Why Won't My 454 Harmonic Balancer Fit?

[savatreatabvr]

I started putting the harmonic balancer back on my 454 after replacing the old timing chain and it doesn't seem to want to fit! I know it's supposed to be tight but come on! I already stripped the original HB bolt for some reason, (it was not cross threaded) and had to buy a new one, I've got about an inch left to go for the HB to be where it was, I'm contemplating hammering it on the rest of the way! I know that's not right but what else do I do?

[mgchevyparts]

You need to use the proper install tool. It's thread to screw into the crank then it has larger diameter threads to screw(press) the dampner on. The only way to do it correctly and safely. You usually can't install them all the way if you're trying to use the crank bolt as your press, plus you'll strip the bolt or worst yet the crank hole.
This is what the tool looks like: http://www.rakuten.com/prod/proform-...FRSPfgodhXMAgw

[Jake Wade]

Originally Posted by mgchevyparts

You need to use the proper install tool. It's thread to screw into the crank then it has larger diameter threads to screw(press) the dampner on. The only way to do it correctly and safely. You usually can't install them all the way if you're trying to use the crank bolt as your press, plus you'll strip the bolt or worst yet the crank hole.
This is what the tool looks like: http://www.rakuten.com/prod/proform-...FRSPfgodhXMAgw

Yep, money well spent

[kalbert]

Correct tool x3

You will not hammer it on, it will booger up the pulley mounting surface, could bend the crank, ruin the lateral surface on the rear main, and so on and you still won't have the damper pushed on all the way.

You *might* pull it on with the bolt, if you oil the threads and go slow, use a wrench not an impact. Use a bolt longer than what's need to get it started so you have a good amount of thread to bite on, but don't drive it in so far that it bottoms out.

Or you could get the tool that's for that and it'll just about put itself on. Your local auto parts store might even rent you one vs buying.

[Slammed84]

Another trick is to boil some water and keep the snout of the balancer in there for a bit. Get it good and hot before you install. It'll expand the snout, oil it up good too.

The install tool is a must have for sure

[Slammed84]

You basically have to use an impact, because the wrench will just turn the motor unless you have someone backin up the flywheel

[BigBlocksRule]

That bolt is not meant to be used to pull the balancer on, just to help old it!!! You can generally get a loaner from most of the bigger auto parts stores. Put some grease on the snout of the crank and in the balancer hole to help prevent galling.

[savatreatabvr]

Since I've got the harmonic balancer almost all the way on by tapping it with a hammer I'm thinking about using a torch (carefully) to heat up the snout of the HB. I know the rubber insert on the HB can't take much heat so wish me luck!

[Chevy3+3]

Originally Posted by savatreatabvr

Since I've got the harmonic balancer almost all the way on by tapping it with a hammer I'm thinking about using a torch (carefully) to heat up the snout of the HB. I know the rubber insert on the HB can't take much heat so wish me luck!

Well good luck but you've been warned by several knowledgeable people in the above posts. Each one of them said to get the right tool to install. You are skirting the edge of making your problems worse. You can rent a tool from a parts store and get your money back once your done. That's pretty simple and cheap insurance policy so you don't screw something up.

[f.monroe]

That much heat is going to kill the seal in the timing cover.
Frank

[kalbert]

Man, just get the tool thats for that. Its cheap to buy, cheaper to rent, and you'd be done already. Why screw around any more and risk really making a mess?

[inc4203]

My name is Ivan and I work for an aftermarket damper (balancer) manufacturer. I agree the proper installation tool is the best way to go. I am not sure if you are using an aftermarket crank or balancer but either way if possible I always recommend checking the bore diameter of the balancer and the outer diameter of the crankshaft. Any non-OEM products, in particular cheap offshore, tend to vary all over the place in sizing. A proper diametrical press fit should be .0005"/.0015" however going up to .002" will be ok. Any more of a press fit and you should consider honing the balancer bore to the correct size. It is also a good idea to use some type of anti-sieze or moly grease when installing the damper. Also be sure to inspect the crankshaft bolt. Any sign of damage, spend the few bucks and replace with a grade 8 or better. If money is not an option... buy an ARP!

RULE #1 NEVER beat the balancer on with a hammer. This can cause damage to both the balancer and crank.

RULE #2 DO NOT heat the balancer going on the crank. You will likely damage the rubber which is the material that absorbs the torsional vibrations (harmonics) damaging this rubber will certainly compromise the ability of the damper to absorb vibrations. And like another member stated will likely damage the seal.

[Aaron_L]

I worked in a machine shop when I was younger, and when a balancer was tight we honed them to go on easier.

[Oldriginal86]

X2 on using the balancer installer. They are not as expensive as a new balancer or worse yet a crankshaft. Make sure the key has not rolled up and stopping the progress. Personally I would remove and measure as previously mentioned.

[Slammed84]

I learned the hard way. Hell all I did was install the HB bolt to allow me to turn my engine over while it was on a stand.

Stripped the crap out of it and needless to say I was '' Cranky"

[kalbert]

Originally Posted by inc4203

My name is Ivan and I work for an aftermarket damper (balancer) manufacturer. I agree the proper installation tool is the best way to go. I am not sure if you are using an aftermarket crank or balancer but either way if possible I always recommend checking the bore diameter of the balancer and the outer diameter of the crankshaft. Any non-OEM products, in particular cheap offshore, tend to vary all over the place in sizing. A proper diametrical press fit should be .0005"/.0015" however going up to .002" will be ok. Any more of a press fit and you should consider honing the balancer bore to the correct size. It is also a good idea to use some type of anti-sieze or moly grease when installing the damper. Also be sure to inspect the crankshaft bolt. Any sign of damage, spend the few bucks and replace with a grade 8 or better. If money is not an option... buy an ARP!

RULE #1 NEVER beat the balancer on with a hammer. This can cause damage to both the balancer and crank.

RULE #2 DO NOT heat the balancer going on the crank. You will likely damage the rubber which is the material that absorbs the torsional vibrations (harmonics) damaging this rubber will certainly compromise the ability of the damper to absorb vibrations. And like another member stated will likely damage the seal.

When a guy who works for a company that makes dampers joins a forum just to tell you you're doing it wrong, you know you've got to be doing it wrong.

[Sillyoldman]

Originally Posted by savatreatabvr

Since I've got the harmonic balancer almost all the way on by tapping it with a hammer I'm thinking about using a torch (carefully) to heat up the snout of the HB. I know the rubber insert on the HB can't take much heat so wish me luck!

Please put the hammer away and let your thought pass on the torch! There's some good solid advise here so far, I'd utilize it.

[LynnJr]

Most of the chain auto supply stores loan them for "FREE".

They have you give them a deposit then give you the deposit back when you bring the tool back.You can use cash a credit or atm card.

I have a O'Rielly's store near by and do it all the time.

[tony58]

Originally Posted by savatreatabvr

Since I've got the harmonic balancer almost all the way on by tapping it with a hammer I'm thinking about using a torch (carefully) to heat up the snout of the HB. I know the rubber insert on the HB can't take much heat so wish me luck!

PLEASE, don't ever work on any other persons car.

[Desert1957]

Originally Posted by tony58

please, don't ever work on any other persons car.

lmfao......

[savatreatabvr]

Originally Posted by kalbert

When a guy who works for a company that makes dampers joins a forum just to tell you you're doing it wrong, you know you've got to be doing it wrong.

Thank you all for the advice and constructive criticism! The torch is put away and I'm picking up a HB puller today so I can pull it back off and check the keys and then grease up the crankshaft before putting the HB back on. I'm assuming the loose timing chain is why I had no power in the first place so by replacing the TC it should run like a raped ape! I'll post my results after I've finished this project!

Again, I sincerely appreciate all of the killer advice and constructive criticism I get from this forum it helps me out a lot!

[rs72z]

Originally Posted by savatreatabvr

Thank you all for the advice and constructive criticism! The torch is put away and I'm picking up a HB puller today so I can pull it back off and check the keys and then grease up the crankshaft before putting the HB back on. I'm assuming the loose timing chain is why I had no power in the first place so by replacing the TC it should run like a raped ape! I'll post my results after I've finished this project!

Again, I sincerely appreciate all of the killer advice and constructive criticism I get from this forum it helps me out a lot!

Get a balancer installer while your there! Greasing the crank isn't going to help. Just saying.

[Tx Firefighter]

I was installing one today so I figured I'd snap pictures to show how easy it can be.

Push balancer on as far as possible by hand.



This is the tool. I bought mine from Summit years ago. Not expensive really.



Screw the tool into the crankshaft until it bottoms.



Now take a wrench and tighten the big nut. The silver deal next to the nut is a thrust bearing that removes the friction from the process.



Done.



Literally, from the time I had the tool in my hand until the time it was fully installed was 30 seconds max. No trauma, no drama.

[gmachinz]

Contrary to an above post, turning that nut IS NOT going to.turn the motor over....the force applied to such a small diameter shaft is not going to turn the entire motor over. IF for some reason of Asgard the motor wants to turn, just wedge the flexplate to the ground with a prybar or the like. No hammers and no torches.

[Tx Firefighter]

To add to what gmachinz posted, using the tool posted above didn't even turn my engine over much and I have no heads on it, and hence no compression to resist turning. Even with no compression to offer resistance all I had to do was keep one hand on the balancer while the other tightened the tool.