where to wire in my electric choke

[tex_waco_usmc]

Where have yall been obtaining the 12V feed for your electric chokes when the key is on? I have an electric choke carb and would like for the choke to be operational.

[Billett]

I have an eddy 1406 with an electric choke, but I'm honestly not sure where the 12v comes from. I'll check over lunch for you.

[tex_waco_usmc]

Originally Posted by Billett

I have an eddy 1406 with an electric choke, but I'm honestly not sure where the 12v comes from. I'll check over lunch for you.

Thats the same carb I am working with. Had to take apart and clean and rebuild due to a long sit and now I figured I might as well make it work like it is supposed to. I appreciate the help.

[Billett]

no problem. I had to do the same thing. it was the first carb I've taken apart and it wasn't as bad as I thought it would be. I realize it isn't a full rebuild, but all the major gaskets and cleaning all that crap out solved quite a few weird problems for me.

[tex_waco_usmc]

Originally Posted by Billett

no problem. I had to do the same thing. it was the first carb I've taken apart and it wasn't as bad as I thought it would be. I realize it isn't a full rebuild, but all the major gaskets and cleaning all that crap out solved quite a few weird problems for me.

Mine, for the first time in three years, is going to move under its own power today. But, I sure would like to get that choke working!

[Billett]

Well I certainly can't stand in the way of that! I'll post up around 11:30, noon at the latest. IIRC the P.O. has a small gauge wire running through a grommet in the firewall, but I have no idea if the hole is supposed to be there or not, or what it's wired to under the dash..

[Billett]

My guess would be the positive ignition wire. He probably just spliced it off under the dash. You could also use the fused side of the ballast resistor. Any spare spots on your fuse block? You could check them to see if they are switched 12v.

[tex_waco_usmc]

Originally Posted by Billett

My guess would be the positive ignition wire. He probably just spliced it off under the dash. You could also use the fused side of the ballast resistor. Any spare spots on your fuse block? You could check them to see if they are switched 12v.

Not sure if there is any open space. I was actually thinking that doesnt the starter have a terminal on it that is only hot when the truck is running? If so could I wire it down to the starter?

[Ol Blue K20]

No, the starter doesn't have a hot wire only when running. The fuse block has a couple of unfused ign terminals that should fulfill your need

[tex_waco_usmc]

Originally Posted by Ol Blue K20

No, the starter doesn't have a hot wire only when running. The fuse block has a couple of unfused ign terminals that should fulfill your need

Thanks, for some reason I was thinking there was a start terminal which receives a signal from the key, and then I was thinking that the other terminal was a run terminal which was 12v while it was running... LOL no idea where that came from!!!

[Ol Blue K20]

Older Ford solenoids had a ign terminal, you my friend are suffering from Ford poisoning. LOL

[tex_waco_usmc]

Originally Posted by Ol Blue K20

Older Ford solenoids had a ign terminal, you my friend are suffering from Ford poisoning. LOL

Thats probably what I was thinking, I just helped a buddy put a starter in his truck and it was a Ferd!

[LockDoc]

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I would guess you would use the "IGN UNFUSED" terminal on the fuse block. It is hot whenever the key is on.

LockDoc

[tex_waco_usmc]

Originally Posted by LockDoc

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I would guess you would use the "IGN UNFUSED" terminal on the fuse block. It is hot whenever the key is on.

LockDoc

Ok awesome, but where would the best place to run the wire through the firewall without drilling a new hole?

[LockDoc]

Originally Posted by tex_waco_usmc

Ok awesome, but where would the best place to run the wire through the firewall without drilling a new hole?

Should be room for it with the 3 washer hoses or the oil pressure line.

LockDoc

[Ol Blue K20]

I agree with Lockdoc, should be able to squeeze thru at one of 'em fairly easy

[Husker]

If you have HEI Ignition, use the old coil wire.
Ron

[Ol Blue K20]

Only problem with using the old coil wire is it is a resistor wire and isn't 12 volts. It's more like 8.5 volts and the choke would tend to heat up way slower.

[Longhorn 70]

I don't know if this will help in your situation. To add mine and HEI what I did was....

1. Turn on the ignition.

2. Poke in the connector box under the hood with a pointy test light in each of the holes without a connector.

3. I found one that wasn't being used that light up the light.

4.Turned the key off and made sure the light went out.
Test that one again with the key on to make sure it went on again. (The old measure twice cut once.)

5.Removed the bolt from the center of the connector under the hood.

6.Went to Autozone and got a connector that looked like the others in the engine compartment connector. I had to buy a pack of 5.

7. Crimped a wire in and put it in the connector and connected to the fuse box again, and VOILE` I had 12 Volts to power my HEI and choke.

[Husker]

I used the old coil wire on My CJ with Edelbrock carb, heats up the choke just fine.
Ron

[Ol Blue K20]

I don't know how the CJs are wired Ford and Chrysler used 12v to their coils with either external resistors or coil with an internal resistor. GM used a resistor wire to cut down the voltage. 8.5v will heat the choke but at a slower rate. Just my 2 cents for what it's worth nowadays LOL

[Boog]

Do put an inline fuse on it though. It's good insurance.

[tex_waco_usmc]

Originally Posted by Boog

Do put an inline fuse on it though. It's good insurance.

How big of an inline fuse should I run?

[Billett]

Just found this

http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/s...d.php?t=445794

Sorry about not getting pics up yesterday. It's been busy around here. I should have them up tonight around 4 or so, but I'm not sure how much help they'll be.

[Billett]

double