Pros/Cons to Leaving Cab On

[Jahloha]

Team:

I do not want to remove the cab from the frame, but also am not knowledgable enough to know the pros/cons to leaving it on the frame. There is minimal rust in the cab, check my first post on my build to see rust areas.

Seeing as Gramps had the truck in CA for its entire life, my concerns with this rebuild are future rust issues, seeing as I live UT. I plan on using Por 15 on the frame.

I know this is vague, but please chime in with your thoughts.

Mahalo!

[70blackfish]

4 bolts and it comes off. good time to paint where cab mounts and new cab mount rubbers.

[67ChevyRedneck]

If you have the means to remove it, do it. Instead of spending a day or two cleaning up the frame and bottom of cab, you can do it in a couple hours. Lots of people have used simple 2x4 and engine hoist set ups to take it off.

It's up to you. Personally, I didn't remove my cab, but I wasn't doing a frame off show truck either.

Also, unless it's been done before, you NEED to install new cab mounts.

[cdowns]

Originally Posted by 70blackfish

4 bolts and it comes off. good time to paint where cab mounts and new cab mount rubbers.

really?? what about the brake systems what about the steering wwhat about the wiring seems like alot more involved than 4bolts

pro// you can clean and paint that section with the cab still on and while you still r driven the truck on the road

con// ALOT more work to dismount the cab but alot easirer to paint and fewer months required that you have big patches of por15 painted black skin

[Jahloha]

Originally Posted by 67ChevyRedneck

If you have the means to remove it, do it. Instead of spending a day or two cleaning up the frame and bottom of cab, you can do it in a couple hours. Lots of people have used simple 2x4 and engine hoist set ups to take it off.

It's up to you. Personally, I didn't remove my cab, but I wasn't doing a frame off show truck either.

Also, unless it's been done before, you NEED to install new cab mounts.

RedNeck:

Thanks for the input. I am in the same boat as you, I am building a DD. When you addressed the needs on your truck, regarding the cab and underside, what did you do?

Thanks for taking a minute to respond.

[Jahloha]

Originally Posted by cdowns

really?? what about the brake systems what about the steering wwhat about the wiring seems like alot more involved than 4bolts

pro// you can clean and paint that section with the cab still on and while you still r driven the truck on the road

con// ALOT more work to dismount the cab but alot easirer to paint and fewer months required that you have big patches of por15 painted black skin

Cdowns:

Thanks for chiming in. I always appreciate veteran members helping the young guns out. Quick question, I was planning on replacing each cab mount, one at a time, to hopefully avoid alignment issues. Would this be correct in my thinking? Or is it not possible? What have you done?

Mahalo for the help!

[davischevy]

Take pics, lots of pics. Take your time and inventory your parts. Its not rocket science, just don't get in a hurry taking it apart or putting it back together. If you yell "tear down", like the TV shows, and throw the bolts and parts over your shoulder, your project is doomed.

I set the cab off with a 4X4 through the top of the door openings and a tow strap.

When you set the cab back on, there are all kinds of points on the frame to measure from, brackets holes etc. Don't worry about putting it back where it was, because after all these years it may not be right anyway. In the vehicles I have done, I was never satisfied with what I took apart. I needed to be realigned anyway. If you really want it right, set the core support, fenders, hood and cab for alignment, then tighten the cab down.

If you are afraid to do it more than once, sell your truck immediately.

[Mr Chevorlet]

It can be done either way, but with it on you will be on back a lot. But can still be driven. And taken it off is a long process but can be detailed a lot better.

[cdowns]

Originally Posted by Jahloha

Cdowns:

Thanks for chiming in. I always appreciate veteran members helping the young guns out. Quick question, I was planning on replacing each cab mount, one at a time, to hopefully avoid alignment issues. Would this be correct in my thinking? Or is it not possible? What have you done?

Mahalo for the help!

i have found it is actually easier to replace two at a time // left side then right side

i use a floor jack and 2X4's to jack a side abou 3-4 inches and carefully slide mounts into place// have done it that way quite a few times with no real issues

[terry b]

I also changed my body mount rubber two at a time. Right side left side. No problems at all. My core support mount rubbers were in bad shape compaired to the cab mount rubbers.

[hugger6933]

Change the rubbers one side at a time I am doing a 70 in my shop well was only to stop for a paint job on a 05 1500HD crew cab and a hood and fender repaint on a Park Ave Buick. Mine is down to just the motor trans and the cab, still to remove the cab. I am putting it on the rotissere to better get to everything and work in a more comfortable way. I know not all have a lift to take off the cab or a rotissere to put a cab or bed on but it will be so much nicer steam cleaning all of it that way and also in paint prep. The bed floor is really straight and the cab floor is gonna be nice as well so I thought I would go ahead and make it all pretty underneath as well as top side. This one truck was gonna be the cheaper one of the three this style I am building but it still is gonna be something anyone [or almost] would be proud to have. I say it is a little more work but it is just work,and why not take it on off and fix it up right. I am not saying that you can't do a frame on and build a nice truck not at all and if it is a driver project or a daily driver truck the plans may have been different and the truck may have not gotten as much love. But I am gonna reserve that idea for an original paint truck that has not been painted on before. good luck in what ever you decide and keep working and don't get discouraged.

[Jahloha]

Originally Posted by cdowns

i have found it is actually easier to replace two at a time // left side then right side

i use a floor jack and 2X4's to jack a side abou 3-4 inches and carefully slide mounts into place// have done it that way quite a few times with no real issues

Originally Posted by terry b

I also changed my body mount rubber two at a time. Right side left side. No problems at all. My core support mount rubbers were in bad shape compaired to the cab mount rubbers.

Awesome pointer you two! Makes a lot of sense. TerryB, can you help me clarify what the core supports are? My Assembly Manual is still on the way or I would have looked it up.

Mahalo,

[54belair]

If youre doing a daily driver----and dont have serious rust issues, Id just clean and paint fron underneath. As several have said, Id jack up one side at a time (may only need to come up an inch or two) and replace the mounts as well as the radiator core support mounts. Have fun with your truck,,

[Tinkermc]

Look at it another way, if you don't take the cab off and in a few years decide to show it some you will loose points every time for something so simple now. My 2 cents

[swamp rat]

Originally Posted by cdowns

really?? what about the brake systems what about the steering what about the wiring seems like alot more involved than 4bolts

pro// you can clean and paint that section with the cab still on and while you still r driven the truck on the road

con// A LOT more work to dismount the cab but a lot easier to paint and fewer months required that you have big patches of por15 painted black skin

I got to agree with CD on this one, its a lot more work and opens a lot of worm cans in the process.

The rust repair can be done whole on the frame if need be done, remove the bed for the cab corners if necessary to repair them.

Chances are you will need to replace cab mounts, if you are wanting to you could clean up the frame in the areas and put some Por 15 on them before the cab mounts go back in. Instead of 2 at a time I also did the radiator core at the same time, so i did 3 at a time first the driver then the passenger side, i used 2 jacks.

[pritch]

Hey Utah-Welcome from Hoytsville!

For me, it always comes down to the PITA factor. Unbolting a master cylinder from a firewall or a steering column at the rag joint (both of which need replaced anyway, I'm sure) is waaaaay less PITA than leaving the cab on. After that what else? Trans linkage, heater hoses and wires. To save hours and hours on a creeper outside now that it's winter? PITA Factor.

[leftybass209]

Really like stated, cab off requires a lot of little things to consider. You have to assume every piece you unbolt can break or be worn enough to need replacement. That could be a financial setback if you aren't prepared.

[nobolt]

can you help me clarify what the core supports are

just behind the grill. it goes all the way across. it bolts to the frame and right and left fenders bolt to it. and headlight buckets. and the battery box. and the fan shroud. etc. etc. it also holds the hood latch.

THE major structure for the front of the truck.

[primetime]

not only can the other components break while removing, but the actual 4 can bolts don't always come off smoothly either. if they are rounded off you might end up having to drill them out. somebody above mentioned the wiring harness has to be removed too. the power brake booster and lines need to come off. the transmission shift lever has to come off the cab. you have to remove the seat in order to get to the fuel tank to remove. and then the fuel lines for the tank.
all of those individually simple task can add up too. the steering column needs to be separated from the gear box too.

[Jahloha]

Originally Posted by swamp rat

I got to agree with CD on this one, its a lot more work and opens a lot of worm cans in the process.

The rust repair can be done whole on the frame if need be done, remove the bed for the cab corners if necessary to repair them.

Chances are you will need to replace cab mounts, if you are wanting to you could clean up the frame in the areas and put some Por 15 on them before the cab mounts go back in. Instead of 2 at a time I also did the radiator core at the same time, so i did 3 at a time first the driver then the passenger side, i used 2 jacks.

Thanks man! I just pulled the bed, so I'll be ready for that. And should I Por 15 while one side is jacked up, to address the top of the chassis?

Originally Posted by pritch

Hey Utah-Welcome from Hoytsville!

For me, it always comes down to the PITA factor. Unbolting a master cylinder from a firewall or a steering column at the rag joint (both of which need replaced anyway, I'm sure) is waaaaay less PITA than leaving the cab on. After that what else? Trans linkage, heater hoses and wires. To save hours and hours on a creeper outside now that it's winter? PITA Factor.

Good to meet you Pritch! Believe it or not, I have been through Hoytsville a time or two. And yeah, to be honest, I don't want to get in over my head on this. So I am thinking the cab will stay on. PS...PM me with any places to stay away from or places you trust for any work you've done, I am not familiar with area businesses.

Originally Posted by nobolt

just behind the grill. it goes all the way across. it bolts to the frame and right and left fenders bolt to it. and headlight buckets. and the battery box. and the fan shroud. etc. etc. it also holds the hood latch.

THE major structure for the front of the truck.

I assumed thats what was being talked about haha, I just didnt want to assume incorrectly. Thanks for the clarification. (PS the front clip is already off, would I replace the core support once it is back on the truck? Or have I already screwed up somehow lol.

Originally Posted by primetime

not only can the other components break while removing, but the actual 4 can bolts don't always come off smoothly either. if they are rounded off you might end up having to drill them out. somebody above mentioned the wiring harness has to be removed too. the power brake booster and lines need to come off. the transmission shift lever has to come off the cab. you have to remove the seat in order to get to the fuel tank to remove. and then the fuel lines for the tank.
all of those individually simple task can add up too. the steering column needs to be separated from the gear box too.

Yup, I am not quite ready to do all those things. So cab stays on, at least for the winter. I have enough to do already, with the cab staying on.

[litew8]

The 'core support', or some call it 'radiator support' has 2 rubber bushings (which is what is being talked about) beneath it that should be replaced along with the cab bushings (4). Rubber (like stock) would be best for replacement, but they also make polyurethane.

[swamp rat]

Originally Posted by litew8

The 'core support', or some call it 'radiator support' has 2 rubber bushings (which is what is being talked about) beneath it that should be replaced along with the cab bushings (4). Rubber (like stock) would be best for replacement, but they also make polyurethane.

Thats what i meant in my earlier post about doing 3 at a time, 2 cab mounts and the radiator support on one side, the the other 3 on the other side. My post may not have been that clear?

[litew8]

Not sure about clear as I didn't go back and reread. You can change the rad/core bushings anytime, it doesn't need done in a sequence since it is independent. \ Changing 2 at a time for the cab applies, due to raising the cab's sides, but nothing to do with rad support.