'67-'72 Power Brake Booster Bracket With Hydraulic Clutch Conversion

[Captainfab]

This kit converts your ’67-’72 Chevy or GMC truck to power brakes and also a hydraulic clutch. The brake booster part is identical to the standard booster brackets that I make and bolts to the firewall using factory threaded holes. Consequently the same compatible boosters will fit as well as the hydroboost mounting plate that I also make. The booster bracket is fabricated from laser cut 10 ga mild steel, Then formed and TIG welded on the outside and MIG welded on the inside. The clutch master cylinder will be a Wilwood master cylinder sized to work with the particular clutch slave cylinder or hydraulic throw out bearing that you will be using. The linkage assembly parts are all zinc plated to resist rust. Included in the kit is everything shown in the picture below.

To install the master cylinder you will have to drill (2) 11/32" holes for the mounting bolts, and a 1 1/2" hole (with a hole saw) to accommodate the center of the master cylinder. You will also need to drill a 3/8" hole in the clutch pedal arm aprox 5" down from the center of the pivot. This will be right about where the bend is but up enough for room to bolt up the standoff. Then the clutch master pushrod with a clevis connects to the lever arm and another clevis with the threaded rod and heim joint bolts to the standoff on the other end.

The cost of this kit will be $260.00 plus a flat rate shipping cost of $22.65. Satin black powder coating is available for an additional $10.50. The price here is not current and up to date

To purchase yours either post in this thread, send me a PM or send an email to captainfab454@hotmail.com, and I will give you the ordering and payment instructions and current lead time.

THE '71-'72 FACTORY BRAKE BOOSTERS ARE NOT COMPATIBLE WITH ANY OF MY BOOSTER BRACKETS. PLUS THE DIAMETER IS TOO LARGE FOR USE WITH THE HYDRAULIC CLUTCH.

[madmaxburban]

I have power brakes and am currently swapping out auto to TKO 600 and want to put hydraulic clutch with throw out bearing. Do u make hydro bracket without the brake booster bracket and do u have any pics on how that linkage setup connect to clutch pedal. Or would it be best just to replace my brake bracket with your whole assembly. Thanks ,Mike

[Captainfab]

No, I do not make a hydraulic clutch bracket separate from the brake booster bracket. Depending on which booster you have, that can likely just be bolted up to this booster bracket.

The only pics I have of the assembled linkage are in the for sale thread for the '60-'62 bracket. There is a link to it in my sig line. Here are the pics of the linkage on the '60-'62 which will be basically the same as what is used in the '67-'72's.

Originally Posted by madmaxburban

I have power brakes and am currently swapping out auto to TKO 600 and want to put hydraulic clutch with throw out bearing. Do u make hydro bracket without the brake booster bracket and do u have any pics on how that linkage setup connect to clutch pedal. Or would it be best just to replace my brake bracket with your whole assembly. Thanks ,Mike

[Captainfab]

Bump for those that have sent me PM's about this.

[SierraMtns]

Would you sell part of a kit? I have manual brakes.

[jlsanborn]

Ugh! I missed this one too. I'm already part way down this road but would love to incorporate some of your bits to finish it up. Looks nice!!

[Captainfab]

Yes, which part(s) would you like?

Originally Posted by SierraMtns

Would you sell part of a kit? I have manual brakes.

Let me know what you need.

Originally Posted by jlsanborn

Ugh! I missed this one too. I'm already part way down this road but would love to incorporate some of your bits to finish it up. Looks nice!!

[kitsbeach]

Does this kit accept the regular power brake booster and master cylinder that most of us already have.?

[Captainfab]

That depends on exactly what booster you have. All of my booster brackets are designed to use brake boosters with a 3-3/8" x 3-1/2" stud pattern. There are many, many factory boosters with that stud pattern, including the '67-'70 boosters. The '71-'72 boosters have a stud pattern of 3-1/2" x 3-1/2"

Originally Posted by kitsbeach

Does this kit accept the regular power brake booster and master cylinder that most of us already have.?

[eric8]

Man this is exactly what I've been waiting for and really like the way you made the clutch linkage coming from the pedal. I'm kinda torn though because I just paid big money to have the original OE power brake Delco booster rebuilt and cad plated so I want to keep it. And as you pointed out, it has a bolt pattern is specific to a 72 model.

All I'm needing this for is to take the headache out of engineering the hydraulic clutch setup for a T56 swap. Any way you make me a kit with your bracket modified to just serve as a clutch mc mount? Something like what's pictured? Pleeeease??

[Captainfab]

There are 2 ways to go about this. One would be to slightly elongate the booster mounting holes in the booster bracket to accept your '72 booster. This would move the booster much closer to the firewall for a cleaner look. With this option, you will have to lengthen the booster pushrod to reach the pedal. This can easily be done by joining the booster pushrod to the pushrod from the pedal, once they are trimmed to the correct length. Second option would be that I can send you the base bracket without the booster mounts welded to it. Then you can sandwich the base bracket between your factory booster brackets and the firewall. Will you want this in bare steel or satin black powder coat? Let me know which way you would like to go.

Originally Posted by eric8

Man this is exactly what I've been waiting for and really like the way you made the clutch linkage coming from the pedal. I'm kinda torn though because I just paid big money to have the original OE power brake Delco booster rebuilt and cad plated so I want to keep it. And as you pointed out, it has a bolt pattern is specific to a 72 model.

All I'm needing this for is to take the headache out of engineering the hydraulic clutch setup for a T56 swap. Any way you make me a kit with your bracket modified to just serve as a clutch mc mount? Something like what's pictured? Pleeeease??

[eric8]

Can anyone who has purchased this (or you, Captainfab) advise how much stroke is achieved where the clevis attaches to the clutch master pushrod on a full clutch pedal stroke? I'm trying to size my master cylinder bore according to a specific throwout bearing and I'm being told this spec. is necessary to do so.

[Captainfab]

The Wilwood clutch master that I would provide you has a max stroke of 1.4". The stroke is the same regardless of the bore size. If you need less stroke, the hole you drill in the pedal arm can be moved up a little or I can work with you on the pedal stop idea I have that I mentioned this morning.

http://www.wilwood.com/MasterCylinde...temno=260-1304

[eric8]

Hi Captain
Yeah I noticed those specs on Wilwoods website. I'm using a stock LS1 throw out bearing from a 98-02 Camaro. In stock configuration, that was mated to a 3/4" bore master cylinder that used 1.2" of stroke. So, using an area of .44 sq inches for the piston times the stock stroke depth, I'd need to move .52 cubic inches of fluid to get the throwout bearing to fully release per stock specs.
Now it will be great if the stock pedal with your brackets provides more than enough stroke (greater than 1.2") where I can fine tune it with a pedal stop. However, I'm wondering how much travel your setup provides at the Clovis because what if it's only something like .75"? If that's the case a full stroke of the stock pedal would never give full release of the clutch unless I got a 7/8" bore or larger. I just want to be sure I order the right master before I purchase the kit.

[eric8]

I guess the only way to know this spec is to have a truck with the system already mocked up and in place. Not sure if you have this or not, but figured once these kits get out and in circulation someone could provide this to help everyone order the right master cylinder for their particular throwout bearing. I noticed your ad states that the kit includes a master cylinder properly sized for the buyer's application, so I assume you offer different sizes of the Wilwood units in your kit besides the 3/4"?

[Captainfab]

The whole purpose of the linkage assembly is to allow full swing of the clutch pedal but only move the piston in the clutch master 1.4". For your application, I can either send you a .750" bore clutch master cylinder and use a pedal stop, or I can send you a clutch master with a .700" bore which will deliver the same amount of fluid at the full 1.4" as a .750" bore will at 1.2" stroke. I try to keep a few different clutch master cylinders in stock. If I do not have the one needed, it only takes 2 business days to get one.

[jlsanborn]

Captainfab hooked me up with a partial of this kit as I had already done my own booster mod and already had the same master cylinder. Mine went into a '67 so it's slightly different than what's pictured above. Let me say that every piece of this kit is HIGH QUALITY (laser cut, nicely deburred / chamfered, plated, grade 8 hardware, etc...) All combined it's a fantastic design. This is a super easy install and looks great. I haven't done the slave yet but clearly this is going to work perfect. The pedal goes very close to the floor and the actuation is super smooth and spot-on. Well done John!

I bolted the laser cut plate to the firewall, used the closest size hole saw I had and ran it through. I used a burr much like a flush trim router bit, letting the smooth part of the shank ride on the plate while the cutters flushed the sheet metal to the plate. It's easy to use the plate as a pilot to stab the 11/32" holes for the master mounting flange. I drilled a hole in my clutch pedal lever to line up with the installed master cylinder linkage and simply bolted it all together. Works slick and looks awesome!

[tjsblazer]

Originally Posted by jlsanborn

Captainfab hooked me up with a partial of this kit as I had already done my own booster mod and already had the same master cylinder. Mine went into a '67 so it's slightly different than what's pictured above. Let me say that every piece of this kit is HIGH QUALITY (laser cut, nicely deburred / chamfered, plated, grade 8 hardware, etc...) All combined it's a fantastic design. This is a super easy install and looks great. I haven't done the slave yet but clearly this is going to work perfect. The pedal goes very close to the floor and the actuation is super smooth and spot-on. Well done John!

I bolted the laser cut plate to the firewall, used the closest size hole saw I had and ran it through. I used a burr much like a flush trim router bit, letting the smooth part of the shank ride on the plate while the cutters flushed the sheet metal to the plate. It's easy to use the plate as a pilot to stab the 11/32" holes for the master mounting flange. I drilled a hole in my clutch pedal lever to line up with the installed master cylinder linkage and simply bolted it all together. Works slick and looks awesome!

That looks great. I think what you did is what I need to finish my setup.
I have a question I will PM you to keep this for sale thread clean.
Quality of parts looks great Captain.

[Captainfab]

Thank you jlsanborn for the compliments and posting pics of your installation.

I appreciate it

Thank you tjsblazer for the compliments as well.

[dbrandtlbrandt]

Originally Posted by Captainfab

This kit converts your ’67-’72 Chevy or GMC truck to power brakes and also a hydraulic clutch. The brake booster part is identical to the standard booster brackets that I make and bolts to the firewall using factory threaded holes. Consequently the same compatible boosters will fit as well as the hydroboost mounting plate that I also make. The booster bracket is fabricated from laser cut 10 ga mild steel, Then formed and TIG welded on the outside and MIG welded on the inside. The clutch master cylinder will be a Wilwood master cylinder sized to work with the particular clutch slave cylinder or hydraulic throw out bearing that you will be using. The linkage assembly parts are all zinc plated to resist rust. Included in the kit is everything shown in the picture below.

To install the master cylinder you will have to drill (2) 11/32" holes for the mounting bolts, and a 1 1/2" hole (with a hole saw) to accomodate the center of the master cylinder. You will also need to drill a 3/8" hole in the clutch pedal arm aprox 5" down from the center of the pivot. This will be right about where the bend is but up enough for room to bolt up the standoff. Then the clutch master pushrod with a clevis connects to the lever arm and another clevis with the threaded rod and heim joint bolts to the standoff on the other end.

The cost of this kit will be $207.50 plus a flat rate shipping cost of $16.35. Satin black powder coating is available for an additional $8.50.

To purchase yours either post in this thread, send me a PM or send me an email at captainfab454 @ hotmail dot com. For payments I accept PayPal and money orders.

Posted via Mobile Device

[Captainfab]

I don't see a reply dbrandtlbrandt ?

[70blackfish]

nice fab work capt.....!!!

[Captainfab]

Thanks for the compliment

[dbrandtlbrandt]

Originally Posted by Captainfab

I don't see a reply dbrandtlbrandt ?

I am checking to see if I can buy the firewall plate and hardware. I don't need the master cylinder. I have a new brake booster. Thanks, Dave
Posted via Mobile Device

[Captainfab]

If you don't want the clutch master cylinder, the cost is $50.00 less. Is the new brake booster you have compatible with my booster brackets? Are you wanting this in bare steel or satin black powder coat?

Originally Posted by dbrandtlbrandt

I am checking to see if I can buy the firewall plate and hardware. I don't need the master cylinder. I have a new brake booster. Thanks, Dave
Posted via Mobile Device