Engine Degrease and Cleaning

[Senorx]

I will be attempting to degrease and clean up my engine bay for the first time tomorrow morning. Any tips or tricks? Dos and Don'ts? Anything not to get wet? Anything not to get cleaner on? Anything that needs to be covered? I have a pressure washer too. I also purchased some "Super Clean" which I was told is like "Simple Green". I'm still a total newbie and learning as I go along. Is it weird that I'm really excited to get started?

I'm looking to replace the air filter with a K&N Filter and new top too. I'm tired of looking at what's on top right now.

[Old Truck Man]

Get rid of the clear plastic gas filter. those are a real fire hazard.

[Senorx]

Originally Posted by Old Truck Man

Get rid of the clear plastic gas filter. those are a real fire hazard.

Will do. I'll be running out to Napa in the morning and pick up a new filter. Is it a real simple install?

[67Steven]

Originally Posted by Senorx

Will do. I'll be running out to Napa in the morning and pick up a new filter. Is it a real simple install?

Should just be 2 hose clamps and done. I'd replace the clamps at the same time, unless they look good/new.

[67Steven]

One other item- Be careful with Castrol super clean at full strength. It will etch any unprotected aluminum surface, and strip wax off of paint. It is awesome stuff to use, though.

Just don't breathe in the mist!

[pwdcougar]

A new steel filter should go on easy. Just unscrew the hose clamps or squeeze the spring type clamps on your present filter. Use new clamps. Check the present fuel hose and make sure it isn't deteriorating. Might be worth your while to get a couple more feet of hose and replace whats there. Not sure of the size 3/8ths? 5/16ths? The inlet side of the fuel filter on my bench is 3/8ths. Best bet is to pull of the present filter and match it up at the auto parts store. Personally I don't like to have much rubber fuel line. You might want to consider replacing what you can with steel

I've used Gunk brand engine degreaser with success in the past. You can get it at Walmart.

Paul

[asolde]

Get some carb cleaner, stuff a rag in the throttle opening and wash the carb off with the carb cleaner, then put a bag over it to keep the water out. Put a bag over the distibutor cap. Spray it down with you degreaser let it soak in for a while. Protect your paint on your fenders and cowl with towels. I have used gunk and regular old oven degreaser. Pressure wash it off. Uncover everything and get it started up. Good luck

[jaros44sr]

Not wierd at all...you re a motorhead, and we get excited when we get to do mechanical stuff

When you replace the fuel filter, if it is a plastic type don t use worm drive clamps. They can squish the inlet and outlet closed. Just use spring type clamps (OEM) Use as much steel fuel line as you can make up, or go to the junkyard and get a used one

Good Luck, ^^^^^^^^^and all great advice, pay attention young grasshopper

[Old Truck Man]

As for the fuel filter. Myself I prefer a steel line between the fuel pump and carb. the sintered bronze factory installed in the carb inlet does a remarkable job. I install a steel cased filter between the gas tank & fuel pump. I started a thread about this subject. and it was discussed at length on another thread about a truck that caught on fire. I strip as much rubber and plastic away before engine cleaning. I remove the dist cap & wires. alternator andany wiring I can easily unhook. For really crusty stull that don't come off with normal solvents is use oven cleaner Be careful not to let it set on aluminum very long.

[Old Truck Man]

Originally Posted by jaros44sr

Not wierd at all...you re a motorhead, and we get excited when we get to do mechanical stuff

When you replace the fuel filter, if it is a plastic type don t use worm drive clamps. They can squish the inlet and outlet closed. Just use spring type clamps (OEM) Use as much steel fuel line as you can make up, or go to the junkyard and get a used one

Good Luck, ^^^^^^^^^and all great advice, pay attention young grasshopper

The plastic and glass filters are a fire waiting to happen.

[jaros44sr]

Originally Posted by Old Truck Man

The plastic and glass filters are a fire waiting to happen.

With all due respect Sir, i disagree with 1/2 your statement! The plastic shouldnt shatter as the glass does, it will only cause a problem if installed in correctly.....as would any device

I do however agree with you on the OEM, it does a great job, BUT, i have seen guys cross thread the fine threads on the carb body. So infact, the job becomes much easier, with less potential big problems, with a external filter of the proper design

As with any install on these ol trucks, its up to the installer to do quality work

[Senorx]

So was the original fuel filter suppose to be installed between the fuel pump and fuel tank? Was it originally installed maybe along the frame rails on these K5s?

[Senorx]

Found this under a rattle can paint job on my driver's wheel well? Super Clean strips rattle can paint come to find out. LOL. Does this mean it's an original wheel well. The sticker looks pretty well preserved. Wondering if it's a reproduction?

Finding surface rust covered by rattle can. Should I sand it off and re-paint?

[Old Truck Man]

Originally Posted by jaros44sr

With all due respect Sir, i disagree with 1/2 your statement! The plastic shouldnt shatter as the glass does, it will only cause a problem if installed in correctly.....as would any device

I do however agree with you on the OEM, it does a great job, BUT, i have seen guys cross thread the fine threads on the carb body. So infact, the job becomes much easier, with less potential big problems, with a external filter of the proper design

As with any install on these ol trucks, its up to the installer to do quality work

I started a thread about filters installed between the pump and tank versus the pump & carb. Go there and we can debate the issue. That plastic when installed between the pump & carb gets old and eventually the pump pressure will cause it to crack spraying fuel under the hood. If a carb inlet becomes cross threaded all is not lost. there is a oversize self tapping replacement inlet fitting available. Ive never cross threaded one.

[leddzepp]

POR Marine clean is the best degreaser I have ever used. I suspect it is bilge cleaner. Makes simple green look like water.

[Old Truck Man]

Originally Posted by Senorx

So was the original fuel filter suppose to be installed between the fuel pump and fuel tank? Was it originally installed maybe along the frame rails on these K5s?

There where some that did have a canister filter mounted along the frame rail. Most have a filter sock on the inlet inside the tank. and the sintered bronze or paper element inside the carb inlet. Putting rubber hose and a filter between the fuel pump & carb is a fire hazard. The hose becomes old and the plastic and glass see through filters can burst. Ive never seen a GM factory installed filter attached with rubber hose installed between the fuel pump & carb. a solid steel line is what came from the factory on trucks. I cut the rubber line on the inlet side of the fuel pump and install a wix steel cased filter at that location. I also use the factory sintered bronze filter in the carb inlet.

[jaros44sr]

Originally Posted by Old Truck Man

I started a thread about filters installed between the pump and tank versus the pump & carb. Go there and we can debate the issue. That plastic when installed between the pump & carb gets old and eventually the pump pressure will cause it to crack spraying fuel under the hood. If a carb inlet becomes cross threaded all is not lost. there is a oversize self tapping replacement inlet fitting available. Ive never cross threaded one.

No need, i ve spent enought time on this topic