Need motor mount advice please

['65 chevy lover]

I'm trying to get everything together to finally install my motor but, going to have to change motor mounts on the cross member. The motor has three bolt holes on each side and, I can get those mounts easily. It's the ones on the cross member that I'll have to change. I have these and need the type that has a tube welded across the top. I did a search but really didn't find what I need to know. I wouldn't mind buying some new ones but, would use old ones of of another truck of the correct year model. I would also like to keep the motor in the same place if possible unless there is a reason I should move it forward in needed. Are there mounts available that will work with the stock cross member pieces? Would greatly appreciate some advice.
Edit: I saw some in P.O.L. like this that appear like they will work or, are there better setups?
http://www.performanceonline.com/196...or-Mount-Pair/

What do ya'll think?
Thanks!

[GREEN64]

We have been using these mounts. They may not be as nice looking as the 89 dollar set. But you can get them for 12 or 14 dollars a piece at OReillys. We have a few sets in other trucks. They seem to be fine so far.

[IMG][/IMG]

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['65 chevy lover]

Those would most likely work. Kinda funny, I was at my local O'Reillys and, they couldn't find anything like that. I even showed them a pic from CCP that had the more expensive mounts. The only reason I can think of that the others might be better and hold up better is that, I have a fairly high HP ( 450 ) motor. Do you by chance have a part #?

Thanks!

Edit: Never mind, just saw the name and number on the box...LOL

[Captainfab]

The original 2282 engine mounts really aren't very strong of a engine mount and can come apart when used with a high HP engine. I prefer to use the better designed '73+ engine mounts. You will need the frame brackets from a '73-'86 C20/30 or a '87-'91 R2500/3500. However these will move your engine slightly from it's original location.

[jtrichard]

Originally Posted by Captainfab

The original 2282 engine mounts really aren't very strong of a engine mount and can come apart when used with a high HP engine. I prefer to use the better designed '73+ engine mounts. You will need the frame brackets from a '73-'86 C20/30 or a '87-'91 R2500/3500. However these will move your engine slightly from it's original location.

Captain when you say slightly how much we talking? thanks

[jtrichard]

Originally Posted by Captainfab

The original 2282 engine mounts really aren't very strong of a engine mount and can come apart when used with a high HP engine. I prefer to use the better designed '73+ engine mounts. You will need the frame brackets from a '73-'86 C20/30 or a '87-'91 R2500/3500. However these will move your engine slightly from it's original location.

Captain when you say slightly how much we talking? thanks ....... with the high HP if you use the OEM style mounts for that year and want to be safer put a chain on the left side of the engine to the frame

['65 chevy lover]

Originally Posted by Captainfab

The original 2282 engine mounts really aren't very strong of a engine mount and can come apart when used with a high HP engine. I prefer to use the better designed '73+ engine mounts. You will need the frame brackets from a '73-'86 C20/30 or a '87-'91 R2500/3500. However these will move your engine slightly from it's original location.

I'm guessing it would move forward , correct? How much would it move the motor forward? That wouldn't be a bad thing thoungh...it would give a little more room for the distributer. Do those brackets basically bolt right in or , do you have to make mods to cross member or brackets for them to work? That wouldn't be hard, I'm a pretty good fabricator but, if I could avoid having to modify them that would be even better. Do you by any chance have a set of those you could sell? Or, will after market brackets from someone like CCP or brothers work if they are from the year trucks you listed? Pretty sure they would be more expensive but, at this point, I don't care that much...just trying to get this thing going. Thanks for your help Captain, It's really appreciated!

['65 chevy lover]

Deleted message

['65 chevy lover]

Can't find any frame brackets from a salvage yard so, was looking at these.

http://www.classicperform.com/Store/...ck/6372MPS.htm

Will they work? Appoligies for being a dumb azz!

Thanks for any help

[Captainfab]

A lot of guys use those but they won't work with the engine mounts you have. You will have to buy the correct car style engine mounts for those brackets.

['65 chevy lover]

Will they work with these mounts and, move the motor forward?

[url]

http://www.summitracing.com/parts/ptp-7-504-bl/overview/

or these
http://www.brotherstrucks.com/prodinfo.asp?number=SBMM72UR

[Captainfab]

The links don't work. I don't know about the position as I have not used them.

Originally Posted by '65 chevy lover

Will they work with these mounts and, move the motor forward?

[url]

http://www.summitracing.com/parts/ptp-7-504-bl/overview/

or these
http://www.brotherstrucks.com/prodinfo.asp?number=SBMM72UR

[Kenfuzed]

Here are the links he was trying to use...

http://www.summitracing.com/parts/pt...4-bl/overview/

http://www.brotherstrucks.com/prodin...umber=SBMM72UR

Both use the side bolt style mount. To use the center bolt style with our original perches I think you'll need these center bolt versions:
http://www.brotherstrucks.com/prodin...number=BBMM2UR

or
http://www.summitracing.com/parts/pt...del/c10-pickup

The are kind of pricey but will handle the extra HP.

['65 chevy lover]

I was wanting to use the side bolt style because I was under the impression they would move the motor forward a little bit. I know I'd have to change the frame perches but, was willing to do that. I had thought about getting the aftermarket perches from CCP like this below( hope the link works. Will these with the side bolt mounts move the motor forward? I know I keep asking dumb questions but, just want to be sure I'm getting the right parts. I really appreciate the patience and help/info everyone is giving me. Thanks again

http://www.classicperform.com/Store/...ck/6372MPS.htm

[Kenfuzed]

What motor mount configuration did you go with?

I just picked up the tubular perches and mounts from POL. Very well made but I found out that for 63-66 trucks you must cut back the edge of the frame rail for the holes to line up. I was told that these perches were designed for late '67-72 models but work with our earlier trucks if you make this slight modification to the frame.



I'll take pics tomorrow when I attempt to install mine and take the sawzall or grinder to the frame.

['65 chevy lover]

Looks good. Are they supposed to move the motor forward or, remain in same location? Curious to see as well, how much the frame rails have to be trimmed.

[1963c-10]

Originally Posted by '65 chevy lover

Looks good. Are they supposed to move the motor forward or, remain in same location? Curious to see as well, how much the frame rails have to be trimmed.

Thy move the engine slightly forward. I trimmed around 3/8" off the frame.

['65 chevy lover]

And they use the same holes as stock?

[Kenfuzed]

If moving the engine forward they use the existing holes. On the cross member there is a forward hole closer to the frame that you use. If staying in the rear position you'll need to drill a new hole in the cross member.

Below are pictures of the frame mounting points before and after I trimmed it back earlier today. You can see the old location in the first picture.

These perches were originally designed for 67+ models so you have to cut back the edge of the frame for the top holes to align. I trimmed it back ~5/8" but the best way to know is to mark where the perch holes would be when pushing the perch against the frame, then measure the distance between the center of the hole and the mark. This is how far you need to cut into the frame.

With a reciprocating saw and 14 TPI blade the frame cut like butter. I cut in at an angle to make it easy.

[Old Truck Man]

Changing the frame perches by themselves are not going to move the engine forward. If you move those forward you then need to move the rear mount forward. then the driveshaft needs to be longer. then the shift linkage will need to be changed . if its a stick the Zbar mounting will change. Use stock engine to frame mounts. and use a chain as a torque strap. The frame perches for the V8 and 250 six are the same. only the passenger side of a 292 six has a different frame perch. millions of these trucks ran millions of miles using stock parts in the factory position .

[Kenfuzed]

Originally Posted by Old Truck Man

Changing the frame perches by themselves are not going to move the engine forward. If you move those forward you then need to move the rear mount forward. then the driveshaft needs to be longer. then the shift linkage will need to be changed . if its a stick the Zbar mounting will change. Use stock engine to frame mounts. and use a chain as a torque strap. The frame perches for the V8 and 250 six are the same. only the passenger side of a 292 six has a different frame perch. millions of these trucks ran millions of miles using stock parts in the factory position .

Correct, however the key phrase here is "stock parts in the factory position".

It is true that a V8 (originally 283) will fit on the stock perches but if upgrading to a 350 V8 with a HEI distributor you have no choice but to move the engine forward to the front holes provided in the frame. I personally experienced this situation this week (see my build thread). Placing a SB350 on the stock perches in the original rear position (as my 250) would not allow for the distributor cap to be installed/removed unless I was willing to pound a major indent in the firewall. You could move forward using the stock perches but the lower hole in the cross member will not line up and requires a new hole be drilled. Personally I feel that if someone is moving the engine forward for any of these reasons, might as well upgrade to a stronger mounting. JMHO.

Indeed there are some other modifications to consider when moving the engine forward. My drive shaft had to be lengthened (re-tube) by 3.5" but considering it was already beat up I was willing to spend the extra 90 bucks including balance and new joint bearings. I already had the Lokar shift linkage so its just a matter of adjustment for the reduced length to my TH350 trans. I would recommend a similar linkage to the OP (65 chevy lover) if he too is running a TH350 of TH700R4 trans. It just makes set up easier. I don't have a recommendation for a manual trans but I'm sure it's been done as well.

The POL perches and mounts I mentioned do require the move to the forward position unless you are willing to drill a new hole in the cross member, but they are really designed for a forward position. Rear clearance could still be an issue is placed in the former rear position regardless of perch style. The other advantage of the forward position aside from added room in the back, is getting the engine and fan closer to the radiator. This was a huge plus for me because the difference between the longer L6 250 and my new SB350 was ~5-6". That gap between the fan and radiator even with a spacer was enormous.

[LVPhotos]

I did not have to move motor forward for HEI. Now I run a MSD ready to run for more upper rpm stability of spark. The 406cui fits just fine in the 283 place. I did go from front mount to side mounts 67-72. First 2 pic are Al's 62 in forward spot, the second 2 are mine in stock spot.

[Old Truck Man]

A 350 with HEI will fit in a 66 truck with the stock perches in the stock location without modifying the firewall. I just went out and took pictures of one that I own. The radiator to fan question is solved by a factory fiberglass fan shroud. This 3/4 ton had a 327 and granny 4 speed. it now has a 76 350 with HEI. Using all the 327 mounts flywheel bellhousing ect. no modifying anything other than we used a different intake to change the 4 BBL quadrajet carb to a two BBl.

[Old Truck Man]

On my 55 chev car a stock HEI wont fit without firewall modification. I bought a smaller diameter electronic distrubeter for it. I could have put a conversion kit in the stock points ignition.

[Kenfuzed]

Strange, the engine I just installed (SB350, newer generation block) with a MSD HEI had the back distributor tower almost touching the firewall. I could not fit a finger behind it. With the plug wire installed the boot would have been within 1/8" of the firewall, and forget about any ease of getting at the distributor screw.

I'm sure its been done, but I opted for the forward position to make my life easier down the road. It allows me to have easier access, closer proximity to the radiator without a special shroud, and the new mount combination handles the added HP without the chain.

The OP can do this either way he chooses, this was just what worked for me under similar circumstances.