vent window woes

[highwinger]

So, I finally got all the pieces needed to replace the vent window weather stripping...which took three attempts after watching the videos: 1) got the rubber (Brothers P/N VWW0072 which I expect is Precision), 2) noticed the repair kit is needed for the rivets & tools (rivet & plastic w/s tool) (from LMC). 3) noticed the window channel felt needed replacing, or at least it's a convenient time to replace (45min drive to Ecklers).

I had a hard time getting the assy out. Another thread showed the proper angle (vent perpendicular & inward), but none of the videos or pics included the window belts (horizontal felt/rubber). Unfortunately, I cracked my window & scratched the tint & paint before pulling up the belts enough to pass the bracket...but it finally came out. Removing the rivets & the rubber went as expected.

The troubles started on the install. It appears some rubber has to be cut to install correctly; namely, around the pivot bracket pic#1 (not the spring which did need a flashing removed too). I think some trimming was needed at the junction between the two rubber pieces #2. I couldn't find any reference to needing this, but the rubber wouldn't seat properly until trimmed. Anyone else need this?

The real problem came in testing the tension on the vent window. I have to work the rubber around the window in the forward angle #3 and move the upper part of the window forward #4 to get the window to close. I think the rubber is still in the channel, but it doesn't really act that way. After installing back in the burb, I did have to reseat some rubber in the channel. Any way o fix?

Another question I have where the rubber goes on the outside. My other window has it inside the door, but that seems wrong. Why wouldn't the rubber sit on top of the door to keep (or limit) water & air from entering between the door & vent. I tried both ways & the rubber doesn't seat well to the door either. Actually, its sits weird when the rubber is reseated forward of the tension pivot point. It sits flatter when the rubber isn't in the channel. Can someone verify the rubber is supposed to go on top?

[highwinger]

#6 is with rubber tucked in like driver window

[highwinger]

try attachment again

[highwinger]

I still fix my window travel too. It doesn't go up & down as smooth as it used to. They are power windows. The crack has gotten bigger since yesterday, so I'm afraid it may progress quickly as I use & drive it. I may need to get a pro to replace the driver gasket & two windows since they are now both cracked. I really wanted to do this myself.

Any advice?

[highwinger]

Oh & mucho kudos to the others that posted the details & videos. I couldn't have made it this far without them. Great forum

[LockDoc]

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I Don't have time to reply today but I will see what I can do tonight.

LockDoc

[LockDoc]

Originally Posted by highwinger

So, I finally got all the pieces needed to replace the vent window weather stripping...which took three attempts after watching the videos: 1) got the rubber (Brothers P/N VWW0072 which I expect is Precision), 2) noticed the repair kit is needed for the rivets & tools (rivet & plastic w/s tool) (from LMC). 3) noticed the window channel felt needed replacing, or at least it's a convenient time to replace (45min drive to Ecklers).

I had a hard time getting the assy out. Another thread showed the proper angle (vent perpendicular & inward), but none of the videos or pics included the window belts (horizontal felt/rubber). Unfortunately, I cracked my window & scratched the tint & paint before pulling up the belts enough to pass the bracket...but it finally came out. Removing the rivets & the rubber went as expected.

The troubles started on the install. It appears some rubber has to be cut to install correctly; namely, around the pivot bracket pic#1 (not the spring which did need a flashing removed too). I think some trimming was needed at the junction between the two rubber pieces #2. I couldn't find any reference to needing this, but the rubber wouldn't seat properly until trimmed. Anyone else need this?

The real problem came in testing the tension on the vent window. I have to work the rubber around the window in the forward angle #3 and move the upper part of the window forward #4 to get the window to close. I think the rubber is still in the channel, but it doesn't really act that way. After installing back in the burb, I did have to reseat some rubber in the channel. Any way o fix?

Another question I have where the rubber goes on the outside. My other window has it inside the door, but that seems wrong. Why wouldn't the rubber sit on top of the door to keep (or limit) water & air from entering between the door & vent. I tried both ways & the rubber doesn't seat well to the door either. Actually, its sits weird when the rubber is reseated forward of the tension pivot point. It sits flatter when the rubber isn't in the channel. Can someone verify the rubber is supposed to go on top?

OK, I will give this a try. It has been a while since I did mine and I am a two fingered typer with CRS, so bear with me.

I always completely remove the inner and outer window sweeps any time I remove the windows or wing vents. You will most likely mess them up when you remove them and will have to install new ones. Any time you need new ones don't use anything but these....

http://www.classicindustries.com/pro...ts/cr1103.html

http://www.classicindustries.com/pro...ts/cr1073.html

The only difference in the two sets is one is stainless and one is chrome plated stainless...

There may be other vendors on here that sell the same brand (I hope they post up if they do) but I think the manufacturer is pretty selective who they let distribute the product.

These are the best window felts/sweeps I have found. Made in the USA by Clark Industries, Pearcy, AR and go by the "Repops" brand. (Picture below)

First, I don't remember having to trim anything on mine. When you put them back together you have to make sure that the rubber is all the way down in the channel of the vent frame. I had to push mine down in with a dull putty knife and a wide blade screwdriver while using some soapy water. If the rubber is not seated in the channel it will hold the vent window too far back and that is what makes your door window roll up hard. The rubber goes down inside the door frame, not on top.

When you install the new door glass fuzzy in the long vent window channel make sure you nave all of the old fuzzy peeled out and scraped down good. You can leave the stainless trim on the top edges.

If you have everything installed correctly and seated good the vent window will be a little tight when you close it but you shouldn't have to use a lot of force on it.

Let me know if I missed anything....

LockDoc

[highwinger]

Thanks Doc for the detailed response. I will recall the links when I'm ready to replace the door glass. Have you used Classic Industry's door glass too?

I'm really surprised the rubber tucks in the door. I found the plastic stick used for windshield installation real good at working the rubber since its blunt and stiff so it doesn't harm the rubber.

wrt the vertical channel, mine had been replaced before, so I didn't have to cut it out like in the video. However, it did have rubber cement remnants which may have left the new piece a bit proud making the window travel tight.

One thing I noticed is the pivot rivet has more slop than I'd expect. I tried to clamp down on the rivet more, but it didn't seem to help. I wish I had welded the rivet tool to a c-clamp as one of the threads recommended. I used a punch in a vise to apply the back pressure while hammering the tool down on the rivet to form it. I tried a F-clamps since I have more of those, but it didn't work well. I bought an extra tool so I could cut one in half for the welding purpose. I will try it that way on the driver vent.

[LockDoc]

Originally Posted by highwinger

Thanks Doc for the detailed response. I will recall the links when I'm ready to replace the door glass. Have you used Classic Industry's door glass too?

I'm really surprised the rubber tucks in the door. I found the plastic stick used for windshield installation real good at working the rubber since its blunt and stiff so it doesn't harm the rubber.

wrt the vertical channel, mine had been replaced before, so I didn't have to cut it out like in the video. However, it did have rubber cement remnants which may have left the new piece a bit proud making the window travel tight.

One thing I noticed is the pivot rivet has more slop than I'd expect. I tried to clamp down on the rivet more, but it didn't seem to help. I wish I had welded the rivet tool to a c-clamp as one of the threads recommended. I used a punch in a vise to apply the back pressure while hammering the tool down on the rivet to form it. I tried a F-clamps since I have more of those, but it didn't work well. I bought an extra tool so I could cut one in half for the welding purpose. I will try it that way on the driver vent.

No, I have never bought new glass for any of my builds.

It makes it a lot easier with the rivets if you have a helper to hold the vent window while you seat them.

Just for reference here is how I install my windows and vents (reverse for removal):

There are a couple of different thoughts on this but here is how I assemble mine.

Make sure you have the new felt window channel in the wing window. But do not install the felt channel around the top and down inside the rear of the door yet.

Insert the rear door glass guide/channel into the door but don’t bolt it in place yet.

Install the door latch remote and window riser mechanisms if they have been removed.. (make sure the roller is in the track on the inside of the door)

With the window riser arms part way down (horizontal position) install the window. (you have to slide it toward the front to get it started into the roller guides) After you have the window installed roll it down, and slide it back toward the door latch. (make sure it doesn’t slide out of the track)

Insert the wing window lower bracket into the window opening from the inside of the door, about where the window and wing window meet. After it is inside the door rotate the wing window to it’s correct orientation and slide it down into place.

Put the three (I think) small flat head screws through the angled part of the door frame and into the wing window, then put the two ¼” machine screws through the bottom holes in the door inner panel and into the bottom bracket of the wing window.

Now slide the door window forward into the wing window channel.

Put the door window felt channel into the door frame starting at the top of the wing window and work your way around to the back. Be sure and push up on the felt channel as you go around the corner. Do not put it into the inside of the door yet.

Put the rear glass guide/channel up into place and put the ¼” machine screw in at the top by the door latch but do not tighten it up.

Insert the felt window channel down inside the door and press it into the remainder of the door frame and rear glass guide/channel. Push the rear glass guide/channel in against the window glass and put the two ¼” machine screws through the bottom holes in the door inner panel into the bottom bracket of the glass guide/channel. Now tighten all of the machine screws up and try the window to see how it works.

Put your new inner and outer window sweeps on and you are done. You may have to trim them slightly for length.

I hope I haven’t forgotten any steps in the process and if I have I hope someone points them out.

LockDoc

[highwinger]

I pulled the vent window back out today in attempt to reseat the rubber in the channel assuming that was the problem. I did reseat it as much as I could before pulling it out too. Well it turns out it was seated and I didn't make the situation any better. In fact, the door is now cracked a lot more.

There is two prevailing issues as I can see. First, the vent glass has to move forward to close. Second, the rounded part hits the rubber keeping it from closing and it also pulls the rubber from the door channel.

This is very frustrating.

[LockDoc]

Originally Posted by highwinger

I pulled the vent window back out today in attempt to reseat the rubber in the channel assuming that was the problem. I did reseat it as much as I could before pulling it out too. Well it turns out it was seated and I didn't make the situation any better. In fact, the door is now cracked a lot more.

There is two prevailing issues as I can see. First, the vent glass has to move forward to close. Second, the rounded part hits the rubber keeping it from closing and it also pulls the rubber from the door channel.

This is very frustrating.

At this point I'm not sure what to tell you without actually being there. I don't know if there is more than one manufacturer of the replacement kits or not. I didn't have much trouble with mine but I don't know who manufactured it. I bought it from a local parts vendor and I'm pretty sure he gets his parts from Classic Parts in Riverside, MO. Here is a link: http://www.classicparts.com/1967-72-.../#.VOeofLbVrTo

LockDoc

[highwinger]

I tried Ecklers since they are close enough to drive to but they have the same brand I already have. I can your co. And see who they use. Thanks for the link.

[highwinger]

They say they have them made by United. Got em on order. Worth a shot.

[LockDoc]

Originally Posted by highwinger

They say they have them made by United. Got em on order. Worth a shot.

Sounds good. Keep us posted.....

LockDoc

[highwinger]

In this thread: http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/s...d.php?t=157539 it states to remove the vent window to remove the door window. I was expecting to do the reverse since I cracked the door glass removing & installing the vent window, specifically at the forward upper corner of the glass. I had to remove the vertical fwd felt too in order to rotate the vent assy enough to remove & install. But then, the glass hits the metal of the channel which is where I got some cracking & chipping. Help?

[LockDoc]

Originally Posted by highwinger

In this thread: http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/s...d.php?t=157539 it states to remove the vent window to remove the door window. I was expecting to do the reverse since I cracked the door glass removing & installing the vent window, specifically at the forward upper corner of the glass. I had to remove the vertical fwd felt too in order to rotate the vent assy enough to remove & install. But then, the glass hits the metal of the channel which is where I got some cracking & chipping. Help?

Nope, you have to remove or slide back the door glass to get the vent out.

I typed this up tonight so I will post it here too...

'67-'72 Chevy & GMC vent window removal.

Remove the inside door handle and window riser handle.

Remove the door inner panel.

Remove the inner and outer window sweeps. (You can’t pull the wing window back to get it out of the door frame with them in place)

Pull the door window channel out of the door frame at the top by the wing window. (You can’t pull the wing window back to get it out of the door frame with it in place)

Remove the two ¼” machine screws at the bottom of the "rear" window channel and the ¼” machine screw from the the top of the "rear" window channel by the door latch. You can leave the channel in the door but push it back in the corner.

(If you are going to replace the window felt channel pull it all out starting up by the top of the wing window)

Roll the door window down and slide it back away from the wing window.

Remove the three small flat head screws that go through the angled part of the door frame and into the wing window, then remove the two ¼” machine screws from the bottom holes in the inner door that screw into the bottom bracket of the wing window.

From the inside of the vehicle tip the wing window back and pull it up a ways, then rotate it so that the bottom mounting bracket will slide out of the opening when you slide it all the way up and tip it toward you.

Any questions post 'em up....

LockDoc

[Average Joe]

Sub'd for future reference. Thanks lockdoc for taking the time to write this up!

[LockDoc]

Originally Posted by Average Joe

Sub'd for future reference. Thanks lockdoc for taking the time to write this up!

No Problem.

LockDoc

[72MARIO]

Only thing that should be added is to use 3M green masking tape along the top of the door where the sweeps were removed to protect the paint. I even go as far as to tape the entire window opening. Rather tap the glass on tape than paint

[LockDoc]

Originally Posted by 72MARIO

Only thing that should be added is to use 3M green masking tape along the top of the door where the sweeps were removed to protect the paint. I even go as far as to tape the entire window opening. Rather tap the glass on tape than paint

Good point. I never took the glass out of one that was nice enough to worry about....

LockDoc

[vectorit]

I will say one thing about this.. You guys have more determination that I do on this... I tried rebuilding my wings, and went through all this same head ache.

I ended up buying new complete wing sets.

[highwinger]

Originally Posted by LockDoc

Remove the two ¼” machine screws at the bottom of the "rear" window channel and the ¼” machine screw from the the top of the "rear" window channel by the door latch. You can leave the channel in the door but push it back in the corner.

Roll the door window down and slide it back away from the wing window.

LockDoc

I understand all but this step. I don't see the screws shown in the dwg. Pulling the window back is the part I was missing and caused me to break the glass.

[highwinger]

Also, what sealant is used in the "#2 sash asm lower"? I did notice this may be loose on the vent window.

[highwinger]

Originally Posted by vectorit

I will say one thing about this.. You guys have more determination that I do on this... I tried rebuilding my wings, and went through all this same head ache.

I ended up buying new complete wing sets.

I'm getting there it really seems doable. Whose gaskets did you use?

[LockDoc]

Originally Posted by highwinger

I understand all but this step. I don't see the screws shown in the dwg. Pulling the window back is the part I was missing and caused me to break the glass.

The screws I'm talking about are not shown in the drawing. One would be about where the arrow with the "A" is only it is on the back edge of the door above the latch. The other two are at the bottom of that same channel. They may be under the door panel seal. (See arrows on pic below.)

Originally Posted by highwinger

Also, what sealant is used in the "#2 sash asm lower"? I did notice this may be loose on the vent window.

If it is loose I would just use a little black silicone sealant on it.

Originally Posted by highwinger

I'm getting there it really seems doable. Whose gaskets did you use?

I think he bought the complete wing window assemblies, not just the gaskets.

LockDoc