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#1 |
Registered User
![]() Join Date: Jun 2012
Location: Anaheim, CA
Posts: 455
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Dash Light Issue
Replacing the dash lights in my 67 and running into an issue. The dash was missing a few bulbs so I replaced all nine of them with new ones. The only ones that worked before were the bright indicator and the blinkers. Rest were either missing or burnt out. Now that I've replaced all with new, none of them work. I put in an old one where the bright indicator is and that one works so I'm not sure if its a bulb, dash or fuse issue, or something else that I'm simply not thinking of.
Old light on the left, new on right. ![]() Any input would be greatly appreciated. Dash is with gauges, no tach if that makes any difference. Thanks! Posted via Mobile Device |
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#2 |
Registered User
Join Date: Jun 2011
Location: Richmond,Va
Posts: 2,934
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Re: Dash Light Issue
I think you should start with power in. It looks like the old filament is still intact. Do you have a schematic and a meter or a test light?
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Nick Carter 1967 C10 Short bed Fleetside Project Cheap Thrills! 2WD C10 Modern/Performance Alignments Easiest Alignment Ever! |
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#3 |
Registered User
![]() Join Date: Jun 2012
Location: Anaheim, CA
Posts: 455
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Re: Dash Light Issue
The old one in the photo works, but the new one doesn't.
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#4 |
Registered User
Join Date: Jun 2011
Location: Richmond,Va
Posts: 2,934
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Re: Dash Light Issue
Dang, sorry. Reread your post. If the new one doesn't work and you put the old one in and it works again then the new one isn't good. It could just have a bad contact. Maybe you have to bend the tangs outward to make better contact. Maybe its just a bad part. Swap a known good ones to other holes and see how they work. Maybe the new ones just aren't any good. Swap known good bulbs with questionable sockets and known good sockets with questionable bulbs. Mix them up but keep everything in order. You have to know what is what and what works and what doesnt before we can continue.
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Nick Carter 1967 C10 Short bed Fleetside Project Cheap Thrills! 2WD C10 Modern/Performance Alignments Easiest Alignment Ever! |
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#5 |
Registered User
Join Date: Jan 2012
Location: Glencoe Alabama
Posts: 510
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Re: Dash Light Issue
It could be the printed circuit on the back is bad in spots. I would take the bulb/socket that works and try it in each hole. When you put the new one in and turn it, does the contacts line up with the contacts of the printed circuit?
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72 Cheyenne super 10 08 3500 HD 4dr dually 12 ford flex (wifes ride) 76 Monte Carlo 83 Chevy short wide Silverado 96 Mazda Miata, 2000 Allegro Bus |
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#6 |
RAT1968 '68 Cab/'71 Parts
Join Date: Feb 2002
Location: Coarsegold, CA
Posts: 2,375
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Re: Dash Light Issue
As some have already posted wise stuff, there are folks waaaay more accomplished on the Forum to answer this than I. But, I've been working on my dash, gages,
and bezel for a while recently, so I'm "ripe". I think you have the answer in your question: It can only be a few things, and you've covered most of 'em. First, I'd look at the cluster feed and panel lights fuses at the fuse block. Remember to pull out the light switch when you test those for 12V with a test light. Remember to ground the test light if you're not using a multi-meter. ![]() If those (I can't remember which is the power to the panel...so that's why I said to test both) are hot...no blown fuses, I personally, would pull the lights that don't work now and leave the ones that did before. I'd make some alligator clip leads and go test them all with a 12V source to make sure they light up. If they do, and you've got lights where you had them before (at the blinkers and high beam), then maybe you have a ground problem. First, I'd try to move the tabs on the bulb holders so there's a little more pressure at the printed circuit in the back of the gages. Do one and install it. Make sure you twist the holder around until it moves no more... or "locks". If the bulb worked before with the 12V pure leads you made to the battery, or whatever 12V source you used, you may have a ground problem with the printed circuit. Try running a permanent "jumper" from the back of the gage cluster to a bare metal spot on the back of the dash....What the Heck? More grounds can never hurt, huh? Still no light? Test a few. If you have the bezel out, or you want to get all up in it, you can pull the 12 pin rectangular dash gage plug next to the top of the fuel gage and see if the ground wires are in the right pin slots. I think they will be. Also, you could put in ALL of the lights and see which, if any, work besides the turn signals. If you do all those things, maybe you need to inspect the printed circuit. Which means pulling the bezel out...which means dropping the steering column. I also take the steering wheel off just because it makes sense. No magic. 12V + and a ground. One to each light. The juice has to get there. And the light has to "like" it. If all fails, I have a 5lb hand-sledge I can send you if you promise to return it...I might need it for my next project.
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M17 Coarsegold, CA RAT's shiny now. But always a rat. Last edited by magwakeenercew2jh; 11-11-2012 at 12:58 AM. |
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#7 |
Registered User
![]() Join Date: Jun 2012
Location: Anaheim, CA
Posts: 455
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Re: Dash Light Issue
Great info! Thanks guys! I'll pull the dash back out, just had it out, and check things on the bench. Bashed my head on the column enough times to not want to be back under there. The circuit is a bit beat and I wouldn't mind replacing it anyways since I rebuilt the entire dash anyways.
I swapped the old bulbs around and also swapped the new ones in different spots. None of the new ones work in any of the spots. Replacing the old ones since some are missing and some are burnt out. I appreciate all the info, I'll try the things mentioned above and report back. The Posted via Mobile Device |
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