help me convert my 53 to a bagged setup

[jd.marshall]

Im wanting to go with an airbag suspension setup. The pictures are showing the chassis as I got it from previous owner (everything else is in bags or parts but the chassis was looking almost complete). Its actually a pretty good home grown frame off resto and upgrade as it sits now.

I dont know whose 4 link or MII IFS setup this is but I would like to run an airbag system on this project going forward.

Can you all make any suggestions or point me in the direction of how I can set up the rear end for bags with the pictured set up?

I'm thinking about installing the step notch and fabricating a new shock bar that could also support the airbag plates. Any recomendations on this? I knot the bump stoips and brake lines will need a re work from the picture.

Also loking for info on where to get the airbag kit for installing in a MII IFS and how to set up the shocks (or where to mount them). What to do with the sway bar set up?

Looking for all good suggestions on what type of bags to use, internal stops, with or without intergral shock systems and what air comp control system to go with.

This will be a driver so crazy bag control and high volume actuation are not necessary.

Appreciate the pointers or suggestions.

[CHRIS67GMC]

RideTech shock waves front and back problem solved.
Give me a call if you need them.

[jd.marshall]

Originally Posted by CHRIS67GMC

RideTech shock waves front and back problem solved.
Give me a call if you need them.

Is the shockwave going to give me the right kind of travel over a conventional bag set up?

[CHRIS67GMC]

Yes you can run a 6 inch travel on the rear.

[Pro Performance]

I agree with the shockwaves as well, for the easiest conversion to bags on this chassis. I would take some measurements front and rear, to determine what the aired out height and ride height will be with the Shockwaves you go with. It may not be necessary to do the step notch in the rear, and should be able to achieve an even ride height and aired out height with the current frame rail setup in the rear.

In regards to your question about air management. There are many ways to go, from manual paddle valves to electric valves with a auto leveling system.

The manual paddle valves is a great way to go, and offers a more inexpensive solution, with simple controls. These paddle valves use 1/4" line, so the speed os lifting and lowering is a little slower compared to a 3/8" system. If you think you might go to an auto-leveling system in the future, like AccuAir, I would take a look at electric valves. We offer our Pro2 which uses the VU4 electric valve system, dual compressors and DOT fittings / line. This system can be upgraded to the e-level very easily. We also offer this kit with the e-level feature.

You can always give me a call, PM or email, and would be glad to over the different options with you and determine which one might work best for what you are wanting to do.

- Travis
travis@azproperformance.com

1/4" Manual Air Management
http://www.azproperformance.com/1-4-...ement-Kit.html

Pro2 Air Management
http://www.azproperformance.com/Pro2...ement-Kit.html

Pro2 Air Management w/ E-Level
http://www.azproperformance.com/Pro2...AM-Elevel.html

[jd.marshall]

Are there any pros to going with convoluted bag and independent shock set up on the MII over the shockwaves? I'm not afraid of a little fab work to go with traditional bags and shocks if it will be a better set up in the long run.

Also initial cost and long term cost seem to have the shockwaves at a higher buy in level, ie shock and bag are integral vs replacing an 80 buck bag.

Sorry for the continued questions but I just want to cover all the bases.

So far, two votes for the shockwave set up.

[NEWFISHER]

Looking at your front pic ( and there are several people fabbing these front ends) it looks like a fulltiltstreetrods.com set up from Clay. You should be able to purchase his cup inserts, convoluted bags and lower bag arms complete with shock kit for $450.

There are also several companies selling axle/frame bag plates if the $hockwave$ scare you.

Depending on the cycle of articulation you are wanting with the rear, you may want to pull a plumb line where your fender will sit with wheel mounted and move the suspension without the coilovers. With the parallel 4 link ( a great set up for MOST applications) you may be pulling a tire into a fender during the cycle with the pan hard bar, especially if you run a deep notch. A triangulated system will not move the rear side to side, but will change pinion and is hell on ujoints when laid out throwing sparks on the freeway from what I have been told.