wilwood master cylinder size?

[mooseknuckles]

I'm wanting to swap my power brakes (4 wheel disc) over to a manual set up with a wilwood master cylinder, (no booster) what size bore master do I need?.....7/8" or 1"?.....do I keep the stock distribution block on there?....I know I also need an adjustable proportioning valve for the rear disc...

[Musclerodz]

Originally Posted by mooseknuckles

I'm wanting to swap my power brakes (4 wheel disc) over to a manual set up with a wilwood master cylinder, (no booster) what size bore master do I need?.....7/8" or 1"?.....do I keep the stock distribution block on there?....I know I also need an adjustable proportioning valve for the rear disc...

You only need the adjustable prop valve, not both. Typically you want a 7/8 for manual setup.

[mooseknuckles]

have you done this swap?

[screaminchevypickup]

I always run a 1" bore on the wilwood master with manual brakes..

[Scottshotrods]

With 4 wheel disc brakes and a manual master you want to run a 1 inch bore master and adjustable prop valve.We have all instock and good prices.If we can help you out let us know.You can p/m or call or e-mail

justin@scottshotrods.com
(805)485-0382

Justin

[CHRIS67GMC]

It depends on the brake kits you have on which to run 1 and 7/8 are both usable.

[mooseknuckles]

Originally Posted by CHRIS67GMC

It depends on the brake kits you have on which to run 1 and 7/8 are both usable.

.....the rear is wildwood dynalite 4 piston 12" rotors, the front is stock disc, but going to be the 6 piston 14" rotors in the not too distant future....and yeah I need the prop valve, cause the rears will lock up in you get on them too hard....

[CHRIS67GMC]

If your going to go with the 14 6 piston then go 7/8. I can get you the parts if you need them.

[LooseCannon]

Does anyone know how well a wilwood master cylinder will work with factory brakes? front disk/rear drum

[CHRIS67GMC]

Does anyone know how well a wilwood master cylinder will work with factory brakes? front disk/rear drum

I have not tried this. I think it can be done with a prop valve and residual valves in lines.

This master make install easier.

[68Stepbed]

Does that come as a kit with the prop valve?

[Bennett68C10]

Originally Posted by 68Stepbed

Does that come as a kit with the prop valve?

It does come as a kit, I saw them on Jegs website. I'm sure one of the vendors on here can hook you up. I plan on using this kit when the time comes. Just have to figure out if I want to run manual brakes, power with a booster or hydroboost

[Scottshotrods]

Originally Posted by Bennett68C10

It does come as a kit, I saw them on Jegs website. I'm sure one of the vendors on here can hook you up. I plan on using this kit when the time comes. Just have to figure out if I want to run manual brakes, power with a booster or hydroboost

We have them in stock by the dozens work excellent.We have GREAT prices on all Wilwood parts across the board.Let us know if we can help you out.Send us p/m or call or e-mail

Scotts@scottshotrods.com
(805)485-0382

[mooseknuckles]

picked it up today!

[mooseknuckles]

will the brake pedal from a 67-72 fit in my 86? I ordered the lokar direct fit one, hopefully I can make it work..?

[mooseknuckles]

done...

[mooseknuckles]

the 1/4" brake line that runs to the rear brakes, should I change that to a 3/16" line??

[mooseknuckles]

anybody?

[54Caddy]

Looks good. What did you do about brake booster holes and bracket? I see shaved firewall, also how did the pedal work out?

[mooseknuckles]

Originally Posted by 54Caddy

Looks good. What did you do about brake booster holes and bracket? I see shaved firewall, also how did the pedal work out?

the bracket is part of the booster....I cut all the studs off, removed them, and welded up the two lower holes then bolted the m/c up with new stainless bolts. the pedals are on back order....

[suspect]

Originally Posted by mooseknuckles

the 1/4" brake line that runs to the rear brakes, should I change that to a 3/16" line??

I would leave the 1/4" line as is. Prop valve will control pressure.

[mooseknuckles]

Originally Posted by suspect

I would leave the 1/4" line as is. Prop valve will control pressure.

too late. lol. I changed the rear line to 3/16", and ran new front lines, got a wildwood adjustable prop valve too....front pads are done, and the bleeders are seized so I bought the wildwood d52's for the front. also got my old line lock hooked up as well.

[gmhardwick66]

I don't mean to hack thread but the question was asked about which size bore m/c to use if using manual m/c with disc front and drum rear? I am going to make this change soon myself just to clean up engine bay.

[Mr.chivo]

Originally Posted by gmhardwick66

I don't mean to hack thread but the question was asked about which size bore m/c to use if using manual m/c with disc front and drum rear? I am going to make this change soon myself just to clean up engine bay.

Anyone has the answer to this question? Im also interested in doing this to replace the big brake booster setup on my 72.

[mooseknuckles]

with front disc and the rear drum brakes I would be guessing at 1 1/8" bore mc...but you might want to call wildwood to be 100%.