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08-16-2003, 12:10 PM | #1 |
Registered User
Join Date: Aug 2003
Location: kentucky
Posts: 6
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any tips for checking charging sys.
I have a 1968. Is not charging.
-new battery, new battery cables, new regulator, alternator is fine (according to the test done at autozone), no lose wires that I can tell of Any tips on what I should do next. ? when I check with volt meter right on the alternator I only get 6 volts? ? electric diagram shows "fusible links", what are they, where are they? Thank you for any suggestions! - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - 8-25-03 I bought a new alternator. It's charging the battery. Overcharging maybe? When at idle voltage at battery reads 13.5 but when I give it some gas it goes up to 17.5. Also if there is suppose to be a light that comes on ("charging") in the dash when the truck is first started it doesn't come on. Does the regulator also suppose to limit the amount of the high end voltage? - - - - - - - - - - - - - - -- - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - 8-29-03 Bought another regulator. Now voltage readings are where they should be for the high and low limits. Last edited by webhendrix; 08-29-2003 at 12:27 PM. |
08-16-2003, 12:26 PM | #2 |
Senior Member
Join Date: Mar 2003
Location: Sparks, NV
Posts: 790
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The fuseable links are a " fuse" thats not the glass type. It is usally mounted on a plastic base of some sort. Or even could be in line( in the middle on a wire). As far as the voltage. You need more than 12 volts to charge the battery. Should be somewhere around13-15 volts DC. Check your ground connections. Does the engine shut-off when you disconnect the battery?
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08-16-2003, 12:58 PM | #3 |
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Join Date: Jul 2000
Location: NC
Posts: 987
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Perhaps clean all your connections. Make sure the wires are all in good shape. The alternator could still be bad. I had Advance Auto test my alternator...said it was good. Turned out it was not.
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08-16-2003, 01:53 PM | #4 | |
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Join Date: May 2002
Location: Winnipeg, Manitoba, Canada
Posts: 739
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Re: any tips for checking charging sys.
Quote:
and when not running it should read 12-12.5 volts. how old is that alternator?, id start there again. If you don't want to remove the alternator, take it to a Walmart auto center, when i worked there they had a portable diagnostic computer which just hooked up to you battery and tested the battery, alternator, diodes and charging circuits, that is if you'll let soemone else drive your truck, lol Jared
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My Rides 1967 C10 In Pieces for now 1985 Ford B700 SourPuss Bus - BIG BLUE 2003 Silverado CITY WORKER YELLOW!! |
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08-16-2003, 08:09 PM | #5 |
CCRider
Join Date: Feb 2000
Location: Olive Branch,MS,USA
Posts: 2,232
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If you were checking voltage at the alternator with the wire hooked up you should get battery voltage even if the alternator was not working...so if you were just getting 6 volts it seems the wire from the alternator to the battery is the problem.
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72 GMC Sierra SWB almost finished---- 84 Softail Olive Branch MS |
08-16-2003, 11:14 PM | #6 |
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Join Date: Mar 2003
Location: Stillwater MN
Posts: 1,166
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With the truck running, pull the positive bat cable off. If it quits replace the alt. If it stays running, turn on the lights, if it quits, replace the alt!
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69 GMC K10 ..some restoration required....still.. |
08-16-2003, 11:51 PM | #7 |
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Join Date: Jan 2003
Location: Santa Fe, Texas
Posts: 250
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With the engine running: Check the voltage at the back of the Alternator. If it is less than 13 your alt is probably bad. Then follow the wire checking voltages along the way till you find where it drops. That is your dead spot. If your battery only has 6 volts with the truck running you probably need to fully charge the battery over night on a 2amp trickle charge. A fully charged battery should be about 12.5 volts. Anything less than 10 volts shouldn't even crank the truck. By the sound of it I would be you have a battery that is to far down for the truck to keep up.
Mike |
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