Drive shaft

[Daman]

What's everyone using for drive shafts?

My Boss' pickup has a 468ci BB, th400, tranny brake and runs high 11s low 12s. He cannot keep a rear driveshaft in it. He actually spun the pumpkin in the axle tubes a couple years ago.

His last one was supposed to be built to last but didn't

This was his last race


This was after our car show a couple years ago

[Daman]

So no one on here actually races their pickups or they just don't make any kind of power to break a stock drive shaft.

[Marv D]

I think the thing is, I don't know anyone that would try to use a stock driveshaft with any kind of power at all. Anything on slicks pulling 1.7ish 60' times should have good driveshaft with 1350 U-joints and better yokes.

I use 2 companies. Down to the 11's and 12's a good mild steel or Chrome Moly shaft with 1350 yokes and u-joints from Dynotec

Once a car (or ESPECIALLY a HEAVY truck) dips into the mid 10's or below, or 1.4 sixty's there is only ONE source for driveshaft IMO ,,, Mark Williams.



(Welding the axle tubes for anything that hooks should be SOP for anything that quick IMO)

[Lee H]

I got my drive shaft from Inland Empire Driveline. Built to x HP and torque. You name x and they build it. Most any driveline shop can do this for street strip builds.

My C10 runs inconsistent low 13s to high 12s. Next up, a set of drag radials..........

[KQQL IT]

3.5" .083 dom tube with 1350 Spicer u joints. 12.0xx
1.66/69 60' so far 100 + passes 4000lbs


http://www.drive-lines.com from the fresno store

[Keith Seymore]

I'm low tens in a 3950 lb Chevelle (9.85 @136mph best), so around 900 HP. 555 cu in naturally aspirated, TH400 trans.

Dynotech 3" mild steel shaft, 1350 joints and yokes, no issues - probably 500 passes or so.

K

[vin63]

He'll need to talk with a reputable driveshaft maker about the specifications of the truck: weight, drive train (including driveshaft angles) and driveshaft measurements. There are some critical speed factors involved that are closely tied to driveshaft length. I have run everything from carbon fiber to sold steel from Mark Williams in my race cars. I have used local builders for my street car/hot rod projects. If he has exhausted the local builders, I would talk to Mark Williams, Strange, Denny's, etc. about building a driveshaft specific for his application.

[KQQL IT]

If I'm seeing the pic right. It looks like a long bed. Would make it a 2 piece ?

[Daman]

Thanks guys. The last one that broke was built for that pickup.

Yes, it's a 2 piece. I forwarded him this info

[Hollow65]

Any update on this? I just had a dream I left licorice shaped driveshafts down Barona. I've been running a 2 piece for ever, but never had any traction. Kinda worried.

[ItsRandy]

Originally Posted by Lee H

I got my drive shaft from Inland Empire Driveline. Built to x HP and torque. You name x and they build it. Most any driveline shop can do this for street strip builds.

My C10 runs inconsistent low 13s to high 12s. Next up, a set of drag radials..........

Inland Empire Driveline is where I got mine too. They don't give 'em away but nice parts.

[Hollow65]

Did you have to measure for them or did they have direct fit parts?

[Captainfab]

I always recommend measuring your particular vehicle's driveshaft(s) length requirement. That is the only way to get a proper fit. There are just to many variables, particularly in a 50 year old truck, with the engine in either of 2 locations and any number of transmissions.

[Wasted Income]

Dynotech Engineering.

Great guys to talk with, super fast turnaround time, HIGH quality product.
http://www.dynotechengineering.com/

I got a 4" aluminum with 1350 joints. They rate it to like 1200 hp.

[Hollow65]

Thanks guys, I think I'm going with inland empire driveline.