1965 frame swap into 1956?

[gabe2000]

Is it possible? I been doing my homework and find nothing on this swap. there's alot infor about 1973-88 swap on a 55-57 chevy truck. But what about 1960-66 frames? please any help. I know its easier to do subframes but This truck has no frame and my friend has 1965 sb frame.

[gabe2000]

oh, its 1/2 ton.

[Axe]

I have put my 51 on a 66 frame, it's not bad to do. You will need to be able to cut and weld some. If you need any help I can show the pics and explain the way I did it.

[OrrieG]

Axe, a short build thread on what you did would be helpful to current and future guys looking at that swap, it is ask a lot.

[cadman89]

I am about to do this swap on a 69 C10 Chassis.. It has been done before and is not that hard to do.. The new chassis is only one inch longer and the same width as the original frame.

http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/s...d.php?t=603712



Cadman

[OrrieG]

Does the kick up in the back affect the bed floor??

[cadman89]

Originally Posted by OrrieG

Does the kick up in the back affect the bed floor??

No The bed bolts right on the Chassis but the cab has to be raised up about 4"
you can take the cab mounts off an original frame and weld a plate to them and bolt them on the new chassis higher up. Or you can fab up your own mounts...

[Axe]

I put some 3x3 square tubing in the saddle of my 66 frame. I relocated all of the cab mounts and used the body mount bushings from a s-10 I have. Since I was replacing the entire floor pan I built a frame to stiffen the floor. I'm also going to box my entire frame because of making it 4x4 and going to put a goose neck ball in the bed. The last pic is mocked up on the 66 frame to get my gaps right. One thing is I'm not putting a wood bed floor, I'm using the metal floor from a later bed, so that lowers everything about 3/4 inch. I will put up a more detailed thread with pics later.

[gabe2000]

thanks for reply but iam is 1956 chevy truck. and I really dont want it high. maybe lower then stock.

[Axe]

gabe2000 the reason in putting the 3 or 4" under the cab is that 59 and earlier frames didn't have a saddle. The tailgate end of your bed sets right on the frame, so you have to raise the cab some to make them work out. The only other thing you can do is mount your cab in the saddle and raise the floor in the bed, but this will also cause problems mounting your motor. Raising the cab is really like using a 56 frame your just taking out the saddle. I hope this didn't confuse you, good luck with your build.

[OrrieG]

Originally Posted by cadman89

No The bed bolts right on the Chassis but the cab has to be raised up about 4"
you can take the cab mounts off an original frame and weld a plate to them and bolt them on the new chassis higher up. Or you can fab up your own mounts...

So the bed and cab horizontal accent lines do not line up without raising the bed too? Step side maybe not an issue, Fleetside more so.

[gabe2000]

sorry but what is saddle? is the frame body mounts? or body frame mounts?
I know I have to make a critical decision because the front wheels might rub the fender lip but not so important to the rear.

its a step side so the bed can have original location on the body mounts and have different level from the cab. (slightly different)

I can always open more the tranny tunnel. That easier then major cab frame work.

I can have it open until tranny/engine is installed.

[Axe]

The saddle is the part of the frame that dips down between the front and rear axles. I don't know if you have your cab off the 56 frame but the frame id straight it doesn't have that dip in it. To make the bed and cab body lines, line up correctly you are basically taking out the saddle when you raise the cab. You can still lower your truck with the suspension just like any other truck. If you look at my thread ( 51 gmc 4x4) in 4x4 projects I have some pics of How I put my 51 on a 66 frame that might help a little.

[gabe2000]

iam just planning ahead. not ready to work on it. thx for the infor

[octanejunkie]

I've looked into doing this too, but I wanted to lift my truck and that's not as easy as lowering the truck with IFS and trailing arm rears. You can always modify the rear trailing arms and springs and get drop spindles to lower the truck.

Raising the cab to match the bed is pretty standard when swapping frames, the earlier frames were almost straight, imagine a ladder lying down. The later frames have contoured notches to match the suspension travel and optimize geometry - this is the main reason to consider this swap, IMO. Your get improved suspension and controls and more modern parts without interchanging with several different vehicles.

Persoanally I think it's a worthwhile journey for you if you don't have a OE frame for your truck. Don't sweat the details of how, that's all been documented, just start assessing your truck and start making lists of things you can use, things you can salvage from the donor vehicle and things you will need to buy so there are no major surprises during the build.

Have fun and start a build thread!