Seriously considering lifting it up...Advice, please

[cfan10]

Has anyone done a body lift on a square 1/2 ton swb?
Thing is I am on a budget for this mod, (paying a shop to do it and buying the lift kit. But I am wondering if the ride/safety comprised with 2", 2.5" or 3" lift. More than likely it will be a 2" not really looking for anything too extreme, and I like the option of going back to oem if I choose, doubt I will. What size tires will i have to swap to accommodate the lift?
As always advice/experience is welcomed and sincerely appreciated. Many thanks photos would also be nice.

84 swb 305v8
15x10/295-50-15 tires

[dfrank]

Originally Posted by cfan10

Has anyone done a body lift on a square 1/2 ton swb?
Thing is I am on a budget for this mod, (paying a shop to do it and buying the lift kit. But I am wondering if the ride/safety comprised with 2", 2.5" or 3" lift. More than likely it will be a 2" not really looking for anything too extreme, and I like the option of going back to oem if I choose, doubt I will. What size tires will i have to swap to accommodate the lift?
As always advice/experience is welcomed and sincerely appreciated. Many thanks photos would also be nice.

84 swb 305v8
15x10/295-50-15 tires

I didn't really notice any difference in ride with mine with a 3 inch body lift. I could do it again I would of just replaced the 3 inch supesion lift with a 6 inch suspension lift and pick up the three inches that way instead of with the body lift. Bu I didn't have much money back then.

[andrewmp6]

That's a small lift it should drive and ride about the same as it does now.

[IIGW]

Originally Posted by dfrank

I didn't really notice any difference in ride with mine with a 3 inch body lift. .

there would be no differnece at all with a body lift.


a 2" lift is so small, youll regret it after you do it. if you want a lift, do at least a 4" so you feel like you actually spent your money on something.

do your research, google, and read about who likes what kits. some ride stiffer than others.

[imjeff]

X2 on the 4". You can run 33's or 35's. Stock drive lines will be fine and they are very clean installs. My last square I ran a 4" with 35/12.50's. I will look for a pic if you like.

[cfan10]

Thanks everyone! ^a pic would be great.

[dfrank]

Here you go. 3in suspension and 3in body lift. I still need to raise the front bumper up 3in.

[79Betty]

Dfrank, how will you raise the bumper 3"? The bottom of mine hits the frame somethin fierce. Thinking of cutting the bumper out around the rails... But worried it will look goofy as hell.

[dfrank]

Originally Posted by 79Betty

Dfrank, how will you raise the bumper 3"? The bottom of mine hits the frame somethin fierce. Thinking of cutting the bumper out around the rails... But worried it will look goofy as hell.

Our family owns a steel fab shop so it shouldn't be too hard to make new brackets. Just need the time to do it.

[cfan10]

I was told that lifts cause rollovers more so than not...Is this true?

[cfan10]

Thanks^

[imjeff]

Originally Posted by cfan10

I was told that lifts cause rollovers more so than not...Is this true?

Nope. High speeds and sharp turns cause rollovers. A function of the nut behind the wheel.

Jeff

[andrewmp6]

Really any car or truck can roll over if you try hard enough.

[dfrank]

Originally Posted by andrewmp6

Really any car or truck can roll over if you try hard enough.

Apparently not mini coopers. Lol I had I guy that worked for us who wrecked his and he said they are impossible to roll and that it hasn't ever happened in the history of mini coopers. Lol

[andrewmp6]

If you hit a ditch right it will probably roll over lol.

[dfrank]

Originally Posted by andrewmp6

If you hit a ditch right it will probably roll over lol.

Or go off a cliff unless they are like cats and always land on their feet. Lol

[83 Scottsdale]

I have 33 inch tires on my truck and it's stock height. They don't rub either. With a 3 inch lift you could fit 35s in there. I personally think that body lifts look terrible. It leaves a gap between the frame and the body. If you're gonna lift it, I would get like a rough country 4 inch leaf spring lift with 35 inch tires. It looks nice, and its not too extreme.

[Your41Plague12]

Is this a C10 or K10 you're talking about? The body lift procedure would be nearly identical, except on the C10 you won't have transfer case linkage to extend. You'll have to extend the intermediate shaft between the column and the steering box, as well as adjust your shift linkage and extend one piece. You may or may not have to extend your fuel filler tube as well. Other than that, it's pretty simple (unless your truck is rusty, and then it can be a pain to remove the body mount bolts). Hopefully none of your bolts break off inside the cab like mine did. Then you have to cut holes in your floor, remove the bolts/square nuts from the channel under your cab, and put it all back together. It can be a real nightmare if you have a northern truck that has lived a hard life in the salt. If you have any more questions, feel free to ask.

[dfrank]

Originally Posted by Your41Plague12

Is this a C10 or K10 you're talking about? The body lift procedure would be nearly identical, except on the C10 you won't have transfer case linkage to extend. You'll have to extend the intermediate shaft between the column and the steering box, as well as adjust your shift linkage and extend one piece. You may or may not have to extend your fuel filler tube as well. Other than that, it's pretty simple (unless your truck is rusty, and then it can be a pain to remove the body mount bolts). Hopefully none of your bolts break off inside the cab like mine did. Then you have to cut holes in your floor, remove the bolts/square nuts from the channel under your cab, and put it all back together. It can be a real nightmare if you have a northern truck that has lived a hard life in the salt. If you have any more questions, feel free to ask.

I didn't have to lengthen the transfer case linkage on my 86 k10. As for loose nuts inside the cab I was able to get a mig welder in there and re-tac the nut down. Now if the bolt broke you are pretty buch screwd. Thats what a torch is for before you crank on a bolt that won't move. Just don't get the torch next to fuel tank or fuel lines.

[Your41Plague12]

Originally Posted by dfrank

I didn't have to lengthen the transfer case linkage on my 86 k10. As for loose nuts inside the cab I was able to get a mig welder in there and re-tac the nut down. Now if the bolt broke you are pretty buch screwd. Thats what a torch is for before you crank on a bolt that won't move. Just don't get the torch next to fuel tank or fuel lines.

Mine were already broken off inside the new cab I bought. I had no choice but to cut the floor and attack it from the top. But there was no chance of me getting a torch near the rear driver's side cab bolt; it was dangerously close to the gas tank. For that one, I just used a hole saw on the raised flat portion of the floor (right against the back wall of the cab) and it exposed the nut/bolt in the crossmember underneath. When I was done, I just welded it back up. The floor pan was a little more difficult and took some trial and error. There's really no good way to measure it.

As for the transfer case linkage issue, how high of a body lift did you have? Mine needed lengthened, for sure. I had a 3" on mine.