Turn Signal Switch - The 1947 - Present Chevrolet & GMC Truck Message Board Network

backinblack · 08-08-2003, 11:28 PM

A couple weeks ago, I changed the turn signal cam, and now discovered that the reason my horn doesn't work is that somehow I am missing some parts........It seems there is some kind of copper? contact connected to a spring that resides in the turn signal switch, and then makes contact with something that turns around with the wheel........I seem to be missing the part that turns with the wheel, and someone somehow has taken out the copper plug connected to the spring inside the turn signal SWITCH.....My question, How hard is it to remove the turn signal switch, ( I have removed the three phillips screws, and it doesn't seem to want to come out), are the wires connected to it removable, and where can I buy (if possible) these parts? Thanks for all the help.............

krue · 08-08-2003, 11:37 PM

If I remember correctly the wires come loose and the assembly will come out with a little help. But I could be wrong!

jef5150 · 08-08-2003, 11:38 PM

look at the parts list ,,,maybe you can see what your missing in parts,,,,jeff

70c10 · 08-08-2003, 11:43 PM

Heres my old one. You have to remove the clip for the flashers and wiggle it out past the red button.

backinblack · 08-09-2003, 12:18 AM

So, the wires DO come loose? Excellent replies so far.....Thanks!

70c10 · 08-09-2003, 09:06 AM

I cut the wires to remove mine. The plug will not fit thru the opening in the cup. My new one has a different plug and I grinded the end off that was not needed. I got mine at the Chevy dealer and it works up to 1987 models. I now have a modern looking flasher button but I didn't care about the look.

jef5150 · 08-09-2003, 11:35 AM

remove the cover w/tabs thats under the column[be gentle w/tabs you dont want to snap them off}

jef5150 · 08-09-2003, 12:14 PM

your "probably" gonna have to dis- assemble connector of new harness,(under dash end),to get wire thru column,then re-assemble it after wires are in,,if your replacing "ENTIRE HARNESS",cut half moon connector of "OLD" connector,leaving some of the wire attached,,but save the connector,youll need it as reference when you install the new harness,,

jef5150 · 08-09-2003, 12:19 PM

,

70c10 · 08-09-2003, 04:23 PM

Those are great close up shots!

jef5150 · 08-09-2003, 05:13 PM

thanks----the camera is pretty old, butt it still works,i only have b&w film....lol

palallin · 08-09-2003, 11:22 PM

once you've gotten that far into the column, pulling the collar off isn't too hard, and then you don't have to cut any wires or disassemble the connector.

08-08-2003, 11:28 PM	#1
backinblack Registered User Join Date: Aug 2002 Location: Utah Posts: 142	Turn Signal Switch A couple weeks ago, I changed the turn signal cam, and now discovered that the reason my horn doesn't work is that somehow I am missing some parts........It seems there is some kind of copper? contact connected to a spring that resides in the turn signal switch, and then makes contact with something that turns around with the wheel........I seem to be missing the part that turns with the wheel, and someone somehow has taken out the copper plug connected to the spring inside the turn signal SWITCH.....My question, How hard is it to remove the turn signal switch, ( I have removed the three phillips screws, and it doesn't seem to want to come out), are the wires connected to it removable, and where can I buy (if possible) these parts? Thanks for all the help............. __________________ 69 chevy SWB 70 GTO 65 GTO hardtop 65 GTO ragtop 77 Trans Am Hmmm. Too many pontiacs, not enough chevy trucks yet.

08-08-2003, 11:37 PM	#2
krue Designated A-hole! Join Date: Mar 2003 Location: South Mississippi Posts: 36,448	If I remember correctly the wires come loose and the assembly will come out with a little help. But I could be wrong! __________________ "If it ain't broke, fix it 'til it is!" Being stupid ain't illegal. We're Still Debt Free Except for the House!!! www.daveramsey.com 70 GMC SWB Stepside project "Green Booger" soon to be 6.0l/4l80e 93 S-10 "Poppaw's Truck"

08-08-2003, 11:38 PM	#3
jef5150 Inline 69 Join Date: Apr 2003 Location: valleysprings,california Posts: 1,018	heres a diagrahm look at the parts list ,,,maybe you can see what your missing in parts,,,,jeff Attached Images

08-08-2003, 11:43 PM	#4
70c10 67-72 Addict! Join Date: Feb 2002 Location: The TAX State! Posts: 7,856	Heres my old one. You have to remove the clip for the flashers and wiggle it out past the red button. Attached Images __________________ Jim 1970 C/10 Fleetside w/Ghost Flames Lowered 4.5" front and 4" rear (Raked) 355/350 Turbo w/shift kit 10" Redneck Performance Verter w/2500 stall Hooker Super Comps part#2808-1 Performer RPM Air-Gap 12 Bolt w/3:73 gears- Eaton Posi Comp Cams XE262 with 1.6 Crane Energizers, Road Demon 625 and Brodix IK 180 heads

08-09-2003, 12:18 AM	#5
backinblack Registered User Join Date: Aug 2002 Location: Utah Posts: 142	So, the wires DO come loose? Excellent replies so far.....Thanks! __________________ 69 chevy SWB 70 GTO 65 GTO hardtop 65 GTO ragtop 77 Trans Am Hmmm. Too many pontiacs, not enough chevy trucks yet.

08-09-2003, 09:06 AM	#6
70c10 67-72 Addict! Join Date: Feb 2002 Location: The TAX State! Posts: 7,856	I cut the wires to remove mine. The plug will not fit thru the opening in the cup. My new one has a different plug and I grinded the end off that was not needed. I got mine at the Chevy dealer and it works up to 1987 models. I now have a modern looking flasher button but I didn't care about the look. __________________ Jim 1970 C/10 Fleetside w/Ghost Flames Lowered 4.5" front and 4" rear (Raked) 355/350 Turbo w/shift kit 10" Redneck Performance Verter w/2500 stall Hooker Super Comps part#2808-1 Performer RPM Air-Gap 12 Bolt w/3:73 gears- Eaton Posi Comp Cams XE262 with 1.6 Crane Energizers, Road Demon 625 and Brodix IK 180 heads

08-09-2003, 11:35 AM	#7
jef5150 Inline 69 Join Date: Apr 2003 Location: valleysprings,california Posts: 1,018	cover remove the cover w/tabs thats under the column[be gentle w/tabs you dont want to snap them off} Attached Images

08-09-2003, 12:14 PM	#8
jef5150 Inline 69 Join Date: Apr 2003 Location: valleysprings,california Posts: 1,018	getting wires thru column,,,,,, your "probably" gonna have to dis- assemble connector of new harness,(under dash end),to get wire thru column,then re-assemble it after wires are in,,if your replacing "ENTIRE HARNESS",cut half moon connector of "OLD" connector,leaving some of the wire attached,,but save the connector,youll need it as reference when you install the new harness,, Attached Images Last edited by jef5150; 08-09-2003 at 12:42 PM.

08-09-2003, 12:19 PM	#9
jef5150 Inline 69 Join Date: Apr 2003 Location: valleysprings,california Posts: 1,018	1 more pic...... , Attached Images

08-09-2003, 04:23 PM	#10
70c10 67-72 Addict! Join Date: Feb 2002 Location: The TAX State! Posts: 7,856	Those are great close up shots! __________________ Jim 1970 C/10 Fleetside w/Ghost Flames Lowered 4.5" front and 4" rear (Raked) 355/350 Turbo w/shift kit 10" Redneck Performance Verter w/2500 stall Hooker Super Comps part#2808-1 Performer RPM Air-Gap 12 Bolt w/3:73 gears- Eaton Posi Comp Cams XE262 with 1.6 Crane Energizers, Road Demon 625 and Brodix IK 180 heads

08-09-2003, 05:13 PM	#11
jef5150 Inline 69 Join Date: Apr 2003 Location: valleysprings,california Posts: 1,018	thanks----the camera is pretty old, butt it still works,i only have b&w film....lol

08-09-2003, 11:22 PM	#12
palallin Registered User Join Date: Jul 2002 Location: St. James, MO Posts: 1,238	once you've gotten that far into the column, pulling the collar off isn't too hard, and then you don't have to cut any wires or disassemble the connector. __________________ '69 Longstep K-10: 327/SM465/T-221/Closed Knuckle Dana44/12-bolt.

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