Cast clutch fork, Does it take a special Throwout bearing?

[steveo3318]

Ok so I have had some clutch problems recently after a stroker build. I took a members advice and just purchased a centerforce dual friction clutch setup. Heres my question and its simple. In their directions it says to use a different bearing if I am using a cast fork. But I have already purchased an adjustable throwout bearing.

My question is whats the difference in a cast fork throwout bearing and a stamped fork throwout bearing? I am not concerned with the length. I want to know if there is a difference in the contact area for the fork to the bearing? Thanks

[steveo3318]

Well I couldn't stand it. I went ahead and ordered the one they say to use. I will know the difference when they get here and post it up if anyone is interested

[geezer#99]

The difference is in the length of the bearing. Cast forks are straight. Stamped forks are offset.
You say you have an adjustable tob. Got a pic?

[steveo3318]

Yes I purchased the McCleod 16505 throw out bearing. It has the spacers for adjustability. I usually wouldn't buy such a throwout but my new ram flywheel is a lot thinner than factory

[steveo3318]

Anyone know the correct distance that should be between the bearing and fingers? I get mixed reviews everywhere! 1/4. 3/8. 1/8. I dunno

[geezer#99]

I always set them up so they didn't touch or rotate the bearing. A little hard to measure.

[FlameOut]

Wow, I never even gave that any thought. I also have the cast fork in my 72 K10, and just yesterday purchased a complete clutch set, so hopefully the included throwout bearing is correct. If I have to pull this tranny/transfer case again, I think I may just push my truck over a hill

[steveo3318]

Lol. Mines been a booger to but when it's right it's mighty fine.

[special-K]

When I've used Centerforce clutches I use their throw-out bearing.

Is there any advantage to either type clutch fork for high performance? My '67 project is a mix-match> built 327/M22 using auto crossmember mount and aluminum bell housing. I have the truck cast iron clutch fork. Is that fine or should I get a car fork?

[Wrenchbender Ret]

I have been putting in clutches for 60 years & never ran into a different TO brg for cast release forks. There are different length TO brgs to match the different style pressure plates. I'd like to see photos of them. Naturally I would use the brg. they specify.

[geezer#99]

Originally Posted by Wrenchbender Ret

I have been putting in clutches for 60 years & never ran into a different TO brg for cast release forks. There are different length TO brgs to match the different style pressure plates. I'd like to see photos of them. Naturally I would use the brg. they specify.

I am likely totally wrong on the bearing length but have given it more thought.
Have you seen a tob with a v notch in it Wrench?

[steveo3318]

When I get all four bearings in I will take pictures of stock. The factory one they supply with center force clutch. The one they suggest for the cast fork. And the adjustable. I will also mic them and give specs if interested. I will obviously use the one they give my fork the best geomitry as of right now I am almost out of adjustment with the thinner ram flywheel.

[Wrenchbender Ret]

Originally Posted by geezer#99

I am likely totally wrong on the bearing length but have given it more thought.
Have you seen a tob with a v notch in it Wrench?

Ive seen them with a V bulge in the coller that the fork rides in. Some have a pin in it. Its to keep the coller from rotating .
Ive always seen the cast or forged fork on the cast iron bell housing & the stamped fork on the aluminum housings.

[special-K]

I'm thinking I'll go ahead and get a stamped (car) fork to insure compatibility. I've always seen the the forged fork on trucks (cast iron bell housings),too,and that's why I wondered. Thanks!

[steveo3318]

Well a few updates. Got my clutch in and the SPECIAL. Throwout bearing that was 60 bucks center force said to use. Well after inspecting it and comparing it to the original one that came out of the truck guess what! It was the same!!!! All tge way down to the part number. This being said I am sending it back and getting my cash back. I could get that bearing for 15 bucks from my local parts store. I guess I shouldn't be surprised. It's just a reboxed bearing. Other than that the McLeod looks like a very nice unit. It is not self alligning though. But does say its a constant running bearing. But after calling McLeod about this they say if it's a mechanical clutch to run it an 1/8 to 1/4 off fingers. Also I found my clutch rod under the dash had wollered the hole in the stamped peice from a 3/8 hole to a little over a 1/2. I had a ton of petal play just from this. I pulled it. Welded the hole up and drilled it to a correct 3/8. Took a ton of slop out. I also found my fork and pivot has a good bit of play. So I ordered a new fork. Retainer. Pivot ball. Boot. Pilot bushing. All from lmc. I also found the previous owner never had a return spring on the fork. Ordered this as well. Anyone have any pics where it connects?

So here's my conclusion. I will run the new mcloud adjustable. Dual friction center force. Ram flywheel and new fork components and see how it falls out. I can give pics and updates if anyone wants.

['68OrangeSunshine]

Yeah, I had a similiar experience with a Centerforce T/O bearing, some years ago. Got the 'Special T/O Bearing' with the kit including clutch disc and CF II pressure plate. I compared their hi-dollar T/O bearing with a $10 T/O bearing from NAPA. Same factory stampings, similiar mill marks. Got $25 back from Centerforce or the hot rod shop. Their only justification was ''Well maybe, this one was selected to last a long time..."
I put the NAPA one in, it lasted 13 years.