Mystery Part...

[beanious]

Hello everyone, I need help identifying a part for my 72 Chevy K10. What led me to the part was that my truck overheats on the freeway. Well in looking for a way to force more air though the radiator I cam across a part listed as a "lower valance" and or "bumper/radiator deflector", LMC sells the item. My truck does not have this part!!! Not surprising since I do not have fender wells and other miscellaneous parts, ebrake, dome light, horn. The PO stripped many useful and even DMV required items. Can anyone verify that this part exists and that it is actually used to funnel air into the radiator? Any pics of it installed would be awesome. With lower radiator deflector and top radiator covers do you guys think it will make a difference in freeway temps? Thanks for your help!!!!!

[leddzepp]

I assume you have a shroud? Those valances are for 67-68 grilles. 69-72 do not use them.

[teeitup]

that part came on 67-68 chevy and gmcs

[beanious]

Do you guys think that it could fit my 71 K10 (trim?), do you think it would improve the airflow? Ive got an aluminum 4 core radiator and dual electric fans with a shroud. It only overheats on the freeway On 100 + days. Thanks

[teeitup]

I don't think it will fit or help

[71swb4x4]

These trucks cool very well with the stock fan and shroud. Did you have overheating problems before you converted to electric fans?

[truckster]

I'm with 71SWB - we need to figure out why your truck is overheating. It shouldn't overheat at all, but especially not on the freeway.

[geezer#99]

With the fenderwells missing, you've created a huge high pressure ares in your engine bay.
The air from the front of the rad can't flow into this big pressure area. Those areas are equalized.
You need to create a low pressure area below the rad so all that high pressure air has a place to flow to.
You do that with an air dam installed right below the rad. The area behind the dam becomes a low pressure area.
There's one in this link.
Easy to build. I made one from plexiglass once.
http://www.thirdgen.org/forums/cooli...2-airdams.html

[beanious]

Thank you for the suggestion, an airdam is an easy fix and install. I have done so many things over the 5 years I have had the truck to try to help this. Electric fan (helped), new aluminum radiator (helped), waterpump, swapped motors for new GM 350 crate motor, changed to MSD ignition, removed heater core plumbed intake to wp, new thermostat, new hoses, wideband O2 sensor for verifying mixture, wrapped headers, the list goes on. It doesnt boil over or anything, it just starts to get into the 220 range when going up hills in the summer. Thank you guys for your help!

[leddzepp]

Originally Posted by teeitup

I don't think it will fit or help

X2. A stock shroud and OEM fan/clutch have worked for me on every one of these trucks I've owned, including my 402/400 SWB with 3.73's, AC full blast in the dead of SoCal summers. I added a factory coolant recovery kit, but it has yet to boil over.

[beanious]

Thanks for the help uys, any other adeas for improvement out there? Thanks.

[MARKDTN]

If you can't cool a stockish 350 with a 4-row and electric fans, you need to go back to basics and start back up. Putting back inner fenders is a good start. What triggers the fans to come on(and at what temp)? Do they both come on together or are they staggered? What thermostat are you using? I only use GM or Robertshaw t-stats; no cheapie ones for me. Is the a/c on when it gets hotter? Do the fans completely cover the radiator or is there room around them? What is your timing set at?

[beanious]

Ok, so I have:
Air dam
LMC aluminun Top radiator shrouds
Wheel wells
Also install flaps on back of radiator shroud

Any others, I prefer the shotgun blast method.

[67 cst swb]

Does your shroud/electric fans block the air from flowing through the radiator at highway speeds?
Also, did you happen to install a high volume water pump when you replaced your water pump? You may be running the coolant too fast through the radiator and not giving it enough time in the radiator to cool off.
Is your radiator a copper/brass OE style radiator or a newer replacement one that has an aluminum core with plastic tanks?

[beanious]

I do not know how to tell if the shroud blocks air at freeway speed. It is a dual fan and it covers the entire radiato (classic heartbeat). My pump is a summit stocker, the old rad was stock brass 4 core, new is a all aluminum 4 core.

[GASoline71]

Those electrics pushers or pullers?

Gary

[Max1775]

Are the fans rotating in the proper direction?

[67 cst swb]

Is it this one?
http://www.classicheartbeat.com/cata...n%20Shroud.htm

[beanious]

Ok, so that part is the shroud I have. The fans are pulling the air in the correct direction and my t-stat is a stant. Also my timing is 8 deg, Ive built SBCs, no brainer. I run 50/50 antifreeze.

[Andy4639]

If everything is working correctley you shouldn't have any problems at highway speed cooling. If that in fact is your problem then you have a restriction some place in the cooling system.
Jack the front of the truck up as safely as you can and get all the air out of the system. Make sure your bottom hose has the spring inside it to keep it from colapsing. Also...

[67 cst swb]

Originally Posted by beanious

Ok, so that part is the shroud I have.

My GUESS is that that solid shroud is blocking the air flow at highway speeds. The air is being forced to go through the holes for the electric fans and the fans turning at a certain speed may be slowing that air down also.
Just my .02 cents

[beanious]

I was thinking about taking the shroud off, drilling some holes in it and putting those flaps to cover them. Another note, since Im running a TH350 I am at like 3200 RPMs at 65. Terrible

[beanious]

Thanks for thebgreat advice so far, really liked the foam idea!

[beanious]

Any other ideas?

[beanious]

Any other ideas?