Removing Fenders for motor swap? - The 1947 - Present Chevrolet & GMC Truck Message Board Network

'70 C/10 SS500 · 08-08-2003, 03:37 PM

I'm very close to starting the motor swap from I6 292 to 500ci Caddy motor. I currently have the grill, bumper, head light assemblies, battery tray, and inner fenderwells removed. My question is: Is pulling the fenders and radiator support off to have an easily accessable frame to fab up the motor mounts worth the fitment issues with re-installing the fenders? I've PULLED fenders before, but never actually put one BACK ON! Is it all that hard. Should I remove 'em, drop the motor, and worry about the fitment later? Give me some good advice so I can act this weekend!

Hopefully soon it'll be nothin' but

Thanks!

dubie · 08-08-2003, 03:40 PM

as long as you put the shims back in their proper place, you should have minimal problems
Good luck

**Yukon Jack** · 08-08-2003, 03:43 PM

Too bad you didn't just pull the entire front clip off in one piece. Did that on mine and that was so easy and talk about good accessibility!

'70 C/10 SS500 · 08-08-2003, 03:49 PM

One more quick question, (I'm at work, going off memory): How do you get to the bolts at the cab side of the fenders? It seemed like a pretty tight fit to get at them. Can some one give me a quick proceedure to follow to remove the fenders? Do I need to take the doors off?

Thanks again. P.S. The QUICK replys to questions here is absolutely great!! LOVE this board!

**CPNE** · 08-08-2003, 03:52 PM

remove the cowl piece over the wiper linkage. Bolts are accessible directly once done. No need to remove doors. Also, There is one lower bolt behind fender that attaches it to the lower door pillar area.

smallbigblock · 08-08-2003, 04:21 PM

It's easier to get to everything with the fenders removed. If you are going to have to make some things fit I would pull the fenders before I got started.

Huck · 08-08-2003, 08:50 PM

Colnsider pulling the front clip---3 fender bolts each, 2 rad support bolts, and pull the front bumper while you're at it. You will have total access while keeping your fender to grill to rad support alignments. It will save you oodles of time and headaches.

Low68 · 08-08-2003, 09:05 PM

Do what yukon Jack suggested and pull the front fenders, grill, and radiator support all still bolted to gether. It would make aligning them again a snap. Make sure you write down how many shims where on what side.
Low68

*Phillip Johnson* · 08-08-2003, 09:13 PM

DONT FORGET TO UNPLUG ALL WIRES BEFORE YOU PULL THE FRONT CLIP!!!!!!!!!!

'70 C/10 SS500 · 08-08-2003, 09:38 PM

Thanks for the info. everyone! Tomorrow bright and early I'm going to town on my truck. Off with the fenders and out with the 292. If everything goes smoothly, maybe I'll be posting one very excited message of Caddy powered mayhem by next week!

Longhorn Man · 08-08-2003, 10:48 PM

I strongly suggest removing the whole clip. I wouldn't even try to do it any other way.

That is a whole lot of motor to by trying to slip into there.

On a side note, have you talked to your local smog station about this? I know that right now you are smog exempt, but we all know there is talk about California going back to there old smog standards. IF and when that happens, your swap will have to be smog compliant, and that will mean that all the smog controll items from your caddy donor will have to be installed on your truck, including the smog pump and the single catilitic converter. The vapor canister, the single snorcal air filter, the stupid tobe from the exhaust manifold up to the air cleaner...ect.

Look into it before it bites you in the ass.

08-08-2003, 03:37 PM	#1
'70 C/10 SS500 Registered User Join Date: Jun 2003 Location: Chandler, AZ Posts: 130	Removing Fenders for motor swap? I'm very close to starting the motor swap from I6 292 to 500ci Caddy motor. I currently have the grill, bumper, head light assemblies, battery tray, and inner fenderwells removed. My question is: Is pulling the fenders and radiator support off to have an easily accessable frame to fab up the motor mounts worth the fitment issues with re-installing the fenders? I've PULLED fenders before, but never actually put one BACK ON! Is it all that hard. Should I remove 'em, drop the motor, and worry about the fitment later? Give me some good advice so I can act this weekend! Hopefully soon it'll be nothin' but Thanks!

08-08-2003, 03:40 PM	#2
dubie Registered User Join Date: May 2000 Location: Flin Flon, Manitoba, Canada Posts: 8,855	as long as you put the shims back in their proper place, you should have minimal problems Good luck __________________ My name's Tim and I'm a truckaholic My 56 Chevy shop truck build http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/s...d.php?t=562795

08-08-2003, 03:43 PM	#3
Yukon Jack Post Whore Join Date: Feb 2000 Location: Rose Hill, KS, USA Posts: 12,683	Too bad you didn't just pull the entire front clip off in one piece. Did that on mine and that was so easy and talk about good accessibility! __________________ 1970 Blazer with a 400 sbc and 4" lift 1980 Pontiac Trans Am, 455 Oldsmobile 2012 Kawasaki Concours 14

08-08-2003, 03:49 PM	#4
'70 C/10 SS500 Registered User Join Date: Jun 2003 Location: Chandler, AZ Posts: 130	removal? One more quick question, (I'm at work, going off memory): How do you get to the bolts at the cab side of the fenders? It seemed like a pretty tight fit to get at them. Can some one give me a quick proceedure to follow to remove the fenders? Do I need to take the doors off? Thanks again. P.S. The QUICK replys to questions here is absolutely great!! LOVE this board!

08-08-2003, 03:52 PM	#5
CPNE Resident Curmudgeon Join Date: Dec 1999 Location: NH Posts: 6,664	remove the cowl piece over the wiper linkage. Bolts are accessible directly once done. No need to remove doors. Also, There is one lower bolt behind fender that attaches it to the lower door pillar area. __________________ Currently on or near the homestead: 67 Chevy SWB 2WD stepside 350/3 on tree (Pat's) 67 GMC SWB 2WD Fleet 402/auto (Brian's under construction) 67 Chevy 3/4 ton 2WD 402/auto (Business Hauler) 67 Chevy 1 ton dually 2WD 396/4 speed (Former business hauler, Needs TLC) 68 Chevy 1/2 ton Suburban 2WD 250 six/3 on tree (Brian's Needs TLC) 70 Chevy 3/4 ton 4WD 350/4 speed (Pat's - Disguised as a 68 GMC) 71 Chevy SWB stepside (Crushed by tree - parts donor) 72 Chevy 3/4 ton 4WD (Parts donor) 72 Chevy 3/4 ton 4WD Suburban (Parts Donor) 72 GMC 3/4 ton 4WD 292 six/4 speed (Mine - Disguised as a 67 GMC) 81 GMC 4WD Dually Dump Body 350/4 speed (Business Hauler) 82 Camaro Z/28 355/Super T-10 (Pat's toy) 93 Caprice 9C1 (Brian's Cop Car) 02 Toyota Camry (Reliable but a souless steel and plastic hulk) 2011 2SS RS Camaro M6 Factory Hurst Shifter Maybe I need to sell some of this crap Yet another Bozo with a sawz-all

08-08-2003, 04:21 PM	#6
smallbigblock Registered User Join Date: Jan 2001 Location: Malden, Missouri, USA Posts: 109	It's easier to get to everything with the fenders removed. If you are going to have to make some things fit I would pull the fenders before I got started. __________________ 72 Cheyenne Super LWB 72 C-10 Short Stepside 71 Nova

08-08-2003, 08:50 PM	#7
Huck Senior Member Join Date: Jun 2001 Location: Shelbyville, KY Posts: 3,269	Colnsider pulling the front clip---3 fender bolts each, 2 rad support bolts, and pull the front bumper while you're at it. You will have total access while keeping your fender to grill to rad support alignments. It will save you oodles of time and headaches.

08-08-2003, 09:05 PM	#8
Low68 Registered User Join Date: May 2001 Location: Arizona Posts: 758	Do what yukon Jack suggested and pull the front fenders, grill, and radiator support all still bolted to gether. It would make aligning them again a snap. Make sure you write down how many shims where on what side. Low68 __________________ Build Thread

08-08-2003, 09:13 PM	#9
Phillip Johnson Account Suspended Join Date: Apr 2000 Location: Grants Pass, Oregon Posts: 1,580	DONT FORGET TO UNPLUG ALL WIRES BEFORE YOU PULL THE FRONT CLIP!!!!!!!!!!

08-08-2003, 09:38 PM	#10
'70 C/10 SS500 Registered User Join Date: Jun 2003 Location: Chandler, AZ Posts: 130	Thanks for the replys! Thanks for the info. everyone! Tomorrow bright and early I'm going to town on my truck. Off with the fenders and out with the 292. If everything goes smoothly, maybe I'll be posting one very excited message of Caddy powered mayhem by next week!

08-08-2003, 10:48 PM	#11
Longhorn Man its all about the +6 inches Join Date: Jan 2001 Location: Hilliard Ohio Posts: 2,693	I strongly suggest removing the whole clip. I wouldn't even try to do it any other way. That is a whole lot of motor to by trying to slip into there. On a side note, have you talked to your local smog station about this? I know that right now you are smog exempt, but we all know there is talk about California going back to there old smog standards. IF and when that happens, your swap will have to be smog compliant, and that will mean that all the smog controll items from your caddy donor will have to be installed on your truck, including the smog pump and the single catilitic converter. The vapor canister, the single snorcal air filter, the stupid tobe from the exhaust manifold up to the air cleaner...ect. Look into it before it bites you in the ass.

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