what would it take to get 100mph

[swizzlestick]

Hello all. I'm not sure I've officially introduced myself even though I've been bothering you guys for years. My name's Chad and have a 49 3100 chevy. I started an s-10 swap but realize now I'd rather do a more traditional style truck with lowered original frame and running gear. so the question is can I get an era correct inline 6 and the three on the tree tranny to safely go 100mph(not that I need to go that fast but id like it if i could). would the trans have low enough gears to just hop-up the engine a little and put a high geared rear in it? how would they have done it back in the 50's? Thanks, Chad

[BADAZ chevy guy]

Originally Posted by swizzlestick

Hello all. I'm not sure I've officially introduced myself even though I've been bothering you guys for years. My name's Chad and have a 49 3100 chevy. I started an s-10 swap but realize now I'd rather do a more traditional style truck with lowered original frame and running gear. so the question is can I get an era correct inline 6 and the three on the tree tranny to safely go 100mph(not that I need to go that fast but id like it if i could). would the trans have low enough gears to just hop-up the engine a little and put a high geared rear in it? how would they have done it back in the 50's? Thanks, Chad

My dad had a 49 3100, 5 window. The motor was bored .040, and he had a duel exhaust from a 53 Corvette. 3 on the tree transmission.
To address your transmission gearing, long before you get to 100 MPH you'll be in third gear. All transmissions are 1:1 ratio in high gear (Over drives not included) So, the gearing may help you get to high gear faster, but high gear gets you down the track. The rear end gearing is what helps you build to speed on the top end.
I don't know if dad's truck could make 100 MPH, but I know it would flat out run most all the V8's of the time.

[dwcsr]

Short answer is no.
1. Gears to get that fast for that rear are very expensive if you can get them.
2. The 216 is a low speed motor 235 is a better option but still not good. The crank weighs 85 lbs. Spinning it fast enough to go 100 mph on Babbitt rods and steel pistons is a scary proposition. At 3000 rpm they sound like their screaming at you.
3. The trans wasn't designed for that kind of driving.
4. Brakes weren't designed to stop at that speed.
5. The other dozen reasons its a bad idea.

In the 50's they didn't do that motor in trucks. 235's were often hopped up but expensive to do now. $2800- 3500 for a rebuilt is not uncommon. But still not a motor for modern highway driving.

If you want a old truck with a 100 mph capability change the rear to a S10 rear, a newer 5 speed trans and a 230 or 250 inline 6. put disc brakes on the front

[OrrieG]

Go to inliners.org. Start looking for a 292 or 302. High gearing, od trans and hp to push it thru the air will do it. And up grade suspension and brakes. It will be a slug in town.

[PDW HOTRODS]

I would not want to take one of these truck in stock form to 100 mph. They dont handle well, and the brakes are not good enough. Minimum to get there would be upgrade master cylnder if not go all the way to disc brakes, all new rebuilt suspension, and sway bar. Even then it might get scary. I had one with Nova subframe, disc brakes, and lowered and I had it to 140 once. The truck and drivetrane would do more but the shape of a brick is just not made for it.

[Bone$]

turbo

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Vk-AJEkkR9I

[swizzlestick]

let me clarify a bit. I know I'll want to upgrade some steering and suspension components, brakes, and maybe go to the 235 for that speed. but id like to use a drop axle and lowered leaf springs. and i know the motor can be built to make enough power(at a cost of course). I knew I was gonna probably need a newer rear with higher gears. I guess the big thing is can I keep the original column with three on the tree and trans and get there. just want something that can do 80+mph because some times thats what it takes on the highway to not be in the way. is there maybe an aftermarket three speed that would work with the column?

[mr48chev]

PDW Hotrods does have a point, with the stock suspension under the truck you would want it in top shape and have some really good shocks and tires on it before going out and running 100 + on roads with it. I had the suspension in really good shape on mine when I put the 283 out of my T bucket in it and it would do 100 with ease cruising at 80 at 3000 rpm with the rear end I had under it then. It drove good at 80 but would scare the poo out of you when you got up over 100. After I subframed it and put the 350 in it I drove it faster than I want to remember and it handled fine but I don't plan on doing that again.

[1project2many]

I've had the '57 to 114 in MT. I thought it was only about 85 but the friend I was following let me know the correct speed when the trip was over. We were not racing, just driving to Billings. I sent my speedometer out to be recalibrated the next day.

There are many reasons why the 216 is not appropriate for this. As mentioned, the GMC 292 / 302 engines are better candidates and with forced induction and fuel injection they can make very usable power over a wide rpm range. It would be a good excercise when thinking of this type of question to calculate the engine speed with your gear ratio and tire size at 100 mph, and to find a page that calculates HP required based on vehicle frontal area, coefficient of drag, and desired speed.
http://www.powerblocktv.com/resources/
http://www.rbracing-rsr.com/aerohpcalc.html

Please, please consider the safety of yourself and people around you. The vehicle could be pushed that fast but the odds that you will get into trouble are greater and the chances of saving yourself and / or the people around you are less. As mentioned, there are some important upgrades that should be considered before embarking on this trip. My vehicle at least had good brakes, a very solid suspension, and a good sway bar. And I was not intending to drive at the speed I did. And please do not try this in a place where others could be hurt. Bad enough to hurt yourself but unforgivable to hurt someone who had no part in your folly.

[_Ogre]

truk has no problems driving with the speedo pegged and ogre enjoys driving it there
but it also has 4 wheel disc power brakes, front and rear sway bars, ifs, 700r4 and 3.27 rear gear

[MARTINSR]

Originally Posted by PDW HOTRODS

I would not want to take one of these truck in stock form to 100 mph. They dont handle well, and the brakes are not good enough. Minimum to get there would be upgrade master cylnder if not go all the way to disc brakes, all new rebuilt suspension, and sway bar. Even then it might get scary. I had one with Nova subframe, disc brakes, and lowered and I had it to 140 once. The truck and drivetrane would do more but the shape of a brick is just not made for it.

With the stock suspension and a Buick 401 I ran 14:62 @95 MPH all the time at the drags. If it's in good condition it isn't a big deal. No I couldn't take the first turn off at the end that I could easily do with my 65 Gran Sport that ran 100 MPG but it wasn't like it was dangerous.

Again, I will say it again about the brakes, leave more room and you don't need discs. They are good, they are great but damn it isn't a MUST have for most trucks and how they are driven. The owner has to decide if they will work for what he is doing with the truck. But driving it every day with drums worked for a long long time, um about 75 years 99% of the cars and trucks on the road had only drums. We now have ABS discs and I am looking out my office window at a lot full of wrecked few year old cars, it didn't stop them from running into things! LOL

Leave room guys, Leave room! You don't have to drive slower, just leave room.

Brian

[Dan in Pasadena]

Ok, what's wrong with Ogre's picture?

He's DRIVING 100mph while taking it!

[dwcsr]

Originally Posted by Dan in Pasadena

Ok, what's wrong with Ogre's picture?

He's DRIVING 100mph while taking it!

I think he just jacked up a wheel and had his kid stomp the gas

[Highsider]

Originally Posted by dwcsr

I think he just jacked up a wheel and had his kid stomp the gas

[OrrieG]

naw, I see two hands on the wheel in the reflection, his co-pilot took the photo...

[1project2many]

Originally Posted by dwcsr

I think he just jacked up a wheel and had his kid stomp the gas

An air drill on the speedo cable can do the same thing!

[_Ogre]

Originally Posted by OrrieG

naw, I see two hands on the wheel in the reflection, his co-pilot took the photo...

ding ding ding: we have a winner.

also notice the pic is taken from the pass side and yes both hands are on the wheel in the reflection.
set up the way i have it, truk gets 20 mpg cruising at 80 mph

like martinsr stated i see these trucks with stock suspension at the track all the time doing 90+
here in michigan driving any vehicle 100mph is suicide, a pot hole will take you out

[_Ogre]

and for the record... truk has been on the track at indy
some of you may recognize the track



and this was are average speed around the brick yard

[MARTINSR]

That is SOOOOO cool to be able to drive on Indy, even at 10 mph, that is sooooo cool!

Brian

[whitedog76]

I got this one to 80MPH.

[PDW HOTRODS]

Even if you only plan on going in a straight line, without everything very good and a sway bar, a cross wind will tip and push the truck around at speed.

[OrrieG]

This got me curious about what it would take drive train wise to get a AD to 100 mph with a six cylinder engine. Using the two calculators and old manual I found that the stock 235 puts out 85 HP at 3300 rpm.

The truck has about 27 square feet of frontage are, assumed drag coefficient of .9, and smallest 1/2 ton weighs 2570 pounds. Using the wallace calculator we find we need 175 hp to get to 100 mph, more than double the stock 235.

Using the second calculator assuming a 1.0 final trans ration, 3.08 rear end and 28" tall tire the engine will need to turn 3700 rpm at 100mph, 400 more than the 235 peak hp. Changing to a 2.73 rear end gets the rpm down to 3277. Keeping the 3.08 but using a trans with .6 od final ration the rpm drops to 2220.

Quick search revealed that the 55 Vette 235 put out 150 HP. Found other references to ones modified with after market multicarb setups, split exhaust manifold/header and cam getting to 175 hp.

SO if you spend the money to upgrade the 235 and get a 2.73 rearend it is doable. Or you can just get a junk yard 350 or 283/327 that starts in the 200 hp range stock for much less. Could even get a OD trans in the swap and try for 120...


http://www.powerblocktv.com/resources/
http://www.wallaceracing.com/Calcula...or%20Speed.php

[mr48chev]

Well you live too far away but just east of Whitefish Montana on I 90 is a down hill run with a good grade that runs for a lot of miles that I coasted down at over 70 with the engine off due to having a leaking fuel pump. A guy should be able to get about anything up to 100 on that grade.

If you want to hop your own engine this book was written in 1951 about hopping up Chevy and GMC sixes from that time. All 1951 technology too. How to Hop up Chevrolet & GMC Engines: Roger...

[swizzlestick]

Thanks! thats some good info. so its possible as long as I can put $5k in the engine. thats what I figured. I do have a 327 (or at least it was before rebuild) but if I went with a carbed engine id rather do inline 6. my taste is starting to sway to the more traditional style hot rods. but im not quite a traditionalist snob yet!

[MARTINSR]

But let's also say that you of course shouldn't be driving 100 mph anywhere but a drag strip. And YES if you plan on doing anything like that on the road you should be thinking about suspension and brake upgrades. If THAT is what you expectations are, you should be upgrading it.

I push my little modification fight but as I have said over and over, if it's what fits YOUR expectations you need to do it. Do you plan on driving it like a late model car whipping thru winding roads at a break neck speed, upgrade it for goodness sakes.


Brian