Possible starter problem..how many shims is TOO many?

[TIMSPEED]

Well, right now, I have HALF an .060 shim on the OUTSIDE pad of my starter (to move the starter CLOSER to the flexplate) and it's STILL not even close. I had my mom run down and get me another .060 shim and I'm gonna put that in aswell. At what point does it become harfmul to use too many shims? I THINK with the two .060 shims it'll be dead on, but I could be wrong...
Thanks!

[MylilBowTie]

I dont think there can be too many as long as you can still bolt it up (tight) and it engauges the flywheel (flexplate).

But then again I may be wrong I havent had to mess with starter shims before.

[82 'ject]

Shim it to where you don't have any noise when starting.


Too loose will cause a whining noise and that means it is actually wearing out the starter gear and to a lesser extent the flywheel, but the flywheel is stronger so you will actually go thru numerous starter gears before a flywheel.

Too tight will cause a "clunk" sounds during starter engagement. This will wear out the Bendix in the starter that actually throws the gear into the flywheel. when this happens the starter gear will spin but no longer engage the engine.

Undershimming is rather easy to diagnose but over shimming may be harder to notice if it is near the brink of too much.

Undershimming and correcting in small increments until the whining is gone has been the easiest way I know to cure the problem correctly.

[rage'nrat638]

is it a new flex plate????i bought one that was juck...
same problem you got.
bought a tci, done no more problems

[82 'ject]

Here is another tip that is more involved but likely more acurrate.



http://www.streetrodstuff.com/Tech_S...iveQT.php?id=2

[76HighSierra]

I don't mean to hi-jack this thread, but I had to add this when starter shims were being mentioned. My solenoid on my 454's starter started going out, so I went to AutoZone and bought a new lifetime warranty model. When installing it, it required almost 3/8ths of an inch worth of shims(!!!) to have the desired 1/8th armature shaft to flywheel clearance. OK, so I go get another figuring it was a fluke, noooooo, same story. Now my old starter had no shims and had perfect clearance. I tried explaining this to the store manager and he STILL insisted I had a flexplate problem. So I go accross the street to Checker, buy another starter (this one a quality reman, using the original Delco nosecone, not a shi**y mexican made casting), bolt it on with no shims and it has the required clearance, right out of the box. After a long conversation with the AZ manager, I return both brand new starters and urge him to alert the manufacturer. I say all of that to say this. If you need much more than .10" of shims, the nosecone casting is improperly machined. The more shims you install, the more chance you run of the the starter "rocking" while turning the engine and bending your bolts or cracking the bolt holes in the block (even with the front brace installed). Damn, why don't they just use some precision when making new parts?

[toytruck]

I agree with 76highsierra.

[78chevstepside]

I had a similiar problem with a starter. I kept adding shims but no matter how many shims I put in it wasnt going to work. I returned the starter and got a different one. they didnt want to exchange it. I fussed a bit and they finally agreed. The next one they gave me worked perfect and didnt need no shims. Starters and headers are generally a problem. I think buying a new starter or a better quallity rebuilt is really worth the price difference. gm starters are always the cheapest to replace on the market. :p