New Member/Project NJ

[zosoppp]

Greetings all,

Just bought a rough survivor 1970 C10 LWB Fleetside (found on CL) locally in NJ.

The frame doesn't appear to be bad, surface rust and mud but no holes. Haven't had it up in the air yet, but what I could see/feel looked OK.

The cab has issues in all the usual places, right rear lower corner, both rockers, small holes/bubbles around the driver's door rain gutter.

The engine was replaced by the PO with a newer 350 and the truck is complete, and aside from the engine is original as it left the factory.

Has rear leaves instead of coil springs, was originally a 350 engine, has PS and PB (original 4 wheel drums) and the tanks' been replaced recently but is still in the cab.

The PO also still has the original 350 engine stripped down and cleaned ready for machining and rebuilding. It's allegedly a number's matching (didn't think that GM did that on truck blocks that old) engine that he'd offer me separately.

My question for the group at this point, is there value to having the original block (or even a block that's of the correct vintage)? The seller was an engine builder (now retired) and is telling me that the older blocks are thicker castings, and also with higher nickel content (has 010 cast on the block end).

Otherwise on the to do list is to look into front brake upgrade to disk, and tank relocation. Also I see a lot of body work in my future to arrest what rust has started, and of course the rockers. Also the passenger door mechanism is stuck and the door will not open so I'll have to see about that. I might have to pull the seat and door card to see what's gone wrong inside the door.

Anyway, looking forward to an adventure in restoration.

[Lattimer]

Matching numbers means nothing in these trucks unless you are trying for a concourse style restoration. Certain older blocks do have better metallurgy, but not sure in practical application it really matters.

Keep in mind that you will find twice as much rust as you can see, so be prepared for that.

[zosoppp]

So with the help of a friend (and a new silverado 2500 diesel 4x4) and a uhaul auto trailer, we got the truck to it's new home. The front tires were almost too big for the u-haul's tire straps, so we aired them down a little bit, and the truck barely fit lengthwise, but it's home.

Next task, installing door lock cylinders with keys (PO had no door keys, apparently never bothered locking it).

I have to say it's anti-climactic to hand yourself the keys to your new truck, especially after half an hours work (was actually longer, but since the passenger door still won't open at all, I had to make sure that I wasn't going to screw it up, and lock the driver's door shut permanently.

(Of course with all the rust in the cab that probably wouldn't be that permanent).

Next task, probably some more work on getting the passenger door opened. The door lock pull does go up and down, but it won't release the opener crank for some reason. I have to see if I can get all four bottom panel screws out of the door with it closed, will probably soak them for a day with PB blaster first. Also that window won't crank down either, so that should be fun to look forward to.


Also must say that the right tool for the right job applies here, specifically the window crank/door latch handle removal tool. I could swear I still had one from back in the day when I had a '78 Malibu classic wagon, but I'll be damned if I could find it.

[Lattimer]

Originally Posted by zosoppp

So with the help of a friend (and a new silverado 2500 diesel 4x4) and a uhaul auto trailer, we got the truck to it's new home. The front tires were almost too big for the u-haul's tire straps, so we aired them down a little bit, and the truck barely fit lengthwise, but it's home.

Next task, installing door lock cylinders with keys (PO had no door keys, apparently never bothered locking it).

I have to say it's anti-climactic to hand yourself the keys to your new truck, especially after half an hours work (was actually longer, but since the passenger door still won't open at all, I had to make sure that I wasn't going to screw it up, and lock the driver's door shut permanently.

(Of course with all the rust in the cab that probably wouldn't be that permanent).

Next task, probably some more work on getting the passenger door opened. The door lock pull does go up and down, but it won't release the opener crank for some reason. I have to see if I can get all four bottom panel screws out of the door with it closed, will probably soak them for a day with PB blaster first. Also that window won't crank down either, so that should be fun to look forward to.


Also must say that the right tool for the right job applies here, specifically the window crank/door latch handle removal tool. I could swear I still had one from back in the day when I had a '78 Malibu classic wagon, but I'll be damned if I could find it.

I just use a small right angle pick for pulling the clips on the door handles and window cranks.

[kcsa75]

Welcome to the forum. C'mon in. You're among friends here.

[EARNHARDT#3]

I saw that one on Craig's. I search Craig's everyday for C10 parts and whole trucks. Never know what you're going to find!

[pwdcougar]

Welcome! Another Jersey member.

Where are you located? I missed this one on CL.

Paul

[hanly2]

Must be Central or North jersey because this truck didn't come up on my search either. lol

[mx289]

Welcome to the forum.
Looks like a great project you got.

[88Ironduke]

Good looking truck. Lots of members here in NJ. Welcome to the forum.

88Ironduke

[zosoppp]

Well thanks for all the compliments on the truck.

It was indeed on the North Jersey CL and probably wasn't on there very long, although the PO might have listed it previously.

Anyway, it is in for a lot of work, the rockers, rear lower cab corners and much of the rain gutters are very rusty (or missing in the case of the rockers/corners). The inner roof is very thin/rusty above the visors and the passenger kick panel (between firewall and door hinges as well.

The bed floor looks to have been replaced with a steel plate and the original bed floor is disintegrating underneath it.

But it should be an adventure anyway...

[70cst]

Hey zosoppp ...

to the forums and from Ohio

on your new ride.

By the way 70 C10's rock

As far a the original motor ... for most buyers its not a big deal. But for me when I was looking for a C10 I wanted the original motor but like said ... for must buyers its not an issue.

Keep us updated on your progress.

[zosoppp]

Progress update, managed to get the formerly stuck passenger door open so the truck is now a 2-door again.

Now I need to get the last screw out of the bottom of the inner door panel and I'll be able to remove the broken door handle/button. Not sure if it's just pushed in way too far (PO broke that button trying to get the door open and apparently failed) or if I'll need a new handle (or pair so that there's something shiny on the truck.

Now that I have the pass door open, the rocker is gone as is the rear right cab corner, but the inner rocker/floor on the passenger side appears to be in much better shape than the drivers side, so it might not be quite so bad as I was assuming...

Other progress, verified that all the front lights are working correctly, got a new flasher unit (one was missing entirely) and I've removed the rear light harness from the bed and can re-solder the harness back to the plug so that the tail lights will work.

Then I need to pull the drums and check the brakes and then it should be ready for a few short trips to see what else it will need done to it.

I also should get the PS pump loosened so I can pull the belts to get them sized and replaced. The Engine block and alternator are not original so I don't know if the belts are still the stock sizes or not, so the safest bet I think is to take the belts and compare them against the new ones at the store.

[MidLifer]

Welcome to another NJ bro! That truck was a great find, don't see too many locally that aren't completely sacrificed to the salt gods! Good luck with the project.

[zosoppp]

Progress, passenger door is back together (mostly) got the new lock cylinder in, fixed up the door handle (managed to get the button back into place and bend over the tabs enough to retain the spring holder plate again.

Still have to get the rod's reconnected to the latch, but the latch is now working, amazing what graphite spray lube does for it.

One of the metal rod retainers is rusted away, so I'll have to find some replacements before all the door innards are completely done, but at this point both of the doors will open and close and lock.

Also have to get the pass window reg out it only cranks down about 1/4" before getting stuck, not sure if the sector gear is corroded (fair bet) or if something else is stuck yet. PB blaster and/or graphite may make an appearance there as well.

Also got rid of the only metric fastener's found so far, someone had replace the positive battery terminal with a metric one, but I found a HD batt terminal at NAPA and it's back to an SAE size (wouldn't want to have to have two sets of tools for this truck after all).

[Moline_Puller]

Welcome to the forum! It's always good to see another NJ member! And with a longbed to boot! Good luck with the truck!

[88Ironduke]

Just a quick heads up, there is a two wheel drive 67 in a wrecking yard called Blacies near New Egypt on Route 537. Its still got its engine and transmission, I think it was C-20, got eight lugs but all the badging is gone. The dash was in reasonably good condition, non-tach dash. The doors are there and they are good for parts. Truck is rusted pretty good. Rear end was gone. Some one swapped in a late 80's 60/40 split bench with power driver seat. Pretty grungy looking but serviceable.

88Ironduke

[jocko]

wow, a dk blue paint code with gold interior trim. That CAN'T be very common and I bet it was gorgeous back in the day. Any survival interior pics would be mucho appreciado!

[zosoppp]

I'd describe the interior as TAN at best unless that's what GM considers "gold".

The seat is a disaster, covered with a horse-blanket slip cover to contain the disaster area, and aside from the there's two grungy door arm rests, incredibly grungy wheel, cracked dash pad and two dirty tan-ish visors.

I was actually thinking the interior would all become blue (lighter than the paint) when it's all done, but cosmetic concerns are a way off.