retrofit AC or buy new cab?

[belay70]

Im doing a frame up restoration on Dad's "Ol Blue" - 1979 C20 long bed. It didnt come equipped with AC. I definitely want AC in this truck after the restoration.

My cab needs cab corners and full rockers replaced anyway, and Im wondering if Im better off using a rust-free cab from out west, that was originally equipped with AC? Versus stickign with my original cab, repairing the rust spots with new metal, and retrofitting an aftermarket AC system?

Im sure this is a common question - anyone got feedback from direct experience? thanks fellas.

[mrhino]

I guess that all depends all your ability, tools and how much money your will to spend on a rust free A/C cab.
but to answer your A/C question. It can be done. I did mine, on the crew cab Im building. I thinks its post 131 of my build thread. The fire wall is different. your going to have to cut new holes and patch some old holes up. but its not hard. just make sure you get all the duct work and wiring. it makes things easier. unless your going with a vintage air system. Than thats entirely different.

[LEEVON]

Personally, I'd be inclined to start with a clean cab. I can think of (3) A/C cabs on Craigslist in the last couple of months in our area that were good candidates. Take it a step further and get a toasted truck that you can get the cab, a/c parts and every nut and bolt from. They're everywhere and cheap.

If you're a pro at the rust repair and it's no biggie, then an aftermarket air kit might be the way to go...

[Greenlee]

You may want to look into a Vintage Air kit. They don't use the AC cab holes. That's what I plan to use on mine.
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[jbristo67]

Get a cheap rust free dinar truck. You'd be glad you did and it would be cheaper than vintage air
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[cochino12]

rust free cab AND vintage air

[belay70]

cool, thats how I was leaning as well. Any issues with certain years' cabs not fitting other years' frames? Or info on that subject?

[andrewmp6]

If you can weld i would price the replacement sheet metal vs what your gonna pay total for a new cab.

[belay70]

already found a rust-free truck for $800. blown engine is what makes it cheap. I can use the bed replacement too. problem is, its a 1985 - am I right in thinking the front fenders and hood are still the same as my 79? Is it just the grill/rad support that were changed?

But thinking it over - it doesnt make any sense to tear all the body parts off this rust-free truck, cause the frame is likely to be in better shape than mine too. Kinda begs the question - Why not just put my engine in the donor truck? But then Im not "restoring" my truck. Whose great idea was it to find a donor truck???? Round and round you can go with these problems.

So. Now Im thinking simply repairing my cab and bed would be at least worth trying. If I dont like the result then its back to the donor truck scenario. Finding a completely rusted out truck just for the AC components wouldnt be hard. But do you have to cur any part of the dash metal when putting in AC? It uses the same vents as the heater, but also uses a vent above the radio, right? I suppose I'll also need to cannibalize the ductwork, which might mean removal of the entire metal dash?

Why do I always want the most difficult things in life?

[motornut]

I've noticed with AC you only get one foot vent ,pass side
some even weld/close off that
but cutting the firewall/swap would work,since you got it all...
and would leave two foot vents

[N2TRUX]

Unless you are proficient at welding AND body work, I do not recommend patch panels. The panels themselves are very cheap, so they lure you in to thinking its an economical choice. They quickly become much more expensive when you have to pay someone to install them, or pay someone to remove the mess you made and reinstall them correctly before you spend thousands on a paint job.

Think it through, but do not be lured in by the initial cost of patch panels assuming you are saving lots of money.

[74 stepside]

Also take into consideration, that replacing your cab means you will also have a different vin#. If you go that route, make sure you can register it. Make sure whatever year cab you get doesnt have back fees or salvage titles.

[Duster]

Originally Posted by belay70

already found a rust-free truck for $800. blown engine is what makes it cheap. I can use the bed replacement too. problem is, its a 1985 - am I right in thinking the front fenders and hood are still the same as my 79? Is it just the grill/rad support that were changed?

But thinking it over - it doesnt make any sense to tear all the body parts off this rust-free truck, cause the frame is likely to be in better shape than mine too. Kinda begs the question - Why not just put my engine in the donor truck? But then Im not "restoring" my truck. Whose great idea was it to find a donor truck???? Round and round you can go with these problems.

So. Now Im thinking simply repairing my cab and bed would be at least worth trying. If I dont like the result then its back to the donor truck scenario. Finding a completely rusted out truck just for the AC components wouldnt be hard. But do you have to cur any part of the dash metal when putting in AC? It uses the same vents as the heater, but also uses a vent above the radio, right? I suppose I'll also need to cannibalize the ductwork, which might mean removal of the entire metal dash?

Why do I always want the most difficult things in life?

Hood fenders core support even the cab will be different on the 85 vs. the 79. everything will bolt up though. The hood hinges on the 79 bolt to the fenders, and the 85 will be intergrated into the cab and the fenders. The 85 will also have a cowl vent cover between the hood and the windshield. But like I said, the 79 fenders should bolt right up to the 85 cab. They also have different dashes. You might run into a problem if you are wanting to stick a 79 dash pad into the 85.