replacing ''A" arm bushings &balljoint pics - The 1947 - Present Chevrolet & GMC Truck Message Board Network

ebfabman · 03-19-2002, 09:57 PM

remove A arm and remove balljoint

remove old bushings & shaft

disassembled

screw in one bushing

screw shaft into bushing

screw in 2nd bushing

next the balljoint

use the grade 8 bolts

install back on truck

tighten everything up & grease

Some tips. Screw in the first bushing all the way into the A arm. then after greasing the shaft, screw it all the way into the bushing, then unscrew it out one turn. Then screw the other bushing into the A arm. Snug them down good. I have seen the bushings tack welded to the A arm, just be sure to tack them so they can be removed later.
There may be other ways to do this, but this is how I've done it over the years. If anyone has anything to add please feel free.....eb

daveo68 · 03-20-2002, 12:14 AM

That is great we need more info like that on this board. I know this will help me when I start on my suspension. Keep up the good work.
Dave

------------------
68 C-10 Custom LWB
307 V8
Three-on-the-tree
Lexington,NC
davideowens@lexcominc.net

Spoof · 03-20-2002, 12:39 AM

Very timely, I'm about to do my balljoints. Ordered moog uppers, one was missing the hardware, called parts plce which ordered a new one, same part different hardware, missing bolts. Moog has some serious quality control probs.

I wasn't planning on doing my A arm shaft, but prolly idler and pitman and lowers. Is there a test for the state of your A arm bushings?

------------------
71 GMC 2500 Custom Camper
71 GMC Suburban 1500 Super Custom
71 Chevrolet 1500 Donor
http://www.able-bravo.com

Brad69 · 03-20-2002, 12:56 AM

Can we get Josh or one of the admins to move this to the "Tech Tips" or "Tech articles" section?

jostrans68 · 03-20-2002, 01:01 AM

After 20 yrs parts experience its not moog you should see the way this stuff is handled at the Independent Whse's I watched the guys throwing parts to a guy ona ladder 4 out of 10 missed,The mfg's cant control this....
My 2 cents

------------------
68 c20 in progress 327 TH400 tach dash Disc Brakes and soon 3.90 rear gears.. have many new parts now just need the time..... Sound Familar

imdarren · 03-20-2002, 01:02 AM

eb, Thanks soooo much for posting that kind of stuff! It took extra time out of your project to do that, but newbies like me can't get enough of that sort of thing! THANK YOU!! Darren

------------------
Darren
Washougal, Washington
darrengale67@hotmail.com
NOT the NetZero e-mail.

1972 GMC C1500 (Bone Stock)

Saving / Looking for a 72 3/4 Ton 4X4 Automatic with little or no rust.

ebfabman · 03-20-2002, 01:53 AM

You are certainly welcome Darren, but really I just like playing with my camera....LOL

70chevy · 03-20-2002, 08:15 AM

Thanks for all of your time to explain with pictures. I am in the process of doing just that. Where did you order the bushings?

Great work.....

slam33 · 03-20-2002, 10:14 AM

you don't want to do the final torque on the shafts untill you get the truck back on the ground. I put jack stands under the bottom a-arms and load the suspention. Then you do the final torqueing on the shafts

------------------
71 basic C-10 350. The only option is the rust.No nothing on it, but thats all about to change. <A HREF="http://www.geocities.com/stevemau/slam33page.html?1004806705410

" TARGET=_blank>http://www.geocities.com/stevemau/slam33page.html?1004806705410

</A>

69 longhorn · 03-20-2002, 10:52 AM

all pretty well covered ebfabman,the only thing that I can add.....have plenty of beer on hand! .......69 longhorn

70 Jimmy · 03-20-2002, 09:06 PM

Has anyone else noticed that the bolts in they're ball joint kit were metric. Damn, I got metric bolts on my truck!

------------------
"KEEP IT DOWN!"
70 Jimmy 454 2wd
56 GMC Big Window

03-19-2002, 09:57 PM	#1
ebfabman Registered User Join Date: Nov 2001 Location: Concord, NC Posts: 2,488	replacing ''A" arm bushings &balljoint pics remove A arm and remove balljoint remove old bushings & shaft disassembled screw in one bushing screw shaft into bushing screw in 2nd bushing next the balljoint use the grade 8 bolts install back on truck tighten everything up & grease Some tips. Screw in the first bushing all the way into the A arm. then after greasing the shaft, screw it all the way into the bushing, then unscrew it out one turn. Then screw the other bushing into the A arm. Snug them down good. I have seen the bushings tack welded to the A arm, just be sure to tack them so they can be removed later. There may be other ways to do this, but this is how I've done it over the years. If anyone has anything to add please feel free.....eb

03-20-2002, 12:14 AM	#2
daveo68 Senior Member Join Date: Dec 2001 Location: Lexington,NC Posts: 503	That is great we need more info like that on this board. I know this will help me when I start on my suspension. Keep up the good work. Dave ------------------ 68 C-10 Custom LWB 307 V8 Three-on-the-tree Lexington,NC davideowens@lexcominc.net __________________ 68 C-10 Custom LWB 307 V8 Lexington,NC davideowens@lexcominc.net God Bless America

03-20-2002, 12:39 AM	#3
Spoof Registered User Join Date: Jul 2000 Location: Victoria,BC, Canada Posts: 1,300	Very timely, I'm about to do my balljoints. Ordered moog uppers, one was missing the hardware, called parts plce which ordered a new one, same part different hardware, missing bolts. Moog has some serious quality control probs. I wasn't planning on doing my A arm shaft, but prolly idler and pitman and lowers. Is there a test for the state of your A arm bushings? ------------------ 71 GMC 2500 Custom Camper 71 GMC Suburban 1500 Super Custom 71 Chevrolet 1500 Donor http://www.able-bravo.com __________________ 71 GMC 1500 LWB

03-20-2002, 12:56 AM	#4
Brad69 Crash Test Dummy Join Date: Feb 2000 Location: Wilton, Ca. USA Posts: 201	Can we get Josh or one of the admins to move this to the "Tech Tips" or "Tech articles" section? __________________ The more hair i lose, the more head i get. Build Sheet: 1969 C-10 short fleet Constructed by taking a 3/4 ton rolling frame from one truck, adding a rust free AC Cab from another, then a bed from another, 1/2 ton front suspension & brakes from another,add in one Goodwrench crate 350, painted DuPont Arctic White,and driven daily.

03-20-2002, 01:01 AM	#5
jostrans68 Jostrans68 Join Date: Mar 2001 Location: Bloomington indiana Posts: 1,182	After 20 yrs parts experience its not moog you should see the way this stuff is handled at the Independent Whse's I watched the guys throwing parts to a guy ona ladder 4 out of 10 missed,The mfg's cant control this.... My 2 cents ------------------ 68 c20 in progress 327 TH400 tach dash Disc Brakes and soon 3.90 rear gears.. have many new parts now just need the time..... Sound Familar __________________ [CGTW Member former 67-72 now with a 96 silverado

03-20-2002, 01:02 AM	#6
imdarren Registered User Join Date: Oct 2001 Location: SW Washington Posts: 1,006	eb, Thanks soooo much for posting that kind of stuff! It took extra time out of your project to do that, but newbies like me can't get enough of that sort of thing! THANK YOU!! Darren ------------------ Darren Washougal, Washington darrengale67@hotmail.com NOT the NetZero e-mail. 1972 GMC C1500 (Bone Stock) Saving / Looking for a 72 3/4 Ton 4X4 Automatic with little or no rust. __________________ Washington State 1967 Chevy C10 LWB Rodstoration In Progress. 1972 K20 Cheyenne Super

03-20-2002, 01:53 AM	#7
ebfabman Registered User Join Date: Nov 2001 Location: Concord, NC Posts: 2,488	You are certainly welcome Darren, but really I just like playing with my camera....LOL

03-20-2002, 08:15 AM	#8
70chevy Registered User Join Date: Aug 2001 Location: Cherryville, NC Posts: 147	Thanks for all of your time to explain with pictures. I am in the process of doing just that. Where did you order the bushings? Great work..... __________________ Ken Smith 99 C5 Torch Red Coupe 85 Chevy Candy Apple 70 Chevy 1/2 in process.Semi-gloss black powdercoated frame & suspension, disc brakes up front, 3" drop spindle(Beltech) 5 lug 3.73 rearend, ZZ4, Sanderson headers, 700R4, Air Ride system, Summitt 16 gal fuel cell, Holly mech. fuel pump,

03-20-2002, 10:14 AM	#9
slam33 Registered User Join Date: Aug 2001 Location: Long Beach, Ca Posts: 1,432	you don't want to do the final torque on the shafts untill you get the truck back on the ground. I put jack stands under the bottom a-arms and load the suspention. Then you do the final torqueing on the shafts ------------------ 71 basic C-10 350. The only option is the rust.No nothing on it, but thats all about to change. <A HREF="http://www.geocities.com/stevemau/slam33page.html?1004806705410 " TARGET=_blank>http://www.geocities.com/stevemau/slam33page.html?1004806705410 </A> __________________ 71 LWB 350/350still working on it but it's going tp be sweet. www.geocities.com/stevemau/slam33page.html " TARGET=_blank>http://www.geocities.com/stevemau/slam33page.html?1004806705410 </A>

03-20-2002, 10:52 AM	#10
69 longhorn Registered User Join Date: Aug 2001 Location: rock island,il,usa Posts: 5,382	all pretty well covered ebfabman,the only thing that I can add.....have plenty of beer on hand! .......69 longhorn __________________ http://community.webshots.com/user/hotrodhorn

03-20-2002, 09:06 PM	#11
70 Jimmy aka Crusher, Crushergmc Join Date: Mar 2000 Location: Oregon Posts: 1,834	Has anyone else noticed that the bolts in they're ball joint kit were metric. Damn, I got metric bolts on my truck! ------------------ "KEEP IT DOWN!" 70 Jimmy 454 2wd 56 GMC Big Window __________________ "KEEP IT DOWN!" 70 Jimmy 454 2wd 56 GMC Big Window "It's funny till someone gets hurt, then it's freakin' hilarious"

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