69 chevy c10 250 inline 6 problems

[tebow217]

yes my 69 c 10 is giving me issues with starting so I posted a thread the other day and got a few answers so this is what I come up with I have fuel I have spark but do not know if it is enough spark and how to figure if the distributor is putting out enough one guy old me I flooded the plugs he was right plugs were flooded with gas changed the plugs and put a new coil on because the old one was pretty rough looking I put a accel performance coil 12 volts on cannot get the thing to start with starting fluid need all the info I can get thanx

[Shyguy]

I don't remember your previous post. I think you have a truck with points, right?

What are the condition of the points, are they opening up? How does the inside of the dist cap look? Is the rotor in good condition?

I had a truck one time that had a hole burnt in the spring on top of the rotor and was causing it not to start.

Just some suggestions.

[tebow217]

Cap is brand new points look pretty new condenser is new how do I check the point gap the ballast resistor has been bypassed but where the wires are I haven't a clue
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[tebow217]

Rotor is new also
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[BOHICA-Chevy68]

Have you checked your timing? If you removed your distributor, did you put it back in correctly with #1 cylinder at top dead center? Also check to make sure your plug wires are in the proper firing order (1,5,3,6,2,4). Remember 15 is too young, 36 is too old, 24 is just right. If you have fuel and spark I would lean toward timing and firing order.
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[Rufton]

I don't like performance coils on mild engines; but they work ok.
See if your coil requires a ballast resistor.
Point gap must be verified; remove dist cap, turn eng till points full open, set w/ feeler gauge.

[71sixgun]

I don't have the specs in front of me, but they are in the shop manual. If you don't have a manual, go get one, they are truly worth their weight in gold. With your dist. cap off, rotate your fan slowly by hand and watch to see if the points open and close. The points can be cleaned by using a piece of 320 grit paper and then run a dollar bill through. Check your plugs wires as well for cracks.

[tebow217]

Just yesterday took the distributor out but hav not tried to start the truck since then I have my marks made so it stays in time thanx for the info I will get back to you guys should I not run that performance coil on that motor it does not call for a ballast resistor because it is 12 volts that ballast resistor will not let it constantly pull 12 volts could be wrong just my theory
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[tebow217]

Just yesterday took the distributor out but hav not tried to start the truck since then I have my marks made so it stays in time thanx for the info I will get back to you guys should I not run that performance coil on that motor it does not call for a ballast resistor because it is 12 volts that ballast resistor will not let it constantly pull 12 volts could be wrong just my theory
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[geezer#99]

You don't want 12 volts to the coil when it's running. The extra voltage cooks them.
You only want 12 volts in start mode.

[tebow217]

Thanx for the info
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[BOHICA-Chevy68]

if you took the distributor out you can't just trust markings. Put the 1 cylinder in TDC and insert with rotor pointing to #1 spark plug/cylinder hole. TDC can be found by the mark on your crank lined up to 0 degrees on your timing plate.
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[Rufton]

If you properly marked dist and didn't spin engine then it should be good. I've done that many times then followed up w/ timing light after starting.

Won't hurt to double check like bohica said.

You want TDC following compression stroke. Can verify compression stroke by taping whistle on end of hose and press against spark plug hole. When whistle stops blowing then close to TDC. If timing chain is correct then pointer and damper markings mentioned above should be very close.

[Rufton]

Originally Posted by tebow217

Just yesterday took the distributor out but hav not tried to start the truck since then I have my marks made so it stays in time thanx for the info I will get back to you guys should I not run that performance coil on that motor it does not call for a ballast resistor because it is 12 volts that ballast resistor will not let it constantly pull 12 volts could be wrong just my theory
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Some reasons I don't like performance coils on typical engines is because they may be big, may not fit OEM bracket, and waste a little alternator energy but they can work fine for years. Another disadvantage is they may wear points, rotor and cap contacts quicker but not something your going to see in a few thousand miles. Does your performance coil instructions specify that no ballast resistor needed?

Many people love performance coils and that's fine.

[tebow217]

Thanks guys for all the help I will get it to top dead center and get her all back together and let you guys know how it goes from there I work nights and sleep half the day so very little time to tinker
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[cdowns]

Originally Posted by tebow217

Cap is brand new points look pretty new condenser is new how do I check the point gap the ballast resistor has been bypassed but where the wires are I haven't a clue
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these trucks did not have ballast resistors

[Daner]

When you get the distributer back in and the points set leave the cap off and crank it. Have someone else see if they spark.

I had similar problems with mine right after I got it. Turned out the spark plug wires were in the wrong order.

[tebow217]

I will up load pics of what I thought was a ballast resistor and you guys can maybe tell me what it is tomorrow morning I will put some engine pics up
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