Fuel tank question

[barmanvarn]

Note: I've yet to pull the old tank out of the truck and look inside, so there are some unknowns right now. But figured I'd start exploring my options......

At some point (way down the road) in the resto, I want to move to a tank between the frame rails, but for now I have to work with what I have.

A new stock tank looks to be around $150. I called a local radiator shop and their estimate to clean the tank was $250. WTF?

So my questions are:
Is that quote way too high?
If the tank isn't too bad, do I have an option of cleaning it myself?
If it is bad, and the quote is accurate, I guess I should just by a new in-cab tank for now?

thanks

[leftybass209]

Yes, i would say that 250 is high, mainly because i cleaned mine myself and it cost less than 50 bucks. I pulled the tank and hosed it out first. Then i used POR15 marine clean. 2 bottles would work well. I just filled it, sloshed it around, and kept rotating it in the sun for the majority of the day. Then i drained it, and used POR15 metal ready. It's a rust remover and leaves a phosphate coating. At that point i could have used a tank liner, but i chose to not do that because i heard some liners could peel and deteriorate. I left my tank dry for months because my engine wasn't ready to fire. I peeked in the tank just to be sure it was clean, and it was still rust free! However, if your end goal is to move it under the bed, and can afford the 150, you should save some pennies and look into the Camaro tank option.

[barmanvarn]

Originally Posted by leftybass209

Yes, i would say that 250 is high, mainly because i cleaned mine myself and it cost less than 50 bucks. I pulled the tank and hosed it out first. Then i used POR15 marine clean. 2 bottles would work well. I just filled it, sloshed it around, and kept rotating it in the sun for the majority of the day. Then i drained it, and used POR15 metal ready. It's a rust remover and leaves a phosphate coating. At that point i could have used a tank liner, but i chose to not do that because i heard some liners could peel and deteriorate. I left my tank dry for months because my engine wasn't ready to fire. I peeked in the tank just to be sure it was clean, and it was still rust free! However, if your end goal is to move it under the bed, and can afford the 150, you should save some pennies and look into the Camaro tank option.

Thanks for the info. I have read some on the Camaro tank and like it. Also like the hidden cap behind the side marker light.

It'll be a good time to do the tank when I get around to replacing the bed floor that is full of rust holes. Still, a long way to go before I get to that stage. Right now I'm just shooting for road-worthy.

I'll know more after I can remove the old tank and peek inside. Hopefully this weekend. The tank has some gas it in and has been sitting for about 15 years so I have no idea what I'm going to find when I look inside.

Have a new rad to install first and then (hopefully) I can sign off on the engine for a bit and move on to brakes. I just know I have to do something about the tank so I'll be able to drive it around (been using a portable/temporary gas can for the time being).

[cdowns]

A sky high estimate to clean a tank they must not really need the business

tank is easy enough to clean yourself with the aid of a pressure washer and some pool cleaning chemicals available at lowes home depot or ace hardware for a cheap enough price

[barmanvarn]

Originally Posted by cdowns

A sky high estimate to clean a tank they must not really need the business

tank is easy enough to clean yourself with the aid of a pressure washer and some pool cleaning chemicals available at lowes home depot or ace hardware for a cheap enough price

No kidding!

I've never seen a repair estimate cost more than what is being repaired. LOL