Door weatherstrip leak

[highwinger]

The burb got rained on pretty hard today for the first time. The driver side door leaked pretty bad at the top front corner near a weld seam it appears. I think the pass side leaks there too, so I assume it's an inherent problem others have solved.

Any suggestions?

[vectorit]

Typically its because the roof gutter caulking is gone or brittle and cracked, thus leaving the pinch weld open to water getting in and running down the inside of the A pillar.
Best thing to do is to wire brush out the gutter down to bare metal, then paint something like POR-15 into the brushed area. Then once that dries, apply new caulking into the gutter. Proper roof caulking can be found from places like Eastwood, and some vendors carry it as well.

[highwinger]

Thanks Chris. I read a thread that mentioned not filling up the gutters or shaving them off. Mine are filled across the front and tapered back to the rear of the front doors. There's some cracks in that filler or paint at least, but I wouldn't this is the primary source of water entry. Is this filler bad a thing?

There's a little rust on the inside under the weather stripping. I oozed some sealant on the upper side the w.s. In attempt to keep the from behind the w.s. and hopefully out of the cabin.

It also appears the door isn't contacting the w.s. right about the weldment area too. The door left a mark everywhere else except about an inch there.

So the water appears to be entering behind the w.s. and between the door frame.

[vectorit]

The gutter on your Suburban looks very good, so I would move on from that area as suspect.

The next place I would focus on is the windshield weather striping in the lower corners. When you wash your truck, put a small towel in the corners of the dash and see if water seeps through.

Being that your Suburban was sitting parked during the rain storm, the door weather strip would not be the source of the leaks at my first investigation. Thats not to say to rule it out, but I would be looking at the areas where water runs down. Unless your rain storm was with driving rain, that would have blown side ways to hit the doors.

Have you sat in the truck and had a garden hose run over the roof of the Suburban, just to see if you can see the source of the leaks as it happens yet?

[highwinger]

Originally Posted by vectorit

The gutter on your Suburban looks very good, so I would move on from that area as suspect.

The next place I would focus on is the windshield weather striping in the lower corners. When you wash your truck, put a small towel in the corners of the dash and see if water seeps through.

Being that your Suburban was sitting parked during the rain storm, the door weather strip would not be the source of the leaks at my first investigation. Thats not to say to rule it out, but I would be looking at the areas where water runs down. Unless your rain storm was with driving rain, that would have blown side ways to hit the doors.

Have you sat in the truck and had a garden hose run over the roof of the Suburban, just to see if you can see the source of the leaks as it happens yet?

Checking the windshield is a good suggestion. I need to do a hose test. I have seen it drip in around the upper door. I couldn't tell if its from the outside or inside of the w.s.

It drips onto the corner of the seat and the floor mat. The rain was very hard today (typ daily summer rain) and on the driver side. The pass side wasn't wet this time but I've seen water drip there too.

On my Camaro, the kick panel vents are prone to leaking, but the burb's are different. They aren't a normal issue on burbs? It doesn't feel wet from the vents. Mine are covered so the panels would be wet.

[vectorit]

Another source of leaks in the cab, is particular to the passenger side.
That leak I have seen come from the radio antennae cable, since the water will come down the fender hole and travel down the cable.

Take the glove box out, and check that and if it appears to be a source of water coming in. Just silicone around the hole that the cable comes through.

I have seen water come in through the kick panel vents before, and that was due to rot in the cowl and water coming through.

Also crawl up under the dash with a flash light, and look around for water trails in the dust. I have seen a water trail that ran down the inner firewall above the fuse block, and then all around the fuses! If the terminals are rusty, it's a good sign you are getting water from above. Every time I have seen that, it was because of a bad windshield weather strip.

[highwinger]

Great tips Chris. I appreciate it.

Got to drive in the rain again already and I think the sealant helped. I didn't get water until I turned. Came from the outside of the ws between the door. I think I need to replace that ws. Is there extra thick ws? Any recommended supplier? Yearone?

[vectorit]

I have no recommendation on what is a best brand of weather striping to buy, since I purchased mine many years ago from Brothers most likely.

Many of the board vendors I am sure would be able to help you out for sure, just make sure your order doesn't get confused with a pick up set. Since I am sure you know already, the pick up door has a curved window frame where as the Suburban is squared.

[highwinger]

Originally Posted by vectorit

I have no recommendation on what is a best brand of weather striping to buy, since I purchased mine many years ago from Brothers most likely.

Many of the board vendors I am sure would be able to help you out for sure, just make sure your order doesn't get confused with a pick up set. Since I am sure you know already, the pick up door has a curved window frame where as the Suburban is squared.

I didn't know that. Good call. The website don't readily distinguish between burbs & trucks.

[highwinger]

I have the new weatherstripping on order from Brothers along with some other stuff. That seems like a great source for the burb.

I believe I have a windshield leak too since there was some water dripping from behind the glove box and there was a little water (and rust) up where the windshield meets the dash. :-(

[highwinger]

Question on applying sealant per the AIM. The drawing doesn't really detail where to apply the sealant. Does it go on both sides and all along the pinch weld? The pic shows the butt joint sealant on the ends but no details between the w.s. & body.

Any help?

[Bigdav160]

We used to use some vacuum hose inside the connection and make the final glue up with super glue.

[highwinger]

Originally Posted by Bigdav160

We used to use some vacuum hose inside the connection and make the final glue up with super glue.

Notice they don't glue the round parts. They cut a wedge out in the round part in another location to allow air to flow. So, I'm not concerned about gluing that part.

I'm really asking about the w.s. adhesion to the pinch all round the door. Does it need a continuous bead all around the door? Inside and out? Just spot glue? No glue?

[highwinger]

Brothers says to put a thin, smooth layer on the outside of the flat pinch weld. I might have to sand & repaint to get a good smooth surface.

Sound right?

[vectorit]

I used a continuos bead of weatherstrip adhesive around the entire perimeter of the door on the outside surface of the door jam, and I left the inside of the door jam alone. If I remember correctly, I didn't do it all at once. I glued the corners first, then used box clips to hold the rubber in place for the glue to set.
Once that was done, I glued the straight lengths and again used the box clips to hold the rubber tight while the glue set.

[highwinger]

I'm going to tackle this issue this weekend finally.

I ordered this set of 3 door seals for $60:
http://www.brotherstrucks.com/prodin...number=DFSS03D

Another thread mentioned this vendor but cost is $140 per pair:
http://www.steelerubber.com/door-wea...rip-70-1426-72

Is Steele's worth that much more? The picture seems like they might be a little thicker & thus stiffer which I would expect provide a better seal.

[highwinger]

I just ordered Steele's weatherstripping. After working all weekend preping the surface for the w/s, I saw a gap between with the door closed. It wasn't making contact to the w/s where it was leaking.

Steele show's a cross section of theirs and its 3/16" wider which would fill the gap. I called and they offered to measure their stock. The width measured 1-1/16" as pictured and the wall thickness is 1/8" which is more than the Brothers parts I have. I expect these to work better.

[highwinger]

This problem isn't going away. I don't think these are burb specific since it doesn't have the sharp 90 bend for the upper rear.

I can try it tho. One nice thing about Steele is they over a replacement even after years if they leak.

[Sammy]

Old hinged type clothes pins work good to hold the seal in place until it cures

[highwinger]

Originally Posted by Sammy

Old hinged type clothes pins work good to hold the seal in place until it cures

test

[highwinger]

Having posting issues...
I can try clothespin, but I also have a variety of woodworking clamps I can use.
The part I think will be tough is applying the adhesive inside the channel only on one side without touching the two walls together.
It appears I'll have to miter the new w/s parts.

[Grumpy old man]

Looking at the paint loss/marring your door window frame is hitting the top front edge of door opening and is misaligned and looks to be pushing the front door window frame out of place . It was common practice to use a BIG rubber hammer to align these door window frames when manufactured .It may just need a slight persuasive ADJUSTMENT !

[highwinger]

Originally Posted by Grumpy old man

Looking at the paint loss/marring your door window frame is hitting the top front edge of door opening and is misaligned and looks to be pushing the front door window frame out of place . It was common practice to use a BIG rubber hammer to align these door window frames when manufactured .It may just need a slight persuasive ADJUSTMENT !

That is likely but I don't think it is hitting now. I found older pics of this burb when its side mirrors were mounted on top of the door. I think that caused some of the paint removal at least.

[highwinger]

Doing more weatherstripping research...

I called Precision Restoration Parts to ask about these: http://precisionrestorationparts.com...-suburban.html

They wouldn't give me a dimension on their parts (which they make) but he said they are likely the same ones sold by Brothers. He mentioned someone else was inquiring about push-on w/s like what is used on modern vehicles. He said it may be available in 6months nd to email him then: derek@prp.com

He suggested I try LMC since he doesn't sell to them. They couldn't readily measure the parts, but she did submit a request to do so which may take a few days.

I expect to get Steele's parts in today or tomorrow to see how they work. I believe these will work better but will need mods to fit right. With that feedback, they be willing to offer a burb specific version in the future.

[highwinger]

Talked to Jake at Steele Rubber (jturner@steelerubber.com ext211)...

He confirmed their catalog incorrectly grouped the burb in with the truck parts and they fixed that. They will be looking into making a burb specific (GM3951815,6) weatherstripping. It may take a month tho.

Note: if anyone has a GM original part, I'm sure he'd appreciate getting his hands on it to make a mold.

Meanwhile, I will eval mitering the one corner with their truck parts and otherwise general fit.