Blazer gas tank

[Ziegelsteinfaust]

I am getting pretty close to finalizing plans on my truck, and giving it glorified car status. I figure a 6-8 would do me good or as low as I can go before I have to cut into my bed.

Ho low does a stock blazer tank hang below the frame rails. With the drop I would like it seems to low from my point of view.

I want to get rid of the side saddles because of californias gas pumps it makes it a pita to fill up, and getting gas on my shoes is bad. Real bad.

So is there any other relatively cheap solutions anyone else has done? I can afford about $250 when the project starts, but not the $600 or so it seems custom tanks start at.

Can I section a blazer tank, and keep within the above budget?

For that much I would throw a side saddle in my bed, and lock it down. Along with a protective cover, and deal with the nanny state later.

[Pyrotechnic]

http://www.73-87.com/7387garage/chas...ellinstall.htm

That's essentially what I'm doing. A little less than $200 gets you the fuel cell with sender and foam.

As far as modding the blazer tank, unless you can weld that thin metal yourself, it's tough to find any pro welders that will even touch a gas tank. Back in the days before I took up welding, I called several welders and I would always hear a click on the other end right after I said "gas tank." I suppose if they can make tons of money on stuff that won't go "boom," why take the risk?

Other than that, all I can think of is a fuel tank out of a car. Might be limited on capacity though.

[Low87]

Originally Posted by Pyrotechnic

http://www.73-87.com/7387garage/chas...ellinstall.htm

That's essentially what I'm doing. A little less than $200 gets you the fuel cell with sender and foam.

I did that install on my 87. I hate it.

To answer your question, here's a shot of mine showing how far down it hangs;

K5 tank should be roughly the same.

Since I don't have a bed cover, I used a more water-tight bed hatch than Jeff did in his writeup;
4" deck plate from a Marine store with weatherstripping & black rtv in the bed corrugation.


I hate it because;
1 - The o-ring for the fuel cell door is crap. It will dry out & crack quickly. Chris (CaptKaos) recommends this;

to replace this;

which would make it more watertight (I had water get in the fuel cell after the o-ring cracked) and make it easier to open the fuel cell from topside the bed. The red cap sits a couple inches below the bed floor, can be tricky to reach in there to undo the cap (those red caps suck too).


2 - I had to run an external fuel pump. Not ideal by any stretch for TBI. I burnt through about 6 fuel pumps in 3 years.

Because of the above, I've accumulated the parts necessary to put a K5 tank in place, using factory TBI regulated pump, sending unit, etc. Allows use of factory plumbing & wiring.
WAY easier up front, & more reliable in the long run. No need to section. Find a bone yard or a CL ad for some one parting out a K5 or Burb. You can use the 24 or 31 gal tanks. I bought mine for $40. Spend $150 on a new, QUALITY, pump/sending unit combo. Don't go cheap here. About $30 for the tank straps. Find some roofing tar paper, or thin flat rubber for anti-squeek kit (LMC anti-squeek kit is cut up roofing tar paper).

Then have fun figuring out how you want to run your filler neck.