Put a v6 in 82 silverado?

[chevymadness]

I'm tired of a v8 350 sucking gas up and leaving my wallet tapped out crying for mercy.And worst yet I can't afford to drive to the eastside of town to find a job because the west side of town has no opportunities.Jesus 350s are a joke no wonder most newer trucks nowadays are v6 and they should stay that way!.I get 10mpg preety much what I pay for is what I get and that's city miles I guesstimate it does about 13mpg highway and this truck is not lifted but sitting on its chest and with the transmission with 1 gear!.I have a 82 silverado and I'm thinking about throwing a v6 in it all I have heard of is a s10 v6 or a "v6 vortex" whatever the hell that is OR a 305 v8 i doubt its much difference.I don't pull any weight no trailers and not looking for "power" just to get around.I don't know how much HP I will be getting but the truck is not that heavy about 3,000 pounds.What should I do!
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[07XCSBZ71]

Tune up your 350 and maybe add TBI from a newer truck. Maybe add a OD trans. The 305 swap will be a waste of money. The 4.3s are great,but you're going to drop a grand to buy, install,and get all the bugs out of a Vortec 4.3 swap. I'm sorry, You'll have to drive many many many miles to recoup the cost of the swap at 3 extra MPG.

[Skunksmash]

Your 350 should be able to do at least 5 more MPG more than that, even in city driving. There is something wrong with your engine, even if its just age and wear and tear, that is causing it to get such low MPG. If you're going to go swapping a vortech, I'd skip that and do an LS motor since your concern is MPG. Save up a few hundred more though. Then you won't be getting any worse MPG than the new trucks, probably better since your truck is lighter.

[INSIDIOUS '86]

And typically shortbeds are just under two tons weight. Is your truck 4x4?
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[Skunksmash]

Originally Posted by 07XCSBZ71

Tune up your 350 and maybe add TBI from a newer truck. Maybe add a OD trans. The 305 swap will be a waste of money. The 4.3s are great,but you're going to drop a grand to buy, install,and get all the bugs out of a Vortec 4.3 swap. I'm sorry, You'll have to drive many many many miles to recoup the cost of the swap at 3 extra MPG.

A few things you can do to help out your old 350


A full tuneup, including O2 sensors, dizzy cap, rotor, spark plugs, plug wires, air filter, PCV valve, etc. And don't get cheap junk when you replace any of those things. Get the expensive stuff.

Run a full synthetic oil like Royal Purple, or better yet, Redline. Run a FULL synthetic in your transmission, your differential, your power steering pump, in your engine. I gained about 1 mile per gallon when I switched over all my fluids, taking me from 14.6 city to about 15.7. Haven't checked highway yet.

Keep your foot out of it. Don't go over 65 on the highway. Drive the truck less if at all possible.

Upgrade (yes, I said upgrade) to a 700R4 transmission instead of those old outdated useless 3 speeds. They're just not up to par on the highway with modern vehicles. Despite its reputation (which is in stock GM form) the 700R4 can be an excellent trans when built properly and treated properly. Don't run it without a tranny cooler with a thermostat in it. The .7 final drive gear will dramatically improve your highway MPG.

Find out what the problem is, (its gotta be something) that's causing you to get such low MPG. Fix it. Hope all this helps

[INSIDIOUS '86]

While I agree with all above I would say the synthetic route is mostly expensive and unnesasary. Although a high quality synthetic grease for the wheel bearings can help as much as all the rest on its own.

Check your brakes and make sure they aren't dragging
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[Skunksmash]

I always suggest full synthetics to people cause I've personally had great results with synthetics. Now of course it won't help everyone, but its cured a few of my vehicle's ills. On my 95 mustang GT it fixed an oil burning issue (car has 178k on the odometer) as well as gave me a small boost in MPG. It also made the whining 5-speed transmission shut up. So full synthetic is a winner in my book. Same thing for a noisy power steering pump in my dad's dodge.

The vets over at bobistheoilguy will often recommend people use Redline in an old engine, cause it eats everything including the freaking varnish off your old engine guts. I can attest to that personally. Getting clean can really help out an old motor. Just be careful cause if your engine is too nasty, it can loosen that stuff up and clog oil passages. You'll want to take your valve covers off and inspect for gunk that you can clean by hand first.

[D13]

Before more concrete suggestions, need to kow your exact combo. 350 yes, but which carb? Trans is an auto, but which one - look at the pan and look up on Google, pretty easy to identify. Don't trust the parts label on a truck this old unless you now its history (like it was your dad's...) Which rear end and which ratio, again check cover (10 or 12 bolts if it's a half ton) and find out the gear ratio (marker, jack and a buddy, 10 minutes max, again GOogle technique). I'm betting its TH350 with 3.23 or so gears.

Tune up yes, synthetic oils have limited value in an old worn vehicle, my experience has been that motor sealing is poor enough that oil gets contaminated (gas and combustion products past the rings and worn valve guides) and needs to be changed rather than wearing out, the miniscule savings in MPG is less than the extra cost unless you can make the oil live a lot longer. If you are replacing or rebuilding a component (like a rear end) then consider them, if you can prevent contamination.

But before you do anything beyond a tune-up, do the math.


Taller tires help to a point. you need to figure out your cruising RPM and get the tires/gears/trans to put you in that sweet spot. As an example, my 6.2 wants 16-1900 RPM, OD at 55mph with the 30's on it puts me right at 1600, 65mph is right around 1950, so it's geared/tire sized perfectly.

How many gallons of fuel do you need to save, at $4 per gallon (we're heading there, trust me) to pay for improvements?

Let's say we swap in a 200-4R, bolts in place of the TH350 you probably have. Roughly $650 for a rebuilt trans, another $150 for the cable and carb adaptor and misc fittings and fluids. This assumes you do the install pretty much youself. You would have to save 200 gallons of fuel to pay for it. At 10mpg, 20,000 miles is 2000 gallons. At 12 mpg (usually get 20% improvement out of OD) that's 1667 gallons. So it takes over a year of 20,000 miles a year to pay for itself.

Let's think about your rear gear. Do you have 3.08 or 3.23 or 3.43, or worse, 3.73 or 4.11? Axle swaps are pretty easy and used axles with 3.08's are inexpensive. You'll need to change the trans speedo gear or get an adjuster box. You probably could get out of it for $400. Now you get a quicker payback.

700R4 swap will need a driveshaft change. Used shafts are not very pricy in yards, but plan on replacing all the joints. Closer to $1500 with all the needs, unless you're taking a bet on a jyard trans.

The 4.3 V6 really gets efficient with fuel injected, and you can pick up a 700R4 at the same time. This requires HP pump, return fuel line, wiring, etc. Best bet is a complete doner, but only in 1987 did this appear in a square. 88-94 full size or 87-94 S10 or Astro vans, or even Caprices. Past 1994 they went to a different injectin and intake system that's more efficient but a lot harder to swap in.

So there's some thoughts

[68longhorn]

Not trying to be rude but if gas mileage is a big deal, a truck isn't your best option. My 86 with a 305 v8 with 700R$ and 2.73 rear knocks down 16-17mpg mix city and highway

[Keith Seymore]

Originally Posted by 68longhorn

Not trying to be rude but if gas mileage is a big deal, a truck isn't your best option. My 86 with a 305 v8 with 700R$ and 2.73 rear knocks down 16-17mpg mix city and highway

Yep.

'87 2wd swb; 4.3L V6 with MY6 manual overdrive, 3.73 gears with P235 tires. Gets around 20-22 mpg.

I figure that's about as good as it gets.

K

[lilpoindexter]

DUDE...you don't have a job, and you're thinking about attacking a project like this???
Either trade your truck for a square that already has a V6, or get an S10 or a little honda or something. Swaps, always, always, always, always take way more time and money than you ever bargained for.

[Ziegelsteinfaust]

Check you cat based on your year you should have one. My uncle had a 79 C10 that was getting horrid mpg 8-9 for a couple of months, and it couldn't go up a hill with out slowing down. Replaced the cat with a basic honey comb version, and it went right to 14-16. With what felt like by comparison 100hp extra.

If you do not have a cat do the tune ups, and checks like a few of the guy mentioned. My C20 with get 12 city/14hwy with a dead motor, and 4.11 gears.

[Zane M]

If you can't afford the gas for your current set up(which many have posted suggestions that may improve its MPG), then you sure as heck can't afford to do an engine swap, which will not pay for itself for at least a year, if not two.

At this point in your life you may be better off selling the truck and getting a little econo box car or a 4 cylinder truck.

[Skunksmash]

Originally Posted by lilpoindexter

Either trade your truck for a square that already has a V6, or get an S10 or a little honda or something. Swaps, always, always, always, always take way more time and money than you ever bargained for.

Honestly this may be your best option. This is why I also have a 4 door toyota Yaris lol. 1.5L 4cyl that gets 36 MPG city, 39 highway, tested at the pump.

I do love driving my old truck but there is a time and a place to drive it and its not just when I feel like going somewhere. You could get enough money from selling that truck, to get you an 87 model that has TBI which is much more fuel efficient than its carb'd predecessors. I regret selling my 81 but I do not miss its fuel mileage and all the problems and upkeep that come with a owning an older carb'd engine.

[SSC's76]

I'm going to agree with what a lot of the other guys said. It stinks there is no work in your area and I'm sorry you are unemployed I've been there.there was a time back in 08 where the wife and I were both out of work at the same time for almost half the year we are still trying to recover 5 years later which is one of the reasons my truck has not had much love I do what I can to keep it on the road and that's it. Jumping out of my pity party. If you can afford a v6 swap you can afford another car. Your in Texas there are tons of cheap beaters. Find a older Honda or similar 4 cyl car and drive it into the ground in the end you will be happier
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[82ccshorty]

Buick turbo v6
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[Edahall]

Best fuel economy I've ever got in a square is with the 6.2L diesel.

[motornut]

I've seen the secondaries tied off (for winter)
but try to tie off the choke,especially if it's a vac pull off
it will help the mileage go up it it's leaking,not working right
but it will be a bugger to start cold.....oh Texas lol it won't be cold long!

[tucsonjwt]

If you buy an economy beater car, I advise staying away from foreign models because the cost of OEM replacement parts is much more than OEM domestic models. Also, used parts are abundant in junkyards for domestic models. Aftermarket parts for foreign models are usually of poor quality and a waste of money. I recently bought a 2002 Cavalier which is the laughing stock of the automotive press, but it gets 24-26 mpg city with minimal $$$ invested, and parts are readily available and cheap.

Having said all that, without a job I agree that you don't need more vehicle troubles. Any used vehicle (car, truck, whatever) will need significant $$$ in repairs if you want it to be reasonably safe and reliable.

An old square V8 won't get much better than 12-13 city mpg, so it is best not to drive it at all if gas money is a concern. I would take the bus until you can afford to drive a vehicle.

[BONUSCAB]

I recommend an econobox. My recommendation for an econobox: 87-93 mustang. Five 0h's knock out low to mid twenties, four cylinder models get high twenties, to low 30's. Parts are every where for them. Economical to buy and operate. Sexy. Stupid reliable. Pretty much the best cars ever made.

[Skunksmash]

Originally Posted by tucsonjwt

If you buy an economy beater car, I advise staying away from foreign models because the cost of OEM replacement parts is much more than OEM domestic models.

If you get a honda or toyota, you won't need the replacement parts. American, oh you bet you'll need 'em! Seriously though they run forever. I had a 355K mile honda civic. It wouldn't die, so God had to send a deer to kill it. The grim reaper couldn't kill it naturally for some reason.

Flame suit on

Originally Posted by BONUSCAB

I recommend an econobox. My recommendation for an econobox: 87-93 mustang. Five 0h's knock out low to mid twenties, four cylinder models get high twenties, to low 30's. Parts are every where for them. Economical to buy and operate. Sexy. Stupid reliable. Pretty much the best cars ever made.

Wish my 5.0 Got that, I got the 94 GT. Good shape but high mileage. 178k on the odometer. But that might explain why I get a few MPG less.