Heater Hose Routing?

[savatreatabvr]

The heater doesn't work in my 1973 C20 454, since there's only one hose with a shut off valve hooked up to the heater core I'm assuming it was leaking for the previous owner so I'll replace the heater core, no big deal! My question is, where do I hook up the other heater hose coming from the heater core?

[motornut]

I hear a popular thing is to put a valve(cheaper then the stock part) in to block the heat from going into the core when using the AC

[ont_guy_38]

The one on the intake as that is where the water is the hottest and you want that to go through your heater core.

[INSIDIOUS '86]

Your missing the bypass hose that goes from the midle intake below the t-stat to the water pump top to the left on top is where the upper hose for the heater goes and the lower goes to rad or water pump
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[tucsonjwt]

I would take a pic of my 83 C20 but it is in the shop for leaking dump hoist cylinder (for the past 6 weeks, waiting for part). I put a stop valve on mine to slow down heat going into the cab in the summertime. Mine has emissions on it, but I think the hose routing is the same as my old 73. I will look for a pic in my old files.

[tucsonjwt]

All I can find in my pics folder is the bypass routing when I installed the new water pump. BTW you need Corvette 454 bypass fittings in the water pump so the hoses don't kink almost closed. I got those from Corvette Central.

[savatreatabvr]

Great pics, thank you for sharing them! Why don't I have a short hose from my intake to water pump and in my first pic I'm assuming that is where my new heater hose from the new heater core will go? Second pic shows my inline heater hose valve!

Originally Posted by tucsonjwt

All I can find in my pics folder is the bypass routing when I installed the new water pump. BTW you need Corvette 454 bypass fittings in the water pump so the hoses don't kink almost closed. I got those from Corvette Central.

[INSIDIOUS '86]

Yes just move your heater hose over and install the bypass hose. That will help warm up time and get rid of any air bubbles as well as keep water circulating
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[tucsonjwt]

I would leave the shut off valve in place. I have one on my 454. That 454 gives off A LOT of heat, as I am sure you know, and that valve will cut down a litlle on the interior cab temps in the summer by keeping hot coolant from circulating through the heater core. If you don't like the valve you have you can get a nice chrome one with a short handle from O'Reillys or other parts stores - it is like a stock item in AZ stores.
If you are installing a new heater core I recommend a stock copper one - AC Delco if possible from the online discount OEM sellers.
My truck might be out of the equipment shop early next week (second attempt to install valve in hoist cylinder), so if you can wait a few days I can take pics of the stock setup on my 83 454 - I think my 73 454 was the same setup, IIRC.
Also, get the new hoses from NAPA or another Gates seller (Amazon prices are usually best with free shipping and no tax - until January in AZ - thanks state legislators) I saved a lot on the new filler hoses for the dual tanks, the heater hoses, and the extra 25 feet of fuel line I used to extend the vent lines on the sending units - probably $50-$60 savings total. Do not use Autozone hoses - the cheapest and thinest of the Chinese import stuff we are all forced to use.

[savatreatabvr]

Yes I'll wait for the pics and thanks for the Autozone info, I had no idea! I thought all parts stores carried the same quality parts just different prices!

Originally Posted by tucsonjwt

I would leave the shut off valve in place. I have one on my 454. That 454 gives off A LOT of heat, as I am sure you know, and that valve will cut down a litlle on the interior cab temps in the summer by keeping hot coolant from circulating through the heater core. If you don't like the valve you have you can get a nice chrome one with a short handle from O'Reillys or other parts stores - it is like a stock item in AZ stores.
If you are installing a new heater core I recommend a stock copper one - AC Delco if possible from the online discount OEM sellers.
My truck might be out of the equipment shop early next week (second attempt to install valve in hoist cylinder), so if you can wait a few days I can take pics of the stock setup on my 83 454 - I think my 73 454 was the same setup, IIRC.
Also, get the new hoses from NAPA or another Gates seller (Amazon prices are usually best with free shipping and no tax - until January in AZ - thanks state legislators) I saved a lot on the new filler hoses for the dual tanks, the heater hoses, and the extra 25 feet of fuel line I used to extend the vent lines on the sending units - probably $50-$60 savings total. Do not use Autozone hoses - the cheapest and thinest of the Chinese import stuff we are all forced to use.

[savatreatabvr]

I'm still confused on where the new heater hose goes! If i move the existing heater hose over on my water pump to make room for a small hose from water pump to intake then there's no place for the new heater hose from the new heater core! I'm assuming one of the ports on my intake is where the new heater hose from the new heater core will go, probably just to the left of the one under my water neck?

[INSIDIOUS '86]

If your radiator has a provision for a hose you can run it in there or like this
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[tucsonjwt]

Not to be political, but some are staying away from Autozone because of their employee policy. I personally use Autozone for the usual stuff because they are close by and I like the guys who work there, but this has got me thinking - not too smart on the part of Autozone management just on a public relations basis. Considering all of the stickups of stores and banks we have in this town, I think I side with the employee.

http://radio.foxnews.com/toddstarnes...d-robbery.html

[tucsonjwt]

The top hose at the heater core is 3/4" and goes to the water pump (long nipple with bend in it, right side of pump- viewed from the driver's seat.)

The bottom hose at the heater core is 5.8" and goes to the intake manifold - to the right of the thermostat housing (a.k.a. water outlet), viewed from the driver's seat.

Sorry about the delay, just got my truck back today, now I have a brake problem

[wilkin250r]

The theory is, your water pump is pumping coolant through your engine block, upwards to the intake manifold, and then out to the radiator to cool off.

So you want to hook a heater hose to your intake manifold to send some of that hot water to your heater core. So that hot water is coming OUT of the intake manifold.

To return it back to the engine, you can either run the return out to the radiator, or back to the water pump itself. Personally, I like the water pump, because it tends to work more efficiently and quickly. If the engine is still fairly cold and the thermostat hasn't opened up, running the return line back to the radiator will dilute the warm water with cold water sitting in the radiator. Running it back to the water pump keeps the warm water in the engine itself and gives you better, faster heat in your heater core.