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#1 |
Registered User
Join Date: Jan 2012
Location: Killeen TX
Posts: 52
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Door skin or just keep block sanding it
Shot some paint on my truck, fenders and cab look great! Doors, mmmn quite wavey..... took it down to metal primed sanded... pretty much is free of rust, but after the paint looks as if I took a rusty door and threw bondo on it... I know better, but the doors are the only thing looking like hell
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#2 |
Registered User
Join Date: Aug 2010
Location: Edwards, CA
Posts: 7,503
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Re: Door skin or just keep block sanding it
Any low crown panel can be a challenge. Do you have any pictures of it blocked showing guide coat?
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#3 |
Registered User
Join Date: Jan 2012
Location: Killeen TX
Posts: 52
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Re: Door skin or just keep block sanding it
no pictures, right now it looks perfect with artificialligth in the garage, when I open the door it like transforms into this garbage when the outdoor light hits it. Havent taken it outside . I will be driving it soon so I may buy a doorskin at a time or do a door at a time.. the lower looks bad but really the whole door, I am using an off white on the whole truck. I may just get another door set and slowly work on them and when I am ready throw them on.
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#4 |
Registered User
Join Date: Apr 2011
Location: richmond, va
Posts: 140
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Re: Door skin or just keep block sanding it
what are the 5 'P's of painting? Prep, Prep, Prep, Paint, Polish...
![]() I'd take a look at it in natural light and see what you think. I'd like to see what it looks like with a guide coat. what about shooting a coat of polyester primer on it, then blocking? poly tends to tie things together alot better then 2k, just a thought. good luck to ya |
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#5 |
Registered User
Join Date: Apr 2010
Location: Russiaville
Posts: 203
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Re: Door skin or just keep block sanding it
I don't know if this is what you are dealing with, but I noticed that when I was sanding my doors, the panels were flexing quite a lot. (aftermarket doors)
I had to reinforce the inner panel with, well I used a kevlar/carbon weave, but you could use a fiberglass weave. Skins will have the same problem. I also had the same problem with the lower panels on the fenders.
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......its not what your askin', its what your gettin'.... .......every time I screw up, I learn something. Needless to say, I'm learning all the time............ Last edited by biggestjohn; 10-06-2012 at 10:19 AM. Reason: oops |
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#6 |
Old Skool Club
![]() Join Date: Jun 2001
Location: Benton, AR "The Heart of Arkansas"
Posts: 10,880
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Re: Door skin or just keep block sanding it
Just sayin....
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Member Nr. 2770 '96 GMC Sportside; 4.3/SLT - Daily driven....constantly needs washed. '69 C-10 SWB; 350/TH400 - in limbo The older I get, the better I was. |
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#7 |
Registered User
Join Date: Apr 2010
Location: Russiaville
Posts: 203
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Re: Door skin or just keep block sanding it
Just sayin', that guy on the end cayn't spail!!!
Or did you want Baseball?
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......its not what your askin', its what your gettin'.... .......every time I screw up, I learn something. Needless to say, I'm learning all the time............ |
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#8 |
Registered User
Join Date: Oct 2008
Location: Marianna Arkansas
Posts: 7,270
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Re: Door skin or just keep block sanding it
How many coats of what products did you use? I start 80 then go 220 grit [most don't do this step] then 2coats of epoxy primer then 2-3 coats of high build primer. That is when you need to da sand it and re prime a coat or two of hig build then guide coat it. It you skip the 220 git da sanding step of the high build after the first aplication it will show more waves. Also the 220 grit after the first high build ap will help in the removal of the orange peel and other roughness. Once all that is done you can spray a couple more coats then go on to the guide coat process.The guide coat if your not use to it is just what it says it guides you through the sanding steps. The guide comes in different forms from powder to spray can all are good and effective. Apply the coat and start sanding with a board the longer the better to keep things flat over a larger surface. Stay in a criss cross pattern and if the coating leaves quickly it is high if it stays too long it is low. Depending on the size and depth you may need to either put primer [more high build ][or 2 part putty or even filler. the 2 part finishing putty is easy to apply and does not require the surface to be groud back like as in the case of filler. Jim
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#9 |
Registered User
Join Date: Nov 2010
Location: Grand Terrace, Ca.
Posts: 1,607
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Re: Door skin or just keep block sanding it
There is also some sprayable filler like stuff that is called Slick Sand, I think Eastwood has it. I haven't used it but I have been told it is a bit expensive but worth every penny.
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#10 |
Registered User
Join Date: Apr 2010
Location: Russiaville
Posts: 203
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Re: Door skin or just keep block sanding it
Evercoat G2, same stuff. Its a pain to clean the gun after use, but a nice product. Needs a large nozzle, like a 2.3.
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......its not what your askin', its what your gettin'.... .......every time I screw up, I learn something. Needless to say, I'm learning all the time............ |
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#11 | |
Registered User
Join Date: Jan 2012
Location: Killeen TX
Posts: 52
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Re: Door skin or just keep block sanding it
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#12 | |
Registered User
Join Date: Jan 2012
Location: Killeen TX
Posts: 52
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Re: Door skin or just keep block sanding it
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