Track bar?

[grs]

Do I have to remove the track bar in order to replace the rear coils on my 64?

[BMERDOC]

No. You shouldn't have to. It should droop far enough once you get the bolts out of the springs. You may have to take the lower bolts out of the shocks but I doubt it. I don't recall having to do that.

[grs]

Originally Posted by BMERDOC

No. You shouldn't have to. It should droop far enough once you get the bolts out of the springs. You may have to take the lower bolts out of the shocks but I doubt it. I don't recall having to do that.

How do I loosen the top bolt. I don't think I will be able to get an impact wrench under the bottom of the coil to loosen the bolt.

[cru_zn_29]

Breaker bar and a cheater pipe

[BMERDOC]

The Breaker Bar idea is probably your best option. IIRC, I used a breaker and 12" extension through the bottom of the spring once the lower was loose. Mine were so rusted that even after letting them pre-soak is penetrant they still snapped off and I had to replace the retainers. The lower retainers have a nut welded to them and the uppers use a nut and bolt through the frame. You can gain access to the top bolts inside the frame rails. Soak them down first but plan on buying all new fasteners as the old stuff will be pretty much useless once removed.

[BMERDOC]

I forgot to ask. Do you plan to use a stock height spring as a replacement?

[Indian113]

When I put my TJ springs in I used a Smoking Hack Saw to remove the top bolt. I just bought all new ones as I wanted easier bolts to work with.

[grs]

Originally Posted by BMERDOC

I forgot to ask. Do you plan to use a stock height spring as a replacement?

I will install 4 inch lower springs. I am 68 years old , and tired of working on old cars , and trucks. If I had a hoist it would be a lot easer. Thanks everyone.

[BMERDOC]

I hate to break it to you but you are going to want to swap that bar out for an adjustable unit. Lowering it without swapping in another bar puts the rear suspension in a bind and tries to shove the diff to the drivers side as the suspension cycles. If it doesn't see too much road time I wouldn't be too worried about it. Double adjustables are the way to go and can be had new for under $100. A single adjustable will do and can be had for less that $50 second hand. Just a little extra advice...

[grs]

Originally Posted by BMERDOC

I hate to break it to you but you are going to want to swap that bar out for an adjustable unit. Lowering it without swapping in another bar puts the rear suspension in a bind and tries to shove the diff to the drivers side as the suspension cycles. If it doesn't see too much road time I wouldn't be too worried about it. Double adjustables are the way to go and can be had new for under $100. A single adjustable will do and can be had for less that $50 second hand. Just a little extra advice...

What does double adjustable mean, and who sells them?

[BMERDOC]

Double adjustable is when both ends are threaded so that the bar can be twisted to adjust while still bolted in. For your application the single is probably good enough. Here is a link to P.O.L. I'm not endorsing them in any way I'm just using their products as an example. The single unit it $57.99 and the double adjustable unit is $109.

https://www.performanceonline.com/60...pension-parts/

[grs]

Originally Posted by BMERDOC

Double adjustable is when both ends are threaded so that the bar can be twisted to adjust while still bolted in. For your application the single is probably good enough. Here is a link to P.O.L. I'm not endorsing them in any way I'm just using their products as an example. The single unit it $57.99 and the double adjustable unit is $109.

https://www.performanceonline.com/60...pension-parts/

Thanks. Do you know who sells the double adjustable one?

[BMERDOC]

Looks like CPP has the most cost-effective one at $59.00. There may be others but I just did a quick search. Again, not endorsing anyone.

http://www.classicperform.com/Chevy-Truck.htm#38