You really can't be in a rush if you want to do it right.
Of course that's just my 2 cents. If you have 1400 bux go for the full rebuild.

[DoubleL]

Originally Posted by shawno72

What is your ultimate goal. To make it a half ton or leave it 3/4 ton?
Posted via Mobile Device

After thinking about it I guess I just wanted to change over to six-lug and get front discs. I took a lot of flack for pulling my granny 4-speed and going to the 700r4 thus "Wimpifying" my truck. This will never be a heavy duty farm truck or haul a fifth wheel so I guess I just need to stand firm on my decisions

Originally Posted by FetchMeAPepsi

As the forum tightwad if it were me I'd bide my time and wait until I could find another c20 with the correct rear end, buy that and use the rear end for parts. Or if it's better than mine I'd just use mine for parts. You really can't be in a rush if you want to do it right.
Of course that's just my 2 cents. If you have 1400 bux go for the full rebuild.

Unfortunately the rearend in my truck is howling pretty bad so waiting is not really an option. I know of another 66 C20 with the correct rear end but the problem is it too is 46 years old and in unknown condition but I hear where you are coming from

[Captainfab]

It sounds to me like the guy doing the work either doesn't want to really do it, or he is hosing you. There is no way a conversion U-joint and a different panhard bar should cost several hundred dollars. Heck the whole job shouldn't cost that much, unless there is a lot of work that needs done to the rear end. The conversion u-joints are not that expensive, and for a panhard bar, you can use an original one from a '65-'72 C10. You will just have to heat up the frame end and put a slight bend in it. Even if you were to buy an aftermarket adjustable panhard bar, those are $100.00 or less.

If you are wanting to convert your truck to a 1/2 ton, then continue on. If it is the front disc brakes you are concerned about, you can just as easily convert to 8 lug disc brakes. Before I woud spend $1400.00 on that Eaton HO52, I would find either a Dana 60 or a 10.5 14 bolt to put under there.

[chevyrestoguy]

Originally Posted by Captainfab

It sounds to me like the guy doing the work either doesn't want to really do it, or he is hosing you. There is no way a conversion U-joint and a different panhard bar should cost several hundred dollars. Heck the whole job shouldn't cost that much, unless there is a lot of work that needs done to the rear end. The conversion u-joints are not that expensive, and for a panhard bar, you can use an original one from a '65-'72 C10. You will just have to heat up the frame end and put a slight bend in it. Even if you were to buy an aftermarket adjustable panhard bar, those are $100.00 or less.

I agree. Conversion u-joints might set you back no more than $35 at an expensive auto parts store. The aftermarket adjustable panhard are inexpensive too, but worth the cost. As far as costs go for swapping out a rear end, you can't get much cheaper than using the '69 rear end. 99% of the assembly bolts right up into your truck.

[tincan1966]

Listen to the Capt'n! he has this stuff to a science!( I have taken alot of notes from his advise) Lots of people with alot of good advise here. Your whole conversion,rear axle swap, front brakes and all shouldn't cost $1400. I'd say, keep going the direction you are, it'll be worth it in the end.

[shawno72]

Originally Posted by DoubleL

After thinking about it I guess I just wanted to change over to six-lug and get front discs. I took a lot of flack for pulling my granny 4-speed and going to the 700r4 thus "Wimpifying" my truck. This will never be a heavy duty farm truck or haul a fifth wheel so I guess I just need to stand firm on my decision

In my opinion it sounds like you are wanting to complete a six lug conversion. It's to bad you aren't closer, I have a complete 6 lug rear end with 3.73 that is in great shape that I'd sell you for $150. Stick with what you want to do and get a second opinion.
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[DoubleL]

Thanks for the input guys! I am going to stick with my original plan and go with the six-lug conversion. There are a lot of strong opinions out there I guess once I get a plan I need to stick to it. I have a good 3:73 Posi 6-lug that I will put in. Then a front disc brake conversion next spring. For right now I'm going to put a power booster on my drum setup. I was a little mixed up on my numbers and it's going to be $140 for the parts to install the rear end.
CaptainFab, it looks like I'll be ordering your booster bracket here soon!

[shawno72]

Originally Posted by DoubleL

Thanks for the input guys! I am going to stick with my original plan and go with the six-lug conversion. There are a lot of strong opinions out there I guess once I get a plan I need to stick to it. I have a good 3:73 Posi 6-lug that I will put in. Then a front disc brake conversion next spring. For right now I'm going to put a power booster on my drum setup. I was a little mixed up on my numbers and it's going to be $140 for the parts to install the rear end.
CaptainFab, it looks like I'll be ordering your booster bracket here soon!

I have power drum brakes on truck and it stops on a dime for what driving I do.

[DoubleL]

I decided to let the guy do the exchange for me. He ordered the adjustable trac-bar and has been waiting for it for almost 3 weeks due to "shipping issues". I started to get a bad feeling about this and called it off. I have decided to do it myself. I figured with the money I saved I will upgrade my jack and jack-stands before I do the job. I do have one dumb question....when I remove the brake lines will the fluid all drain out or should I try to plug them somehow? I'm thinking if I really need the adjustable trac-bar i can probably get one at the 4-wheel truck shop nearby.

[rbar]

Is that rear end going to be wider than the original? I don't remember what years they got wider.

[Captainfab]

The brake fluid will slowly drip out of the disconnected lines even with the lid on the master cylinder.

[Captainfab]

The 12 bolt truck rear end width increased 1.5" in late 1970, from 62" to 63.5". I don't have my rear end width list here, but the Eaton HO52 is wider than the 12 bolts, by a couple inches or so.

Originally Posted by rbar

Is that rear end going to be wider than the original? I don't remember what years they got wider.

[luvbowties]

Originally Posted by DoubleL

I decided to let the guy do the exchange for me. He ordered the adjustable trac-bar and has been waiting for it for almost 3 weeks due to "shipping issues". I started to get a bad feeling about this and called it off. I have decided to do it myself. I figured with the money I saved I will upgrade my jack and jack-stands before I do the job. I do have one dumb question....when I remove the brake lines will the fluid all drain out or should I try to plug them somehow? I'm thinking if I really need the adjustable trac-bar i can probably get one at the 4-wheel truck shop nearby.

As for fluid, check the flex hose going to rear--it prolly needs replacing anyhow. If so, cut the flex hose at in a place that leaves you with 2 ends of flex to plug/clamp with bolts.

BTW: As an shawno72 said, you'll love simple power drum brakes--with dual brake reservoir, of course. I wouldn't buy a 'kit' to change over; maybe use Cap'n Fab's adapter & buy a booster & master cylinder locally.

Get a m-cyl for a '67 C20 WITH 1.125-inch bore(instead of 1.000-inch). The m-cyl should cost less than $20 locally. It'll move more juice per pedal-pump & the booster will make it easy to do so. The booster should cost around $80: I'd coordinate the booster-purchase with Cap'n Fab. NOTHING wasted should you decide to go to disc brakes later!

[chevyrestoguy]

In an effort to keep this thread alive, what brake hose did you guys use in the rear? I did the same mod (removed the 8-lug Eaton rear and went with a '79 Suburban 12-bolt). You cannot use the same brake hose for the Eaton because it winds up being too short. I even got a hose for a '64 half-ton, and it was also too short. They may have gave me the wrong hose at the parts store, but I'm pretty sure it's a half-ton hose.

I may just have to measure the length I need and just research and find the hose I need.

[Rich 5150 69]

Originally Posted by chevyrestoguy

In an effort to keep this thread alive, what brake hose did you guys use in the rear? I did the same mod (removed the 8-lug Eaton rear and went with a '79 Suburban 12-bolt). You cannot use the same brake hose for the Eaton because it winds up being too short. I even got a hose for a '64 half-ton, and it was also too short. They may have gave me the wrong hose at the parts store, but I'm pretty sure it's a half-ton hose.

I may just have to measure the length I need and just research and find the hose I need.

Restoguy....my hose is 19 inches on my `64....stock 6-lugger. It ties into the t-fitting at the stock panhard bar bracket on the housing centered between the frame right side and center section of the rear axle housing, only pic I have.

[rcbildr]

Originally Posted by DoubleL

I decided to let the guy do the exchange for me. He ordered the adjustable trac-bar and has been waiting for it for almost 3 weeks due to "shipping issues". I started to get a bad feeling about this and called it off. I have decided to do it myself. I figured with the money I saved I will upgrade my jack and jack-stands before I do the job. I do have one dumb question....when I remove the brake lines will the fluid all drain out or should I try to plug them somehow? I'm thinking if I really need the adjustable trac-bar i can probably get one at the 4-wheel truck shop nearby.

If you need an extra hand, let me know. If I can I'll help you out.

[DoubleL]

Originally Posted by rcbildr

If you need an extra hand, let me know. If I can I'll help you out.

Be careful what you offer lol.....

[DoubleL]

Just an update on this old thread. I ended up getting a commuter car to take the pressure off making this change and having to rely on this truck as a DD. After thinking about it I am going to stay with an 8-lug. I am looking for one that will be as close to bolt-in as possible. I will tackle this myself.