Question about the caster mod.

['68 Newtricks]

New member, old truck, new tricks Great to be here, finding lots of info to read. I'm absolutely in love with my '68 and can't wait to dive head first into this thing. Work drags on and projects run slow. We all know that though. Hoping to move this truck along as fast as possible. Let me introduce you to the family



'85 Blazer (oh lord I hope the C10 "finishes" quicker)





2001 S10 (DD for now, the C10 will take over duties)




Short bed frame

['68 Newtricks]

opps, might be the start of a build thread instead a simple question lol


Here's the truck. 1968 C20 long bed CST camper




Factory AC, bucket seat option (though seats are from something else)

['68 Newtricks]

I'll get into the details of the truck, but first my question.


I have some CPP tubular arms with newer ball joints. I like the idea of getting more caster out of the front. I'm not sure how big of a difference it will make as the truck runs the freeway nice as it. (I think the rag joint is done for though) But I am shooting for a truck that will out handle my current DD.

I see some people needing to clearance their arms or crossmember for up travel. But what about with tube arms? Also, I see some needing to cut the spring pocket some. I'm not afraid of doing this, but want to make sure it's worth it. What caster degree are we talking stock wise?

[Wrenchbender Ret]

I had a 70 short bed that handled better then anything I had. It was stock height & stock front end. I set the caster at 1 degree pos. & the camber at 1/8 neg. 235-75R x15 tires on 7 in wide alum. wheels. It drove great.

['68 Newtricks]

Dang, I replied but I don't see it Again...


My S10 (when it wasn't falling apart) drove real nice. Stable/smooth 120mph on the freeway, twisty mountain roads, all that good stuff. It feels very stable at speed. The C10 will need to be better. I'm running the Deluxe package from CPP. Tube arms, 4" drop, tube trailing, big brake, LS, blah blah blah But if all that cool stuff doesn't mean a damn thing because of horrible caster, well....

current progress

['68 Newtricks]

I guess what I should be asking is what is the factory caster set to? Obviously without piling on the shims, which hurts wheel well alignment anyway

[long'n low]

im no expert but i think the caster was around 1 deg, and i think the tubular arms add about 5 degrees. Guys who have modded their LCA shaft by moving it forward 3/4" have gained 6 degrees for a total of 7 degrees.

http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/s...d.php?t=501241

That is a great thread about caster.

[Ironangel]

Let me see if I understand this "caster mod" correctly...Your doing this to center up the wheel to the fender opening? Is that it? Does this mod increase clearance for the center link to cross member? End of questions...Thank you...

[long'n low]

Having more caster will keep your truck going in a straight line and will aid in returning your wheels to straight after a corner. I think this is the main reason; although centering the wheel is an added bonus.

[70STOVEBOLT]

So what is required to gain the extra caster, adding or subtracting shims?

[BMERDOC]

Adding shims to the front of the upper control arm will increase positive caster to answer that simply. To answer the main question. I haven't seen anyone do the Caster Mod with tubular control arms yet but I assume that it would be better simply because the arm isn't as bulky. I set my alignment up and wasn't able to get it over 3 degrees positive. I haven't done the mod yet It did feel better but it still felt dead. Doing the Caster Mod is a must if you want it to handle better.

http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/s...d.php?t=582187

['68 Newtricks]

Yeah, that is a great link. It's something I read before and got my head thinking. Since the truck is currently just a frame, doing it now makes since.

But I'm wondering if the tube arms already take care of this problem. CPP is unusually hard to get a hold of these last few days. It's always been easy up till now. Luckily they are only 30 miles from me. I plan to return some brake stuff and upgrade to the Big Brake stuff. So hopefully Saturday I'll have an answer about the caster.

[67ChevyRedneck]

Originally Posted by '68 Newtricks

My S10 (when it wasn't falling apart) drove real nice. Stable/smooth 120mph on the freeway,

They're capable of that? I had a 99 I4 5spd and it took all it had to get to 90 downhill

Been around these trucks a long time... this is the first I've heard of a "caster mod" for them... something new every day....

[eldogg]

The most I've been able to move factory arms is 5/8.

['68 Newtricks]

Even 5/8" would probably be awesome. The more the caster the better, to a point of course.

Finally got through to CPP. The guy (who I've been working with the whole time) says the arms are designed to work with factory stuff and factory dimensions, so no... the arms change nothing.

I'm probably going to replace the indexing pin on the frame for now (the spacer, not the pin) and run the arms as is. Later, it will be easier to make the change. I'm sure I'll notice a difference if stock is only 1*. The slightly more centered wheel is a bonus.

['68 Newtricks]

LOL and I'm not coming up with this mod. I read about it hear first! Haha

['68 Newtricks]

I just wanted to make something clear about the CPP arms.

Someone had said that the arms add caster and I said they didn't. (According to the CPP dude on the phone)

Well, according to the directions that came with the arms....

Sorry about the head tilt