69 Blazer complete rewire questions

[ampsrampstramps]

I just got done installing the complete American Autowire kit on my 69 Blazer.
I've got a couple questions because there are some loose ends.

Starter and battery link.
Do I leave the main black line, I'm holding, from the battery to the alternator installed? Looks like it is the only place the battery connects to anything. No replacement in the kit.


Alternator and voltage regulator
With this kit I presume I get rid of the voltage regulator.
The red and brown wire plug I'm holding must slide onto the alternator somewhere. Correct? If so, this new plug does not fit the prongs on the alternator, not stock. Does the red wire got where the white was? Leaving the brown wire to go where the blue did?

This is the plug from the voltage regulator to the alternator. This plug I'm holding can go?


Carb/choke wire
When I got the truck this red wire coming off of the carb, which I think is the choke, was spliced onto a starter button independted of the keyed ignition switch. I've read that this can go just about to any 12v source.


Dar she be

[Tom Vogel]

Call AAW tech line. They will help you.

[mtully79]

Originally Posted by Tom Vogel

Call AAW tech line. They will help you.

I called them often during install, very helpful.

[ampsrampstramps]

Thanks for the info guys. Tech support is only M-F!!
Found some more info digging around.
I think I have it all dialed but this morning the battery was dead when I went out...

Here's one for you. With the truck off and the key in my pocket my brake lights go on when I press the brake pedal. Is this normal?

[montsb]

uh, that doesn't happen with my Blazer lol.

[ampsrampstramps]

Originally Posted by montsb

Brake lights work regardless of key being on or off.

Thanks Montsb!

[ampsrampstramps]

Originally Posted by montsb

uh, that doesn't happen with my Blazer lol.

Wait a sec. So when your truck is off, key in pocket, and you press on brake pedal the brake lights do not come on?
Mine do and I have something somewhere that is draining the battery.

[montsb]

Lol. Sorry for the confusion. I thought that is the way they worked so I went outside and tested it. On my blazer, the brake lights do not work when the key is off.

I had a problem with my battery draining also. Turned out the relay I used inline for my electric fans, I hooked up backwards. So the relay was warm even when the key was off. Found the problem and now my battery is strong like bull.

[montsb]

Also, the harness for your alternator, you can take the wires out of that connector and put them in your stock connector so you can use the regulator if you want it that way.

[ampsrampstramps]

Originally Posted by montsb

Also, the harness for your alternator, you can take the wires out of that connector and put them in your stock connector so you can use the regulator if you want it that way.

Thanks again. After doing some homework it looks like my alternator uses an external regulator and I've been running it without the regulator because that's what the new wiring harness suggested.

Without the regulator the volts at idle are 12.4 at battery terminals.
If I swap the wires going into the back of the alternator that should go to the regulator I get 16+ volts at the terminals. And the alternator sounded like it was working harder.

I'm going to wire it for the 16+ with the regulator back on tomorrow and see what happens.

[montsb]

Okay cool! 16 volts is very good. I wonder if your alternator is in full field? That seems pretty high on voltage. But maybe your system just needs to charge. Check your two wire connector to make sure those are hooked up correctly. It will be interesting to see if you have fixed your battery drain with it hooked up this way

[ampsrampstramps]

Originally Posted by montsb

Okay cool! 16 volts is very good. I wonder if your alternator is in full field? That seems pretty high on voltage. But maybe your system just needs to charge. Check your two wire connector to make sure those are hooked up correctly. It will be interesting to see if you have fixed your battery drain with it hooked up this way

The rewire kit from AmericanAutowire requires a internally regulated alternator. It doesn't say anything about this in the instructions. No biggie, alternators are cheap but it would have been nice to avoid scratching my head for hours wondering where these wires go. I put the new alternator in last night and can't remember the reading but it was nowhere near 16. It was a standard reading at idle, didn't spike much when I hit the gas.

Still don't know what the deal is with the rear tail lights coming on when the truck is completely off. Maybe a bad ground. Will check tonight. There doesn't seem to be a drain in the system anymore. With the battery out of the truck and an amp meter running between + and - I get a reading of .09 amps. Shouldn't it be 0? Brand new battery.

[fun in dirt]

Yes you need the internal reg alternator; much simpler. My meter normally reads about 14 volts when truck is running.
From your first pic & question about battery connections...
Positive cable should go to starter stud.
The negative to engine block or frame, and then add cable /strap connecting frame & block together (it's also is a good idea to run small ground from negative to radiator support too).
The brake lights will work even with switch off.

I've put 3 American Autowire kits in different vehicles & love them...good choice! Only thing I've ever had to do, that wasn't in the instructions that came with kit, was add a diode to the brown wire off alternator. It was feeding back & truck would not cut off with key. But found that solution by reading through the Tech Help/ FAQs & Tips on their website.

[ampsrampstramps]

Wow! You did an amazing job on your blazer. Just went through the build. Nice job. You're nuts.
Yup. I've got positive to starter stud. Neg to engine block. Neg running to frame as well.
Thanks for the brake light info.
Man. I've read about that diode on the brown wire as well. Haven't had a problem with it. Hell, if the truck won't turn off, I'll take it as a sign and just keep on driving'.

Was happy with the AAW kit. Seemed like the best choice and all in all wasn't so bad considering I'd never done it before.

Originally Posted by fun in dirt

Yes you need the internal reg alternator; much simpler. My meter normally reads about 14 volts when truck is running.
From your first pic & question about battery connections...
Positive cable should go to starter stud.
The negative to engine block or frame, and then add cable /strap connecting frame & block together (it's also is a good idea to run small ground from negative to radiator support too).
The brake lights will work even with switch off.

I've put 3 American Autowire kits in different vehicles & love them...good choice! Only thing I've ever had to do, that wasn't in the instructions that came with kit, was add a diode to the brown wire off alternator. It was feeding back & truck would not cut off with key. But found that solution by reading through the Tech Help/ FAQs & Tips on their website.